In the late 90’s I was approached by an Italian company to do long haul stuff, with the main objective being the Chorgos about 100 meters on the China side of the Kazakhstan / China border. At that time China was closed to most westerners and a bit dodgy as far a politics went, they really didn’t like people snooping about so the company had a very strict no camera, no recording device rule which was mainly to keep tourist/ drivers from getting locked up or just disappearing all together and being branded as spies.
On one trip, while crossing Russia I stopped to buy some supplies and there was a beggar woman trying to sell a camera at the side of the road,( unfortunately not unusual for that time in Russia ) it was a Russian copy of a 35mm Kodak point and shoot so I though why not as I knew the shop I was going to sold 35mm film. I shot a whole roll along the way and got it developed when I got back, but sadly only a couple of shots were any good, with most being shot while moving and in poor light they all had very bad camera shake and most it was hard to even know what was sky and what was earth.
This shot was the last on the roll and nearly cost me everything I had. It was taken about 2 in the morning when I got up for, ( well I’m sure you know ) in the transfer station at Chorgos. The auto flash went of ( I didn’t think was working or I wouldn’t have taken the shot )and less than a minute later half a dozen armed Chinese border guards showed up with dogs and ordered every one out of the trucks while they did a cab check. I had heard them coming and knew there would be trouble so I chucked the camera up on top of the fridge and closed the door as quickly and quietly as I could. I wasn’t game enough to get it back for a couple of days until I finished tipping and reloading and was safely back on the Kaz side.
It was a cold wet night and the cab check took about an hour and half with all the drivers having to stand out side in what they would normally wear to bed. It was never said what was actually going on, but the next day there were plenty of rumors going about.
The photo isn’t that spectacular but when I think of what could have happened my blood still runs cold.
I think I’m a bit wiser now.
Jeff.