Opinions please.

UK PROFESSIONAL DRIVERS FORUMS THE UK PROFESSIONAL DRIVERS FORUM (INTERACTIVE)
81

Punchy Dan:
Forget CF on this thread wait until Bking chips in :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

May God have mercy upon us all :smiley:

82

Punchy Dan:
I am surprised no one has commented yet on drilling normal aly wheels out to take the retro nut . :laughing:

You can do this on certain wheels, with the correct tooling, but don’t try did at home as the effect can be a bit wobbly…if they fit at all. :grimacing: :grimacing:

83

caledoniandream:

Punchy Dan:
I am surprised no one has commented yet on drilling normal aly wheels out to take the retro nut . :laughing:

You can do this on certain wheels, with the correct tooling, but don’t try did at home as the effect can be a bit wobbly…if they fit at all. :grimacing: :grimacing:

Depends what weapons you’ve got at home :wink:

84

switchlogic:
Sorry for being ‘rediculous’. :smiley:

Nevermind showing off your spellings to the class, apparantly you look like a stobbie spotter. Not even an open spotter, a “closet” spotter.

85

James the cat:

switchlogic:
Sorry for being ‘rediculous’. :smiley:

Nevermind showing off your spellings to the class, apparantly you look like a stobbie spotter. Not even an open spotter, a “closet” spotter.

Here, you have a winking smiley too in the absence of a blowy kiss one :wink:

God speed x

86

switchlogic:

James the cat:

switchlogic:
Sorry for being ‘rediculous’. :smiley:

Nevermind showing off your spellings to the class, apparantly you look like a stobbie spotter. Not even an open spotter, a “closet” spotter.

Here, you have a winking smiley too in the absence of a blowy kiss one :wink:

God speed x

:laughing: x

87

You lads really could do with upping your put down game btw :smiley:

88

switchlogic:
You lads really could do with upping your put down game btw :smiley:

A small mouse and I’m feeling very lazy

89

James the cat:

switchlogic:
You lads really could do with upping your put down game btw :smiley:

A small mouse and I’m feeling very lazy

Wouldn’t have any effect anyway, 7 years on YouTube tends to create an incredibly thick skin :smiley:

90

Punchy Dan:
I am surprised no one has commented yet on drilling normal aly wheels out to take the retro nut . :laughing:

Possible with a magnetic broacher but I’d just flog them on ebay rather than risk trashing them completely.

91

switchlogic:

James the cat:

switchlogic:
You lads really could do with upping your put down game btw :smiley:

A small mouse and I’m feeling very lazy

Wouldn’t have any effect anyway, 7 years on YouTube tends to create an incredibly thick skin :smiley:

Good for you little mouse :laughing: I wouldn’t want to break that skin. I’m not a savage.

92

Punchy Dan:
you don’t press the studs out ,just hit them square on with a sledge hammer

If the hub’s off anyway might as well use a press.

You can use a portapower to press out in situ if you park parallel close to a tough concrete wall.

93

As far as the OP goes. Looking at the condition of the half shaft bolts it looks like the truck is pretty new, if not brand new, which sort of implies it’s come from the factory/ dealers like that.

Now my opinion of some dealer’s workshops is not very high but honestly I think, if it wasn’t how it should be, there was plenty of opportunity for someone to spot it even before the PDI.

94

Own Account Driver:

Punchy Dan:
you don’t press the studs out ,just hit them square on with a sledge hammer

If the hub’s off anyway might as well use a press.

You can use a portapower to press out in situ if you park parallel close to a tough concrete wall.

As above, a press is always preferable to smashing them out with ‘ammer’…
Then… if you want to re use, the ends are not all bent over and fubared… :grimacing:

95

caledoniandream:
To help the dreamers why there is thread to the end of the nut, very simple:

  • first of all, if you want to use these wheels on a vehicle with longer studs, you need the whole nut threaded. The wheels have larger studs holes as normal to allow for the sleeve. So you cannot fit them on any vehicle with the standard nuts.
  • Second reason is very logical there need to be some space for adjustment, e.g. When you torque the wheels, the sleeve doesn’t go complex against the flange but is a couple of mm of.

Many drivers on here have driven with these wheelnuts without knowing it, as most have a end cap in there.
The system of sleeved nuts is about 30 years in common use, and safes the very high expense for unnecessary exchanging studs, which have to be changed back of you use steelies again.
For owners is wise to use silicon grease on the sleeves and on the flange to avoid corrosion. (Never use copaslip as bringing in a 3rd metal increases the corrosion)

A little bit disappointed in the fitter, if not sure take it apart and have a look, probably to cold to get his backside in gear.
With loosing one nut, everything would have been clear, put it back together and on you go, only one expensive hour lost where the wheels didn’t turn.

Is it really so bleedin difficult to say that if you want to use longer studs then you’ll need the full thread nuts.Also bearing in mind that not threaded right to the end doesn’t mean not enough for any ‘adjustment’.While the things are supposedly mainly used to allow shorter studs anyway.Bearing in mind as I said the confusion obviously,predictably,potentially, caused,as in this case,with standard nuts being used on too short studs.Or that one day the confusion might be the reverse in someone saying it’s ok no problem they are tube nuts on short studs when they actually aren’t. :unamused:

96

AndrewG:

Own Account Driver:

Punchy Dan:
you don’t press the studs out ,just hit them square on with a sledge hammer

If the hub’s off anyway might as well use a press.

You can use a portapower to press out in situ if you park parallel close to a tough concrete wall.

As above, a press is always preferable to smashing them out with ‘ammer’…
Then… if you want to re use, the ends are not all bent over and fubared… :grimacing:

Nope ,I’ve always used the hammer , and no bell-ends :stuck_out_tongue:

97

Carryfast:

switchlogic:
Christ, is there anything you don’t have a contrary opinion on? The way you see it is irrelevant Quite frankly.

No not a ‘contrary’ opinion at all.I thought you said it’s a matter of ‘choice’ either change the studs ‘or’ use those.My ‘preference’ ( choice ) would be change the studs.In which case you could still ‘use those nuts’ just that all of their threads would be used and thereby the longer stud spreading the tensile load over the longer stud ?.

I seem to recall from my studies in metallurgy years ago that 75% (?) of the load on a threaded joint is concentrated on the first few threads; the remaining threads only take load if the first threads yield, i.e they serve as a safety factor.

98

switchlogic:

Carryfast:
While your expert opinion said that they are mutually exclusive with longer studs anyway.

There really is no need to change how a common part is manufactured just because someone somewhere got confused by them once.

Once would be more than enough if someone confuses the opposite situation of the wrong nuts on the wrong studs having been lulled into a false sense of security.

99

Carryfast:

caledoniandream:
To help the dreamers why there is thread to the end of the nut, very simple:

  • first of all, if you want to use these wheels on a vehicle with longer studs, you need the whole nut threaded. The wheels have larger studs holes as normal to allow for the sleeve. So you cannot fit them on any vehicle with the standard nuts.
  • Second reason is very logical there need to be some space for adjustment, e.g. When you torque the wheels, the sleeve doesn’t go complex against the flange but is a couple of mm of.

Many drivers on here have driven with these wheelnuts without knowing it, as most have a end cap in there.
The system of sleeved nuts is about 30 years in common use, and safes the very high expense for unnecessary exchanging studs, which have to be changed back of you use steelies again.
For owners is wise to use silicon grease on the sleeves and on the flange to avoid corrosion. (Never use copaslip as bringing in a 3rd metal increases the corrosion)

A little bit disappointed in the fitter, if not sure take it apart and have a look, probably to cold to get his backside in gear.
With loosing one nut, everything would have been clear, put it back together and on you go, only one expensive hour lost where the wheels didn’t turn.

Is it really so bleedin difficult to say that if you want to use longer studs then you’ll need the full thread nuts.Also bearing in mind that not threaded right to the end doesn’t mean not enough for any ‘adjustment’.While the things are supposedly mainly used to allow shorter studs anyway.Bearing in mind as I said the confusion obviously,predictably,potentially, caused,as in this case,with standard nuts being used on too short studs.Or that one day the confusion might be the reverse in someone saying it’s ok no problem they are tube nuts on short studs when they actually aren’t. :unamused:

Jesus.

Christ.

100

Buckstones:

Carryfast:

switchlogic:
Christ, is there anything you don’t have a contrary opinion on? The way you see it is irrelevant Quite frankly.

No not a ‘contrary’ opinion at all.I thought you said it’s a matter of ‘choice’ either change the studs ‘or’ use those.My ‘preference’ ( choice ) would be change the studs.In which case you could still ‘use those nuts’ just that all of their threads would be used and thereby the longer stud spreading the tensile load over the longer stud ?.

I seem to recall from my studies in metallurgy years ago that 75% (?) of the load on a threaded joint is concentrated on the first few threads; the remaining threads only take load if the first threads yield, i.e they serve as a safety factor.

Here we go, he’ll reply to this now with a load of Googled bulls**, a selection of YouTube videos and a liberal splattering of complete nonsense, and he will go on and on and on and on and on and on and on and on and on and on like that for pages…