ABS

HI, A MATE OF MINE IS SELLING A FLAT TRI-AXLE WHICH HAS JUST PASSED ITS MOT, ITS VERY TIDY. THE THING IS IT DOES NT HAVE ABS :confused: WOULD I RUN INTO MAJOR PROBLEMS MOVING STEEL WITH IT ■■? OR IS IT JUST NOT WORTH THE HASSLE■■? ANY REPLIES MUCH APPRECIATED, THANK YOU. :slight_smile:

more likely to have problems when empty, but not serious ones, you’ll get used to it. when it’s loaded, it’ll be fine.

CHEERS LIMEYPHIL, THATS WHAT I WAS HOPING TO HEAR, THANKS AGAIN. :wink:

When you say it doesn’t have ABS, do you mean it doesn’t have an ABS/EBS connector, or does it not have any kind of ABS at all? The reason I ask is that (as I understand it), many older trailers do have ABS even though they don’t have the ABS/EBS connector - in this case the ABS system gets its power from a pin on the 24S connector.

Either way it doesn’t really matter, people managed fine in the days before ABS. You’ll just need to be careful when empty.

It would have to be very cheap/clean to tempt me though when you can get good newer ones with full ABS/EBS for next to nothing anyway.

Paul

sampopmat:
HI, A MATE OF MINE IS SELLING A FLAT TRI-AXLE WHICH HAS JUST PASSED ITS MOT, ITS VERY TIDY. THE THING IS IT DOES NT HAVE ABS :confused: WOULD I RUN INTO MAJOR PROBLEMS MOVING STEEL WITH IT ■■? OR IS IT JUST NOT WORTH THE HASSLE■■? ANY REPLIES MUCH APPRECIATED, THANK YOU. :slight_smile:

Go for it Chap ABS is just another load of aggro to contend with when it plays up, if its tested & tidy I would’nt hesitate, just go steady on the middle pedal when its empty!

What everyone else said, it may have ABS but not the plug (in that case, it will have a green light alongside the white front marker) Or if not it will probably have a load sensing valve which, if set up right, is equally as good as all the modern stuff IMO, also easier to maintain.

The advantages of ABS brakes (anti-lock braking system), are just as the meaning of their acronym implies, they eliminate or greatly reduce the possibility of brake lock up and therefore provide a better chance of steering out of trouble.

Conventional hydraulic brakes work by using a cylinder (actuator), which squeezes brake calipers together around the wheel’s rotor when the brake petal is depressed. Difficulties arise with these conventional brakes if the road is slick and the driver executes a panic stop. Under these conditions the wheels may lock up and the tires run the risk of losing their grip. When tires lose their grip of the road, there is a good chance that the car may go into an uncontrolled spin. This is why drivers in older vehicles have been taught in the past to pump brakes when on icy roads.

ABS brakes were designed to combat the problem of tire lock up and uncontrolled spins. Since brakes are most effective at slowing the car at a point just before wheel lock up, a system that provides for wheel braking while preventing wheel lock up is very desirable.

Anti-lock brakes do just this by using a computer processor to monitor and control the application of the brakes. At braking, the processor monitors rpm and braking pressure on each of the vehicle’s wheels. With this information, measured amounts of pressure are sent to each wheel in the form of hydraulic pulses of pressure to the calipers. These pulses achieve the desired braking pressure without allowing the wheels to lock up.

bloody hell mate, you have too much time on your hands :smiley:

chaversdad:
bloody hell mate, you have too much time on your hands :smiley:

na, he’s just copied and pasted it from here and is using Tnet to build backlinks for his own site ( in his sig)

scottie0011:

chaversdad:
bloody hell mate, you have too much time on your hands :smiley:

na, he’s just copied and pasted it from here and is using Tnet to build backlinks for his own site ( in his sig)

BUSTED :exclamation: :exclamation: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: