Please help...loading and unloading

Hi all,

Great site, but i please seek advice.

Ive passed my class 2 test, great, I can driver a rigid, great, Ive got a few agency jobs lined up, great. But I’m worried about driving the vehicle loaded and unloading. Any advice would be grateful, is there something I should keep a eye out for, what to use, how to use it, Whats used to secure the load? especially pallets, :confused:

For a palletised load if its stable and not particularly high and in a box or curtain sider then you dont have to secure them.

Some give you a bar to put accross the back (this is more likley the case with cages) or a strap. With these they should be already on the load when you pick it up (assuming you get the wagon loaded) so look how they are attached and repeat.

For flatbed loads you will use ratchet straps or ropes. For the ropes learn how to tie a dolly knot.

To use a rathet strap throw over the load and hook onto a STRONG point on each side of the wagon. These can put 2000kg / 4000lb of force onto the load.

Open it up all the way (there is a centre handle on the handles that pulls out of let you move the handle without ratcheting it). Insert the webbing through the slot on the centre barrel. Pull tight. Ratchet the thing tight using the handle.

To release pull the centre handle (its the ovbious bit with a pring on it) and push it as high as it will go. This disengages the lock.

To unload they will probably give you a tail lift (make sure it works before leaving the yard!!!) and make sure if it needs a seperate key they give it to you. There are many different types with some wierd and wonderful controls so ask another driver to show you.

Alternativley they could ask you to hand ball it, pull upto a dock (open the doors before you put it on the dock!) or park in the yard and pull the curtains back and let a forklift do it.

As for driving a loaded vehicle just take longer to do anything. I driver artics with close to 24t of sand on the back in bags. You need a lot more for breaking with a loaded vehicle (and will shoot the load if you slam the brakes on) will need a lot more time to accelearte so gaps need to be bigger. Take the corners slower.

Best advice ever given = if you lose time and are running late accept it. You’re never going to get that time back and rushing will not help you.

Another handy piece of advice is that straps in the toolbox hold nothing in place, if you are uncertain about something and have a spare strap the two minutes extra in making sure might save a whole load of trouble caused by a load shifting.

Obviously there’s no point doing a spiderman job over the whole lot, just if something is doubtful it’s best to adopt the belt and braces apporach.

Hopefully on agency work you’l be mostly on pallets, so not to difficult to load securely. I would often put a ■■■■■■■■ the rear pallets to stop rearward movement and a headache when I open the doors. You can cross the straps hanging of the roof.

Telling somebody how to secure a load in here is difficult, the best thing to do is tell people you not moved a load like this and ask for advice. being shown is easier.
You’ll normally find if you are moving something unusual the people at the loading point understand how it should be loaded so will give you a hand or at least thier drivers will know.

The other thing to be aware of is load distribution, with some pallets it’s better to have the first one at the front in the centre and then load normally behind, but it depends on the truck and the wieght of the load.

Most of it’s commonsense and experience.

Thanks to all

Get yourself on Container work,then you dont have to worry about things like that :wink: :smiley:

Sockpuppet:
For a palletised load if its stable and not particularly high and in a box or curtain sider then you dont have to secure them.

Having regard to the changed definition of an insecure load, is your comment about the curtainsider correct? (That’s a question, not an opinion.)

BTW, the rest was very good advice indeed.

Having regard to the changed definition of an insecure load, is your comment about the curtainsider correct?

If you’re in any doubt at all, strap the load down using the internal straps or ratchet straps. It was drummed into me very early on that 'the curtains are there to - keep the dirt off the load and - make the truck look nice. That’s it. I’ve seen enough loads come through the curtains to realise that you shouldn’t ever rely on them to retain the load if it shifts.

That said there are some loads I’ve had experience of - aluminium ingots and steel coils particularly - that if they decide to shift, there’s nothing you can do. Just hope nobody’s standing in the way when it comes out.

Or as the bloke discovered yesterday. Carrying talcum powder on pallets can be very hazardous :stuck_out_tongue:

It is probably the worst load I have ever carried. Much safer in a silo tank :smiley:

If steel - USE CHAINS with ratchet binders - dont let them fob you off with “straps will do”

Sockpuppet:
To use a rathet strap throw over the load and hook onto a STRONG point on each side of the wagon. These can put 2000kg / 4000lb of force onto the load.

When using ratchet straps in a box with rails down the side walls, don’t attach the ratchet straps to the rails at the point where the strap crosses the back of the load, as it will just pull the rails off the wall.

You must reach down the side of the load and attach the straps at least a foot forward of the back of the load (preferably more), so that the strap is pulling more in line with the rail than perpendicular to it.

As nobody has mentioned it, you will no doubt be expected to use a pallet truck . Common sense and logic should prevail but always be aware of:-

1, how far from the und of the taillift etc. you are before manouvering

2, try and get the flatest ground you can , 1 ton on a pallet that decides its making a bolt for it could seriously ruin your day (or someone elses)

3, If a rear pallet is stuck don’t try and be he-man and remove by brute force, your hands slip and you fly out the back with a 5 ft drop to concrete following.(it has been done many times and is still being done today)

4, Ensure that everone or thing is clear of the taillift before operating, including your toes (Ouch it smarts believe me even with toe tectors on)

5, If in doubt drop the truck think about it then have another crack at it.

6, last but not least always remember to switch the internal controls off before dropping the door and folding the tail lift up as getting the PEE taking at an RDC hurts your feelings :smiley: :smiley: :wink: