caledoniandream:
To help the dreamers why there is thread to the end of the nut, very simple:
first of all, if you want to use these wheels on a vehicle with longer studs, you need the whole nut threaded. The wheels have larger studs holes as normal to allow for the sleeve. So you cannot fit them on any vehicle with the standard nuts.
Second reason is very logical there need to be some space for adjustment, e.g. When you torque the wheels, the sleeve doesn’t go complex against the flange but is a couple of mm of.
Many drivers on here have driven with these wheelnuts without knowing it, as most have a end cap in there.
The system of sleeved nuts is about 30 years in common use, and safes the very high expense for unnecessary exchanging studs, which have to be changed back of you use steelies again.
For owners is wise to use silicon grease on the sleeves and on the flange to avoid corrosion. (Never use copaslip as bringing in a 3rd metal increases the corrosion)
A little bit disappointed in the fitter, if not sure take it apart and have a look, probably to cold to get his backside in gear.
With loosing one nut, everything would have been clear, put it back together and on you go, only one expensive hour lost where the wheels didn’t turn.
Is it really so bleedin difficult to say that if you want to use longer studs then you’ll need the full thread nuts.Also bearing in mind that not threaded right to the end doesn’t mean not enough for any ‘adjustment’.While the things are supposedly mainly used to allow shorter studs anyway.Bearing in mind as I said the confusion obviously,predictably,potentially, caused,as in this case,with standard nuts being used on too short studs.Or that one day the confusion might be the reverse in someone saying it’s ok no problem they are tube nuts on short studs when they actually aren’t.
Buckstones:
I seem to recall from my studies in metallurgy years ago that 75% (?) of the load on a threaded joint is concentrated on the first few threads; the remaining threads only take load if the first threads yield, i.e they serve as a safety factor.
I was also thinking along the lines of the ability to maintain tension v stretch in the stud between the threaded fastening points in a similar way that using a thicker head gasket usually means using longer studs/bolts even when there’s no issues regarding thread lengths at either end.
Having said that the idea of using tube nuts to extend the stud in this case obviously works.In which case it’s just an issue regarding the potential confusion caused by the full threaded nut v the shorter stud.
switchlogic:
Christ, is there anything you don’t have a contrary opinion on? The way you see it is irrelevant Quite frankly.
No not a ‘contrary’ opinion at all.I thought you said it’s a matter of ‘choice’ either change the studs ‘or’ use those.My ‘preference’ ( choice ) would be change the studs.In which case you could still ‘use those nuts’ just that all of their threads would be used and thereby the longer stud spreading the tensile load over the longer stud ?.
I seem to recall from my studies in metallurgy years ago that 75% (?) of the load on a threaded joint is concentrated on the first few threads; the remaining threads only take load if the first threads yield, i.e they serve as a safety factor.
Here we go, he’ll reply to this now with a load of Googled bulls**, a selection of YouTube videos and a liberal splattering of complete nonsense, and he will go on and on and on and on and on and on and on and on and on and on like that for pages…
Had some tyres changed today, i have alloys and the same design of nut on mine so got me ruler out (the one i need for checking 12" you understand ), the thread extends 3/4" past the washer, so more than enough.
Juddian:
Had some tyres changed today, i have alloys and the same design of nut on mine so got me ruler out (the one i need for checking 12" you understand ), the thread extends 3/4" past the washer, so more than enough.
Carryfast will be along momentarily to proof you wrong.
Juddian:
Had some tyres changed today, i have alloys and the same design of nut on mine so got me ruler out (the one i need for checking 12" you understand ), the thread extends 3/4" past the washer, so more than enough.
Juddian:
Had some tyres changed today, i have alloys and the same design of nut on mine so got me ruler out (the one i need for checking 12" you understand ), the thread extends 3/4" past the washer, so more than enough.
Juddian:
Had some tyres changed today, i have alloys and the same design of nut on mine so got me ruler out (the one i need for checking 12" you understand ), the thread extends 3/4" past the washer, so more than enough.
Were they metric or imperial tyres?
Theyre nearly always both ie 385/65/22.5 meaning 385mm wide, 65% aspect ratio x 22.5 inches (the size of the wheel rim)
Nkh22:
I’ve never seen anything like it,not left the yard all day as can’t get a straight answer from anyone regarding them.Been waiting for Daf Aid for last few hours.
You couldn’t fit longer studs, there is not enough room between the back of the hub flange and the disc to insert them into the hub. Generally the stud is slightly shorter than the distance between the two surfaces. You would need to strip off the hub and remove the disc to fit the longer studs and build up again, thus making a damaged stud replacement very expensive. Drum brakes give the same problem with clearance between the hub and axle tube.
Were they metric or imperial tyres?
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Did Margaret Thatcher make them?
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actually from the attatched pic then you will see that she patened the design for wheelstuds,and had them rubber tipped for a variety of uses,these particular puppies were prototypes to be trialled on the queens corgies withut bothering her majesty beforehand…honest.
What a to do about wheel nuts. I mean, we’ve all lost a few wheels now and then haven’t we. I think it’s good fun trying to spot who the runaway wheel belongs to just before a big smash up.
), the thread extends 3/4" past the washer, so more than enough.
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