Hi folks, I’ve bought myself an iveco stralis, 2008, this is probably aimed at owner drivers, workshop techs, and self service gurus.
I have an abundance of experience when it comes too cars and light commercials, but nothing on lorries.
The first difference is price, I can’t believe the difference in filter prices, why can a oil filter canister type on a van be £6, but on a truck £50■■? Have I just not found the right supplier yet.
The technical question I want to ask is the various oils, I’d like to change them all, but in particular, I can’t as yet get anyone to say whether I could put a semi 5/30 in just as I’d put in a light commercial. They will only try and sell me ultra low ash, ultra Eco, versimax at a £100 for 20 litres? Is this my only option?
Other pointers I’d like is what should I be doing on the truck that doesn’t apply to light commercials, there’s an abundance of filters obviously such as vgt, power steering, gearbox,air brake drier, ad blue, possibly 3 fuel! It’s the little tips and tricks that will see me and others well who read this, things like draining the air tanks ( assuming they still build moisture) , - anything and everything please. Not after any negative Norris spouting about take it to a stealer ship, I want it done right. Thanks in advance
Thanks Dan, I’ve got semi 5/30 that ive always put in cars and vans (if suitable) that I can get at £190 for a barrel, that’s why Id like to use same stuff if it’s compatible. Thanks in advance
Get yourself a driver’s handbook and a detailed servicing schedule from the local main dealer to begin with.
It may be the way you have phrased your enquiry, but your stated lack of knowledge of lorries makes me just a little uneasy. There are so many people around running light commercials who think they can just go out and buy a bigger lorry and that’s all there is to it. If you haven’t got one you need an Operator’s Licence.The knowledge that the holder of one should have would actually be answering some of your less technical queries. If I have misunderstood you then I apologise.
To return to nuts and bolts:
NO1 The be all and end all.) You need to have preventive maintenance inspections carried out by a suitably qualified and competent person using an approved list of items needing inspection on a frequency agreed with the Traffic Commissioner. This will be somewhere between every 4 to 13 weeks. You will need to have recorded a list of defects found and what action had been taken to rectify them. You need to keep these records for a specified period. These inspections need to take place in accordance with a referrable plan. If you don’t fully understand what this entails then you are not qualified to be doing these inspections yourself.There is no legal requirement to do any SERVICING work whatsoever.
2)The handbook and servicing schedule will specify which grade of oil you need to use and how often to change fuel filters.
More information is needed on what exactly you have bought and what you are intending to do with it including mileage proposed P.A. The Stralis range does not only consist of maximum weight artics, which somehow I get the feeling is not what you are running.
Extended oil drain periods are really only meant for vehicles covering a high mileage regardless of what oil is in use. Attempting to apply this to inappropriate operating conditions is asking for serious problems.
Ignore what the recommendations are for renewing fuel filters and do this far more frequently. The air drier filter should be renewed at least annually.
The cost of a filter is miniscule in comparison to the value of what they are protecting. There are cheaper filters available from motor factors, but you need to be choosy about brand, personally I go for Fleetguard or OE.
You need to pay particular attention to the chemical composition of coolant.
Oil* High grade oil will run 100,000 km
Run 10/40 semi synthetic.
Fuel filters same again 100,000 km and wash the gauze pre filters dont replace.
Air filter good for 500,000 km
Air drier Change every 3 years,unless you have a dodgy compressor.
Diff Every 200,000 after initial change due to “bedding” fluid added at the factory.
Gearbox every 250,000 km as most auto boxes dont have a syncro shift but a “timed” shift so in effect a computer controlled crash box.
Power steering never change the filter,sealed system.
Another good idea is to buy some neodimium magnets (e bay) and fasten them to the fuel and oil filter cannisters or housings.They pull the swarf out the oil/fuel systems and keep the systems clean.On common rail systems the fuel flow is very high and any swarf under a micron can recirculate through the filters and wear the injectors/pumps.The magnets will grab them and reduce wear
Thanks cav, no worries on the questioning my knowledge.
I have bought 2008 stralis, 6x2 with cursor 10 engine.
When I say I’ve a lack of knowledge, it’s more I question everything. Technically, on the spanners, iv no probs, and not just from a bolt on-bolt off scenario I mean the understanding, diagnosis, adjustment, etc etc.
It’s more a case I can’t quite get the answer I’m satisfied with regards the engine oil. Theyre saying it has to be the stuff that’s £800 a barrel, which I just want reassuring of. When I rang this morning it was the £103 for 20 litres, spoke to someone else, 45 mins later and it was the £83 per 25 litres? If you all say your paying £10 a litre when your bill comes then it gives me a clue.
I want my truck to be right, which unfortunately, will mean doing it myself even after it’s been for its inspections.
The times I get vehicles back from main stealers “full service”, only to find air filters blown out with airlines instead of replaced, wheels not even removed, no spanner marks on any gear/diff bungs, grease ■■■■■■■ not greased, and the list goes on. It’s just not good enough for me.
Regards the chemical composition of coolant-are you talking of the process where I have a 100 ml tested in the lab?
Thanks in advance
Matt
07971978044
So thanks for that guys but keep em coming
Thanks bking-but what is ‘high grade oil’- if I talk to the reps who sell oil or the suppliers there just quoting from the book, if you ask them something specific or try and squeeze a bit of info out them, they shrug they’re shoulders
Would you know, if I ordered my usual barrel of 5/30 semi that is quality,£190 a barrel, would it be up to job-or has it got to be “truck” oil? They can plough as much words as ecoroll and sulphur, ash, and platinum into the title as they wish, but does it have to be this stuff that so far is about £5 per litre?
Have a look at this site. Morris’s are one of the smaller oil companies who regularly update their product range. They have a good name going back a very long way. Many of the own label and ‘factory’ oils available are actually blended by Morris’s.
If you look at the commercial vehicles What Oil? section and enter the exact model of vehicle it will come up with what they recommend. You will also find that they list an alternative usually. They have a technical department who are very helpful and quite happy to talk to individuals. The Rep I deal with has been in the game for more than 40 years.
Am I right in still thinking that you are talking about a 26 tonne 6x2 rigid?
Oil every 75k, maybe not manufacturer’s exact recommended but still a good one. If you do under 100k a year then maybe extend to just an annual service. Remember manufacturer’s drain intervals are ambitious they’re in the business of selling new trucks not keeping old ones in trouble free service indefinitely.
Oil, fuel filters and air drier cartridges all annually. I would go OEM on all of them. Also, at the same time, take the air filter out and give it a good blow clean with an air gun and take a view on what it looks like - slightly clogged just replace if it saves £4/week on fuel economy then it’s easily paid for itself. Same with air drier cartridges they’re cheap so if it’s your truck change them annually at most. Gearbox and diff oil every other year unless mega miles. Think Fuchs is the best value for ZF Astronic you could do diff to start with and leave it for probably at least 3 years though, no trouble. Cab pollen filter worth doing annually also.
Don’t forget a grease up, probably every other PMI and have a look at battery water level. There’s a whole load of common problems but one worth doing is protecting the header tank from UV light coming through the mesh of the front grill the plastic disintegrates and at best you’ll be in for a new header tank at worst you’ll get stranded at the side of the road.
I don’t really know much about this but we had an 02 reg auto iveco in last week with a leaking valve on top of the gear box which made it loose drive ,I belive a few preventive measures could of stopped this ,anyone shed any light on this ?
Own Account Driver:
Oil every 75k, maybe not manufacturer’s exact recommended but still a good one. If you do under 100k a year then maybe extend to just an annual service. Remember manufacturer’s drain intervals are ambitious they’re in the business of selling new trucks not keeping old ones in trouble free service indefinitely.
Oil, fuel filters and air drier cartridges all annually. I would go OEM on all of them. Also, at the same time, take the air filter out and give it a good blow clean with an air gun and take a view on what it looks like - slightly clogged just replace if it saves £4/week on fuel economy then it’s easily paid for itself. Same with air drier cartridges they’re cheap so if it’s your truck change them annually at most. Gearbox and diff oil every other year unless mega miles. Think Fuchs is the best value for ZF Astronic you could do diff to start with and leave it for probably at least 3 years though, no trouble. Cab pollen filter worth doing annually also.
Don’t forget a grease up, probably every other PMI and have a look at battery water level. There’s a whole load of common problems but one worth doing is protecting the header tank from UV light coming through the mesh of the front grill the plastic disintegrates and at best you’ll be in for a new header tank at worst you’ll get stranded at the side of the road.
Dan Punchard:
I don’t really know much about this but we had an 02 reg auto iveco in last week with a leaking valve on top of the gear box which made it loose drive ,I belive a few preventive measures could of stopped this ,anyone shed any light on this ?
Ever heard of “worn out” the bloody thing is 13 years old.
Dan Punchard:
I don’t really know much about this but we had an 02 reg auto iveco in last week with a leaking valve on top of the gear box which made it loose drive ,I belive a few preventive measures could of stopped this ,anyone shed any light on this ?
That was probably the pressure regulator valve ,drops the pressure to 7.5bar ,there isn’t really anything you can do to prevent failure ,except make sure the airsystem is ok and the air tank is drained…No doubt our Katie Hopkins will be on soon to say i’m talking crap I will leavethe deision of who you would listen to
Did you get the part for your visor ,or did your own hand made ones suffice?
Dan Punchard:
I don’t really know much about this but we had an 02 reg auto iveco in last week with a leaking valve on top of the gear box which made it loose drive ,I belive a few preventive measures could of stopped this ,anyone shed any light on this ?
Ever heard of “worn out” the bloody thing is 13 years old.
It was only bought for the crane ,I’d buy a 13 yr old Erf and expect it to be good but not iveco .
I mean the understanding, diagnosis, adjustment, etc etc.
