This is going to sound like a very very bone question but …
I’m trying to get the wheels off an old Chereau fridge trailer. I’ve jacked it up, undone all the wheel studs but … the ■■■■■■■ thing shows no sign of wanting to come off … am I missing something? Anyone got any helpful hints, other than setting the ■■■■ thing on fire and going to the pub instead (… in a socially distanced fashion of course!).
Thanks P.
Diggerlot:
This is going to sound like a very very bone question but …I’m trying to get the wheels off an old Chereau fridge trailer. I’ve jacked it up, undone all the wheel studs but … the [zb] thing shows no sign of wanting to come off … am I missing something? Anyone got any helpful hints, other than setting the ■■■■ thing on fire and going to the pub instead (… in a socially distanced fashion of course!).
Thanks P.
Wheels have corroded to hubs, sledgehammer time, sin each wheel whist whacking it with hammer… There’s a old frowned upon practice of, lossen wheel nuts and drive around in circles, or reverse on full lock making trailer crab, normally losses em.
Sounds like they are stuck, without name dropping,
Gray and Adams are as bad
That’s the only downside of spigot hubs. (Alloy wheels are even worse if they have been on for a long time) Ive seen them having to be jacked off if they are realky bad, but a good blooter with a sledgehammer on the inside of the rim should shift them.
(I should point out that neither Chereau or G+A make the axles or wheels fitted to their trailers)
Old John:
That’s the only downside of spigot hubs. (Alloy wheels are even worse if they have been on for a long time) Ive seen them having to be jacked off if they are realky bad, but a good blooter with a sledgehammer on the inside of the rim should shift them.
(I should point out that neither Chereau or G+A make the axles or wheels fitted to their trailers)
The industry will tell you never to lubricate wheel studs or the wheel surfaces, but others will tell you to rub a finger full of copperslip around the spigot. When I was painting I used to brush the wheel studs with some diesel or tape them up, just to prevent paint getting onto the threads.
Driving it round the yard with the nuts loose is the best way bar none and it’s not unsafe, as suggested, it is the safest way.
If you’ve got no way of moving the trailer then
Drown in WD40 so it runs down into all the wheel hub mating surface.
Hit with sledgehammer- often does nothing if well rusted
If you’ve got a portapower that and a sledgehammer will usually pop it
If you’ve got a hammer attachment for an air chisel that on the face can bust the rust loose with WD40 as well.
Then it’s on to riskier stuff like snatching it off with a chain behind a forklift or Jack it up and rest it on an upright block then pull the block away with a strap attached to a forklift, six inches of lift is usually enough.
Wheel Nut:
Old John:
That’s the only downside of spigot hubs. (Alloy wheels are even worse if they have been on for a long time) Ive seen them having to be jacked off if they are realky bad, but a good blooter with a sledgehammer on the inside of the rim should shift them.
(I should point out that neither Chereau or G+A make the axles or wheels fitted to their trailers)The industry will tell you never to lubricate wheel studs or the wheel surfaces, but others will tell you to rub a finger full of copperslip around the spigot. When I was painting I used to brush the wheel studs with some diesel or tape them up, just to prevent paint getting onto the threads.
Always thoroughly lubricate the threads of the studs and the mating surfaces of the nut and captive washer before fitting and torqueing. This makes it much more likely that you will achieve accurate torque settings, and nuts loosening will be much less likely.
Old John:
Wheel Nut:
Old John:
That’s the only downside of spigot hubs. (Alloy wheels are even worse if they have been on for a long time) Ive seen them having to be jacked off if they are realky bad, but a good blooter with a sledgehammer on the inside of the rim should shift them.
(I should point out that neither Chereau or G+A make the axles or wheels fitted to their trailers)The industry will tell you never to lubricate wheel studs or the wheel surfaces, but others will tell you to rub a finger full of copperslip around the spigot. When I was painting I used to brush the wheel studs with some diesel or tape them up, just to prevent paint getting onto the threads.
Always thoroughly lubricate the threads of the studs and the mating surfaces of the nut and captive washer before fitting and torqueing. This makes it much more likely that you will achieve accurate torque settings, and nuts loosening will be much less likely.
This is where the technical people disagree, like I said the industry would prefer that you didn’t lubricate any bolts for assembly and subsequent torque wrench checks. Would you lubricate cylinder head bolts or main bearing bolts in an engine?
Dry and Clean said the man
Wheel Nut:
Old John:
Wheel Nut:
Old John:
That’s the only downside of spigot hubs. (Alloy wheels are even worse if they have been on for a long time) Ive seen them having to be jacked off if they are realky bad, but a good blooter with a sledgehammer on the inside of the rim should shift them.
(I should point out that neither Chereau or G+A make the axles or wheels fitted to their trailers)The industry will tell you never to lubricate wheel studs or the wheel surfaces, but others will tell you to rub a finger full of copperslip around the spigot. When I was painting I used to brush the wheel studs with some diesel or tape them up, just to prevent paint getting onto the threads.
Always thoroughly lubricate the threads of the studs and the mating surfaces of the nut and captive washer before fitting and torqueing. This makes it much more likely that you will achieve accurate torque settings, and nuts loosening will be much less likely.
This is where the technical people disagree, like I said the industry would prefer that you didn’t lubricate any bolts for assembly and subsequent torque wrench checks. Would you lubricate cylinder head bolts or main bearing bolts in an engine?
Dry and Clean said the man
I do ,I wash all the bits with diesel and the airline then reassemble with a drop of engine oil on the threads from the oil can . 
Punchy Dan:
Wheel Nut:
Old John:
Wheel Nut:
[quote=The industry will tell you never to lubricate wheel studs or the wheel surfaces, but others will tell you to rub a finger full of copperslip around the spigot. When I was painting I used to brush the wheel studs with some diesel or tape them up, just to prevent paint getting onto the threads.
Always thoroughly lubricate the threads of the studs and the mating surfaces of the nut and captive washer before fitting and torqueing. This makes it much more likely that you will achieve accurate torque settings, and nuts loosening will be much less likely.
This is where the technical people disagree, like I said the industry would prefer that you didn’t lubricate any bolts for assembly and subsequent torque wrench checks. Would you lubricate cylinder head bolts or main bearing bolts in an engine?
Dry and Clean said the man
I do ,I wash all the bits with diesel and the airline then reassemble with a drop of engine oil on the threads from the oil can .
You need to be careful not to put too much oil on a bolt that’s going into a blind hole, but lash it on everywhere else.
If there’s any more than minimal friction between the male and female parts of a thread and also the face of the washer, you will get a false torque value when it is being tightened.
Wheel Nut:
Old John:
Wheel Nut:
Old John:
That’s the only downside of spigot hubs. (Alloy wheels are even worse if they have been on for a long time) Ive seen them having to be jacked off if they are realky bad, but a good blooter with a sledgehammer on the inside of the rim should shift them.
(I should point out that neither Chereau or G+A make the axles or wheels fitted to their trailers)The industry will tell you never to lubricate wheel studs or the wheel surfaces, but others will tell you to rub a finger full of copperslip around the spigot. When I was painting I used to brush the wheel studs with some diesel or tape them up, just to prevent paint getting onto the threads.
Always thoroughly lubricate the threads of the studs and the mating surfaces of the nut and captive washer before fitting and torqueing. This makes it much more likely that you will achieve accurate torque settings, and nuts loosening will be much less likely.
This is where the technical people disagree, like I said the industry would prefer that you didn’t lubricate any bolts for assembly and subsequent torque wrench checks. Would you lubricate cylinder head bolts or main bearing bolts in an engine?
Dry and Clean said the man
Yes, I don’t oil the threads. I clean them and will sometimes oil them and run the nut up and down for a thorough job but I always take the oil off with brake cleaner before torquing.
The issue being that if you lubricate threads, the same turning force (torque) on the fastener will put more tension on the stud or bolt.
engineeringtoolbox.com/torq … _1693.html
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