Can we damaged coolbox (just 12V by instruction) if put in 24V sockets???I buy new cool box.At home switch to to 220V and was working good.But in truck may be i was plugged in 24 (not 12V).After start smell and not working any more■■?
Have you checked for blown fuse.
As above look for a blown fuse.
If there was a horrible smell and the “magic smoke” escaped it’s dead.
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Coolbox like this leisureoutlet.com/cool-bags … QAvD_BwE.I check fuges and no fault.Green light at coolbox show who power on but not working.I ready contact to seller and they said sent back or bring to nearest store.It is just for future-Can we damaged any electrical 12V item if plug in in 24V??
Andrejs:
Coolbox like this leisureoutlet.com/cool-bags … QAvD_BwE.I check fuges and no fault.Green light at coolbox show who power on but not working.I ready contact to seller and they said sent back or bring to nearest store.It is just for future-Can we damaged any electrical 12V item if plug in in 24V??
Plugging a 12v appliance into a 24v supply can either blow the fuse in the appliance, if it has one, or trip a reset button if it has one, or maybe burn out the appliance if it has no voltage protection designed in.
Don’t plug 12v kit into 24v supply.
1st choice. Look at socket for voktage markings.
2nd choice. Look in manual for truck socket voltages.
3rd choice. Use a multimeter to check socket voltage.
4th choice. Supply a 24v bulb from socket. If it’s24v it’ll be bright, if 12v it’ll be dim and yellowish.
Connecting a 12v appliance to an unknown supply is not a good choice.
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It baffles me why all electrical outlets aren’t marked with the voltage. I have a plug-in tester which was only a couple of quid off ebay.
Harry Monk:
It baffles me why all electrical outlets aren’t marked with the voltage. I have a plug-in tester which was only a couple of quid off ebay.
Agree its silly that sockets arent all clearly marked.
Neat device that. Gotta be good for your cab hopping. And itll overcome any "customisation" of cab electrics. One driver I know wired a UK 240v socket into the truck electrics. OK, that wont do much harm, maybe, but what about the 24v kettle he`d put a 3-pin mains plug onto!
Those voltmeters shown are a handy cheap device to check the basic battery charging on your own car too is suspected, so well worth the cost.
Younger members here won’t remember when many cars had ammeters or voltmeters or most importantly an oil pressure gauge in the dash of surprisingly humble cars, whilst rev counters were the sole pursuit of those with sporty pretense.
Some makers even dispensed with a proper coolant temp gauge and had a red light supposed to shine out if the temp got too high 
I needed a new multi-way adapter for the car, also wanted USB power outlets for a couple of gadgets that I had bought recently. After some searching I found this on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B076V9VQPM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It’s ok on 12v or 24v and also has a digital voltage indicator plus other features to protect the car electrics and devices plugged in.
Would not help with the 12v cool box problem, I guess that is now fried!
In any modern lorry, I always assume that an accessory socket is 24V unless it’s clearly marked otherwise.
If in doubt invest in a cheap plug-in voltage dropper.
Robertthegreat:
Have you checked for blown fuse.
If there’s a smell it is beyond a blown fuse. Over-voltage won’t usually blow a fuse unless a component has gone dead short and draws a load of current.
Basically yes.
I destroyed TWO fridges in a row cos I didn’t know the socket in my TGX was 24v. The fridges both ran for a while and packed up.
Sorted.Bring back to store and they make money refund.Ready found what i will buy next.Next will coolbox who can work 12/24/220.Brushless, wear free fan.More expensive but i think better.If fridge can work from both 12v or 24v.That he wll pump same amount of power from battery at night or connected to 24V can reduced risk of flat battery at the morning.
The Waeco Tropicool ones have a cut-out, so unlike the cheaper ones they’re not running all the time. Advantage with having mains as well is that you can pre-cool the box at home which saves your battery when you get in the truck, plus as an added bonus you’ve got a beer cooler for your summer BBQ.
Sidevalve:
The Waeco Tropicool ones have a cut-out, so unlike the cheaper ones they’re not running all the time. Advantage with having mains as well is that you can pre-cool the box at home which saves your battery when you get in the truck, plus as an added bonus you’ve got a beer cooler for your summer BBQ.
Waeco change name.Now it is Domestic 12volttechnology.com.au/smartbl … of-CF.html
Juddian:
Those voltmeters shown are a handy cheap device to check the basic battery charging on your own car too is suspected, so well worth the cost.Younger members here won’t remember when many cars had ammeters or voltmeters or most importantly an oil pressure gauge in the dash of surprisingly humble cars, whilst rev counters were the sole pursuit of those with sporty pretense.
Some makers even dispensed with a proper coolant temp gauge and had a red light supposed to shine out if the temp got too high
Morris group red light of death when you went to fast through a flood or large puddle. Coupled with the clapometer Speedo. Different times
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Juddian:
Younger members here won’t remember when many cars had ammeters or voltmeters or most importantly an oil pressure gauge in the dash of surprisingly humble cars…
Oddly my relatively modern car (Citroen C5) has a battery guage but it the only one I’ve seen it on since my dads last Mini (long before BMW version). Suppose its all in the computer now and requires the car reader machine to check, for a fee. About time they were reintroduced.