Next week doing a week for Bibbys. Been told it is an 08 plate rigid but not sure what type. Might be MAN. Has an auto box, which I have never used before.
Are they ‘idiot proof’ & just a question of selecting correct mode (auto) and of you go. Have been told to use manual when crawling in traffic & avoid auto reverse as it takes off a bit. !!!
I realise not all autos are the same, but would appreciate any pointers/advice etc. Thanks 
Piece of you know what.
Select drive or reverse depending on what you wanna do.
Reversing think its more to do with the fact people reversing a manual are using the clutch to help control the speed of reversing, with no clutch people end up juddering it, its just a case of getting used to it.
Manual in traffic i depends i guess on how heavy you are and how good the automatic is, found sometimes with MAN when its heavy selects wrong gears at times, but generally not a problem.
On MAN/ERF it is a knob in the middle which you twist. You have N, D and R with a picture of a tortoise next to the D and R which mean crawler for D and crawler for R. When reversing select the tortoise next to R and it won’t shoot off like a rocket. Don’t bother using manual in traffic.
On Volvo it is a gear knob attached to the seat. From front to back is Reverse, Neutral, Auto, Manual. On the right of the gear knob is a button for up/down in manual. At rear of selector bit is a square with E/P on. Press it when you’re going up hill and it’ll go into “Power” mode and allow you to rev higher before changing gear. You’'ll see a “P” on the dashboard where the “E” was.
Renault. All done on a stalk on the right of the steering column. Can’t remember OTTOMH how you select reverse with that one.
youll probably have 2 settings for reverse, normal and one with a turtle next to it, thats the slow reverse, use it if you need to.
also at junctions etc you need more time to get out of them as the auto takes sometime to kick in and get you moving.
though for long journeys up windy roads etc its pretty good.
Using turtle reverse is more controlable, when pulling of at junctions its best to go to manual shift for a quicker up take from the junction, if I’m stuck in slow traffic i us turtle drive and just let it tick over nicely.
Well thats my advice for you Keano1… 
All the best… 
leave it in auto all the time but when you pull away don’t try racing it,
the drivers that complain that half way onto a roundabout it changes gear are the ones that floor it, if you just lightly press on the gas it will hold the gear longer.(more revs = next gear)
Lose speed earlier (as in roundabouts) and ‘plan’ for a gap. Try to keep the vehicle moving.
If you have to stop. Stop short. Which then gives you an area in which to accelerate into a gap.
I’ve just had a couple of days driving manuals. 
Had almost forgotten how to do it. 
mobi:
leave it in auto all the time but when you pull away don’t try racing it,
the drivers that complain that half way onto a roundabout it changes gear are the ones that floor it, if you just lightly press on the gas it will hold the gear longer.(more revs = next gear)
Have I read this correctly,I think the opposite to be correct,just as in any auto,car or truck.By flooring the gas pedal,it gives you maximum revs in that gear and accelerating quickly,which is how I take off from roundabouts or junctions.if you poodle along at low revs it changes up sooner but at low speed.
On the MAN autos we have,there is the select button on the floor,then you can use the button on the end of the r/h stalk to select between auto or manual,you know which is which bucause it’s displayed on the dashboard.
In auto you just drive as you would,(or I would) an auto.In manual,you click the stalk up to change up and click it down to change down.You always know what gear you are in,either in auto or manual mode,it tells you on the dashboard display.
Just like above, but when going for a roundabout, slow down more, and when you see a gap approaching, tap the throttle to make the box understand you want to move, it will change gear then, and not when you’re trying to pull out. That works when not stopping.
I leave my ZF autobox (DAF) in auto 99% of the time. The lighter you press the go peddle, the smoother it is, it changes up earlier. Really press it, and the engine winds up further, and the changes can feel more jerky.
You will learn how that box works. Do be aware that when coupling, you will need to press the throttle, you can’t let the clutch out and expect it to idle back, just do it gently. I’ve been in this unit 3 months now, and I still occasionally jerk backwards if I’ve hit the peddle a touch too hard.
Some of them have a switch, some have buttons, if it’s only got 3 buttons, you need to hold the button for several seconds to get the crawl mode.
if you want a laugh ask the company for training
Thanks for the great advice folks.
I should imagine It’ll feel strange having nothing to do with my clutch foot & left hand (gear changing). 
Thanks again for all your help
bestbooties:
Have I read this correctly,I think the opposite to be correct,just as in any auto,car or truck.By flooring the gas pedal,it gives you maximum revs in that gear and accelerating quickly,which is how I take off from roundabouts or junctions.if you poodle along at low revs it changes up sooner but at low speed.
With our DAF’s if you floor it out of a junction/roundabout it launchs of like a rabbit for 10 yds in 1st/2nd then changes up too many gears and then decides it needs to be back in a lower gear by which time all momentum is lost and it struggles to pull away making you look like an idiot. Only times I use manual in them is on tight uphill turns when running at 44t which can confuse the box as it always seems to change up too soon and you grind to a halt.
Far better to just ease the throttle in nice and gently, same with slow speed movements and reversing - can take a while to get the feel but once you’ve got used to it there are no differences to using a manual box.
I have been driving a MAN auto for a year now and for me it’s the best thing since night heaters.
Its hard to explain fully as you mostly will learn by doing it but here are a few pointers.
If you stop at a junction always use the park brake. You can’t hold it on the clutch, so put the brake on and leave it in drive, but keep your foot off the loud pedal ‘till you are ready to move. Then floor it. If you are likely to be stationary for some time (like at roadworks) you are supposed to put it in neutral — just be sure to remember you did, before you release the brake.
When approaching a roundabout or such, try to not have to stop (good driving practice anyway) — if you slow down a bit more than usual, then just blip the throttle, it will change down ready to go. If you don’t do this it will stay in 8 or 9 and, when you want to go — it won’t do anything and you will have to stop completely.
Use cruise as much as possible and let the computer do its work. Last week, with 24 tonnes on the trailer, I was heading up Birdlip — no worries here about that awkward ratio downchange — they are all perfect with minimum loss of momentum. I was caught out at the Air balloon roundabout ‘cos I was going too fast.
When you are using cruise control the exhaust brake will cut in with a down-change if your speed gets over 5kph too high. This can be annoying on long hills with it changing up and down so I usually go to manual and stay in 11 or 10 and let the exhaust brake hold me back.
When you come towards the end of a dual track at 56mph, force a down change, so that the exhaust brake is more effective. Do it in plenty of time though because it takes 5 seconds to revert to auto ready to change down for the bends.
With a heavy load — on an undulating road — you may find manual is better. The computer can’t see what’s coming, so it will make inappropriate changes.
You will find slow reverse the one you mostly use. Only use fast for a long run. With a bit of practice you can be as precise as any manual box driver.
Slow forward is limited to about 5kph so is only for things like de-coupling a trailer or very tight manoeuvres.
One annoyance is that it won’t let you change from forward to reverse (or vice versa) if you are moving. You have to stop completely.
On my truck (it may not be universal) I find that it gets jerky reversing down slopes, so I tend to roll back in neutral. I also find that you get a stupid warning saying “Clutch overload — change down” when I am in 1st gear shunting in a tight spot — well it IS only a computer.
Above all — relax, take your time, and enjoy it.
Remember ,how you use the accelerator pedal has an effect on the gearchanging characteristics.Experience only will teach you. Remember an auto box cant see hills but it knows if its on one (applies to merc at least) and although they sound a little complex at first they do remove alot of effort from an already stressfull job.
15 speed roadranger sounds simpler 
15 speed roadranger sounds simpler
So you try to explain how to change down from 5th to 4th on a steep hill.
Santa:
I have been driving a MAN auto for a year now and for me it’s the best thing since night heaters.Its hard to explain fully as you mostly will learn by doing it but here are a few pointers.
If you stop at a junction always use the park brake. You can’t hold it on the clutch, so put the brake on and leave it in drive, but keep your foot off the loud pedal ‘till you are ready to move. Then floor it. If you are likely to be stationary for some time (like at roadworks) you are supposed to put it in neutral — just be sure to remember you did, before you release the brake.
When approaching a roundabout or such, try to not have to stop (good driving practice anyway) — if you slow down a bit more than usual, then just blip the throttle, it will change down ready to go. If you don’t do this it will stay in 8 or 9 and, when you want to go — it won’t do anything and you will have to stop completely.
Use cruise as much as possible and let the computer do its work. Last week, with 24 tonnes on the trailer, I was heading up Birdlip — no worries here about that awkward ratio downchange — they are all perfect with minimum loss of momentum. I was caught out at the Air balloon roundabout ‘cos I was going too fast.
When you are using cruise control the exhaust brake will cut in with a down-change if your speed gets over 5kph too high. This can be annoying on long hills with it changing up and down so I usually go to manual and stay in 11 or 10 and let the exhaust brake hold me back.
When you come towards the end of a dual track at 56mph, force a down change, so that the exhaust brake is more effective. Do it in plenty of time though because it takes 5 seconds to revert to auto ready to change down for the bends.
With a heavy load — on an undulating road — you may find manual is better. The computer can’t see what’s coming, so it will make inappropriate changes.
You will find slow reverse the one you mostly use. Only use fast for a long run. With a bit of practice you can be as precise as any manual box driver.
Slow forward is limited to about 5kph so is only for things like de-coupling a trailer or very tight manoeuvres.
One annoyance is that it won’t let you change from forward to reverse (or vice versa) if you are moving. You have to stop completely.
On my truck (it may not be universal) I find that it gets jerky reversing down slopes, so I tend to roll back in neutral. I also find that you get a stupid warning saying “Clutch overload — change down” when I am in 1st gear shunting in a tight spot — well it IS only a computer.
Above all — relax, take your time, and enjoy it.
I reckon this post is about the best one if not a bit over the top…by the way as truckers we have a skill when it comes to making something thats easy sound difficult…
BUT here is my view read the above post but its a bit like when you first experience ■■■ no amount of advice is good enough because no matter what one persons opinions are you can bet your life you will find the buttons your own way Dont worry its a piece of cake enjoy
Santa:
15 speed roadranger sounds simpler
So you try to explain how to change down from 5th to 4th on a steep hill.
Hard to explain… easy to do I think they’re like a semi auto anyway, seeing as the clutch is only used for starting, and they’re just about unbreakable.
hitch:
if you want a laugh ask the company for training
It’s strange that companies don’t offer training to drivers on new truck they’ve spent a fortune on, Especially when some dealers have dedicated trainers that they’ll send to your company for free.
We got a trainer from Duffields for a day, even though we didn’t buy the truck from them. Although you can drive in auto, just press the pedals, it’s amazing how much more there is to it when you get shown by somebody who knows his stuff.
Better then getting from Cafe talk.
It’s just a shame that some drivers won’t listen and completly ignore what the bloke had to say. Sadly we’ve got one,
P.S. I was always a bit anti auto boxes, but I love the Ishift, (the Only aouto box I ahve experience of) As somebody said it takes that part of the workload from you and leaves more time to concertate on the road. The only time I go to manual is climbing a hill and having to overtake a cyclist or something similar.
i got my first short in a semi auto scanny 94d today
my god its soo bad in auto mode, soo many times it basically stopped when pulling out of junctions or roundabouts, spent most of the day in manual but even that was bad, telling me to put the lcutch in and then it eventually changes gear lol
first time at 3663 aswell, wasnt that bad tbh, got let lose on my own, 16 drops, a few were a nightmare but 10 drops were just dropping the cages off and leaving them.