Having brought my truck privately and am now looking at giving it a service before it starts rolling. (Scania r480 58 plate 611000 kms)
My query is the filters, should I use genuine or are filters from hgv direct or the likes ok, I guess it is a very basic thing but the servicing side I’ve never had much to do with, but where I’m getting it done I’ll get a choice of genuine or after market.
Normally I’d go for genuine but with filters I wondered if there was much difference?
Also what filters would you say I should change… so far I can come up with
Air filter
Fuel
Oil
Air dryer filter?
Pollen?
Anything I have missed or anything I shouldn’t bother with?
Thanks in advance guys/gals [emoji1474]
I would use on a Scania original filters, having problems in the past with air filters.
Non genuine filters use to have a problem with sealing, letting dirt in and destroying the air compressor.
The other filter you should replace is cooling, as the original adds anti corrosive to the system.
Use the correct oil for engine.
Like any operator with a ‘new’ vehicle on the fleet the very first priority should be a ‘first use’ safety inspection, this should be regardless of whether there is a recent MOT or not. As a new operator wanting to get off on the right track this is an important part of your maintenance records which will show that you are taking your commitment to preventive maintenance seriously. If you have your own trailer then this should be treated the same way. Although you obviously have your own arrangements in place for safety inspections already and maybe some knowledge of the contractor’s standards, you will be having to put your trust in them and their abilities. Whether you tell them or not will be up to you, but a QC check on their work is one of the things recommended by the TC. In that case you could consider putting the vehicle in for a voluntary test maybe before giving it to them this time, this would give you the opportunity of talking to a tester to glean some idea of what common defects on a Scania he is specifically looking out for and explaining that you are a new operator having just got this vehicle, and keen to make sure you do things properly.
There are others far more conversant with Scania than me to advise on servicing, but I will add my thrupennyworth from past memory of the brand. Unless things have changed, there will be a centrigugal oil filter which needs cleaning out, so you will need a seal kit for it. You should also renew the Power steering filter, but first drain the reservoir before removing the filter. It is important to renew the air drier filter to prevent contaminating the rest of the system. Forget any Scania time interval - do it at least annually since it gives you the chance to gauge the condition of the vehicle’s compressor. A glance at the bottom of the air drier silencer will give an idea of the amount of oil passed bythe compressor. At the same time remove the steel outlet pipe from the compressor to check on carbon build up. Probably a good idea would be to renew the flexible pipe from the compressor regardless of its apparent condition; a pinhole in this will bring the vehicle to a halt. If you are intending to do much of your own servicing then acquire the necessary test gear for coolant analysis and (if it is still used) the special fitting, which couples onto a union in the engine block, which is necessary to refill the cooling system. Your local Commercial vehicle motor factor will probably be able to get hold of the Knorr Bremse poster for you which gives guidance on brake caliper servicing. The check on freedom of movement recommended every three months should really be being done on every PMI.
There is on some Scania rear axles, but I don’t know whether the R480 has or not. There used to be one for the turbo as well which was the same one (EFL 90) for a Ford Cortina .
Dont forget the centrifuge and the O rings and you should check the breather.For that you will need a multimeter that will give a reading in frequency and an ABS sensor.Breather should give a reading of about 120 rpm.
Thanks for your help guys… I have decided to book her in keltruck for a major service… then I know… peace of mind… nice bit of the maintenance pot gone to lol… cheers chaps
You haven’t mentioned whether your PMIs will be done by a main dealer, independent garage or whatever, so the following assumes that these will be done elsewhere, but that you haven’t decided yet on who does purely servicing work and any more major repairs.
If you are booking it into a main dealer make sure you get to read through one of their major service sheets. Have someone explain to you what is being done, and what is not in relation to anything which may be mentioned on this developing thread. You are paying the piper so you call the tune. Get your overalls out and have a thorough look around the vehicle yourself before sending it in. Negotiate the labour rate they quote you - their first offer will be their retail rate. Depending upon whether you wish to continue using them or not will give you some bargaining advantage. Make sure that you give them a cash limit for rectification work which must not be exceeded without your approval. They cannot deny you the right to be shown what parts they consider need renewal before that work commences. You want to achieve a good reliable and legal vehicle commensurate with its age, not one which has been completely overhauled so do not forget that they are in business to sell you repairs and parts.
There are ways to keep the cost of main dealer servicing and repairs down which are practised by the rental companies and big fleet operators. You can supply your own oils, but expect to be charged for waste oil disposal. Alternatively you can negotiate a price per litre below their initial quote. You can open a parts department account, negotiate a discount and then make clear that all parts - filters included - are to be booked out to you via your parts account so that you receive the discount you would otherwise forfeit.
If they are doing a safety inspection as well, then insist on getting the actual grubby inspection sheet the fitter was working from as well as the neat office produced one. Their roller brake test machine should produce a print out of the actual readings achieved, you want that as well as the PMI sheet filled in with just the percentages.
Try to get to talk to one of the breakdown call out fitters - a drink could produce some valuable advice and an idea of what might be a few good spares to keep in the locker other than mirror and light lenses and bulbs.
No major service can guarantee that you don’t break down.
I would have taken an oil sample and send away for analysis, this will tell you the true story of the internals of engine, gearbox and diff.
It shows if there is wear, antifreeze in the oil, fuel in the oil, and you can have a good understanding of previous maintenance.
Dealers or independent doesn’t always make a difference, it’s important that you have trust in the company who does it.
Make sure you set a maintenance contract up, before you operate.
caledoniandream:
No major service can guarantee that you don’t break down.
I would have taken an oil sample and send away for analysis, this will tell you the true story of the internals of engine, gearbox and diff.
It shows if there is wear, antifreeze in the oil, fuel in the oil, and you can have a good understanding of previous maintenance.
Dealers or independent doesn’t always make a difference, it’s important that you have trust in the company who does it.
Make sure you set a maintenance contract up, before you operate.
What like the towrag MAN main agent I worked for that charged 80 quid extra to grease the king pins.
Robbin shysters.
“find somebody you can trust”
Not some bloody rip off main agent.