As previously said in my first post I’m on the verge of signing up for either cat c or possibly cat c+e course. My confusion though is that a few places I have spoken with do the c+e training using a towing set up which qualifies as c+e ! surely if you gained it this way when you came to get a job driving class 1 you would not have any experience with the size of an artic, the gears of an artic or how to hook up ? So my question is should I go for a company that trains you for cat c+e in an artic or would it not be a problem to learn in a rigid with a trailor for the c+e ? hope you can understand my drift here 
The options seem endless and confusing don’t they?! I’ll give you an unbiased answer as I offer virtually all combinations. Firstly, it’s an indisputable fact that most CE work is artic as opposed to drawbar. How you get there is the question though.
Drawbar is easier as you don’t have to learn much about steering. Also easy to correct reversing steering errors as the trailer reacts quickly. (Bear in mind it also reacts quickly if you turn the wrong way though!)
Artic is so much more enjoyable once you get over the initial “OMG it’s huge” thing. In reality, my case, the artic is 1 metre longer overall than drawbar. But sits up high so you feel like a “proper trucker”.
I offer choice of manual or auto drawbar or auto full size artics. In all cases the cost to Trucknet users is £1215 incl VAT and test and FREE driver cpc. Also free accommodation for folks more than 70 miles away.
When you’re looking round, bear this in mind as well. This is the list of DVSA Accredited LGV Training Centres which is frighteningly short. Ask yourself why. dft.gov.uk/fyn/lgv.php
Hope this helps. Any questions, fire away. Pete 
Thanks for the reply Pete.
to my mind from reading your reply the way to go certainly seems to be learn in what you intend to drive ! I personally would not want to learn in a draw bar if my first job was going to be in an artic.
Im now booked in again next week for a medical as the D4 I sent off last week was returned this morning due to it now being out of date.
Im still confused at the moment in my own mind though about what sort of work I want to chase, whether it be class C with HIAB training so to try and find local hiab work or to go the full hog and go for C+E ? part of me thinks go for the C+E + hiab then all options are open to me. What would the cost be Pete for cat C +hiab, C+E +hiab or C+E no hiab ? and what would you advise.
Thanks
This summer I passed C&E with Peter Smythe using the ‘wag and drag’ set up, I am now driving full artic’s and I was recently thinking to myself whether with hindsight I would of been better off doing the test using the artic instead of the W&D - having given it some consideration I came to the definite conclusion that, for me, W&D was the right option. I came to this conclusion because driving the same vehicle I used in Cat C did make it easier to pass the Cat C+E test - no new vehicle lay out to learn, no different driving height or position etc; in reality all I had to do was get used to having a trailer on the back. Once I had passed C+E I took the 3 hour conversion course that PSTT offers and to be honest found it quite easy to get the hang of driving the artic’s, the only difficulties that I have is when it comes to reversing but IMO the test offers very little in the way of getting used to real life reversing procedures and so it benefits are negligible.
Just my thoughts.
MickyB666:
This summer I passed C&E with Peter Smythe using the ‘wag and drag’ set up, I am now driving full artic’s and I was recently thinking to myself whether with hindsight I would of been better off doing the test using the artic instead of the W&D - having given it some consideration I came to the definite conclusion that, for me, W&D was the right option. I came to this conclusion because driving the same vehicle I used in Cat C did make it easier to pass the Cat C+E test - no new vehicle lay out to learn, no different driving height or position etc; in reality all I had to do was get used to having a trailer on the back. Once I had passed C+E I took the 3 hour conversion course that PSTT offers and to be honest found it quite easy to get the hang of driving the artic’s, the only difficulties that I have is when it comes to reversing but IMO the test offers very little in the way of getting used to real life reversing procedures and so it benefits are negligible.Just my thoughts.
Thanks for that, it’s interesting to know from someone who has recently experienced the change over. 
MickyB666:
Once I had passed C+E I took the 3 hour conversion course that PSTT offers and to be honest found it quite easy to get the hang of driving the artic’s, the only difficulties that I have is when it comes to reversing but IMO the test offers very little in the way of getting used to real life reversing procedures and so it benefits are negligible.
I agree that just whacking a trailer on the back of the same Class C vehicle you’ve passed in previously, is probably initially easier…
But your above statement kind of contradicts that by saying, it was easy to move up to an Artic…
I can’t comment about the reversing, I’ll be cocking mine up this weekend!
And for my C+E, I’ve gone for the Artic, as I want the real thing from the start, and not shell out extra on a conversion course.
We’ll see soon if I made the right decision…
Evil8Beezle:
MickyB666:
Once I had passed C+E I took the 3 hour conversion course that PSTT offers and to be honest found it quite easy to get the hang of driving the artic’s, the only difficulties that I have is when it comes to reversing but IMO the test offers very little in the way of getting used to real life reversing procedures and so it benefits are negligible.I agree that just whacking a trailer on the back of the same Class C vehicle you’ve passed in previously, is probably initially easier…
But your above statement kind of contradicts that by saying, it was easy to move up to an Artic…
I can’t comment about the reversing, I’ll be cocking mine up this weekend!And for my C+E, I’ve gone for the Artic, as I want the real thing from the start, and not shell out extra on a conversion course.
We’ll see soon if I made the right decision…
Post back with the outcome, I’m really interested to hear what you think
I used to own a 1997 Kawasaki ZX7R. Firecracker red/purple.
Just thought I would throw that into the mix.
eagerbeaver:
I used to own a 1997 Kawasaki ZX7R. Firecracker red/purple.Just thought I would throw that into the mix.
Not Green?
Do your employers know you have strayed in the past? 
Christ. Looks like the van drivers have finished for the day.
eagerbeaver:
Christ. Looks like the van drivers have finished for the day.
I’m off sick (excessive limp!) 
Looking forward to joining the big boy crew mate?
eagerbeaver:
Looking forward to joining the big boy crew mate?
Of course, I want to emulate your disdain, disgust and despise of VAN drivers! 
Plus to shut you up bellend…
eagerbeaver:
I used to own a 1997 Kawasaki ZX7R. Firecracker red/purple.Just thought I would throw that into the mix.
Yep so did I back in the day, but i thought kwakzx7rR1ducati916ZX9RGSXR600GSXR750APRILLIARS250CBR900RSV1000GPZ1000RX would have been to long for a user name so picked one of the favourites I owned
What would the cost be Pete for cat C +hiab, C+E +hiab or C+E no hiab ? and what would you advise.
Now you’ve got me!! We don’t offer HIAB at the moment so I cant give you a quote inclusive of that.
But C is £1215 incl VAT and test fee and CE is the same (regardless of configuration)
With both courses you get free driver cpc. Depending on your circumstances, you will probably end up with 10 years of cpc. But I would need to confirm that from more details.
Free accommodation with both practical courses naturally (if you’re more than 70 miles away).
Obviously I’m going to advise doing both C and CE. Firstly, it’s best for your ongoing employment opportunities and earning capacity and, dare I say it, it’s another course in our book! Seriously, it’s always the best option but I don’t ever recommend going into debt for CE. Better to earn from C, save up, then do CE.
Hope this helps, Pete
BTW, I stopped riding bikes in 2009 due to arthritis in my right hand (not a good idea if the front brake is needed a bit quick!). But for a few years a had a new Goldwing each year as the flagship for my bike school. Instructor bikes were 1100 Pans progressing to 1300’s. Due to sickness I went down to a 1300 Pan then finished up with VFR 800 so nothing really to be proud of. But in the nineties I owned/ran 35 bikes on training so that’s maybe worth mentioning?
Thanks Pete for the info. Nice to hear your an ex biker ! like myself. hiab training is something I can do down here so not a problem. Are you about tomorrow ? if you are I’ll give you call. Cheers, Nick
I don’t go in to the office much - meant to be retired but that’s just a malicious rumour!! But the office is well staffed; speak with Aaron or Tracey, tell them you’ve been in touch with me, and they’ll sort out anything you want.
You can always contact me via pm but if it’s dates etc, always better off at the office. Hope that’s ok, Pete
Peter Smythe:
I don’t go in to the office much - meant to be retired but that’s just a malicious rumour!! But the office is well staffed; speak with Aaron or Tracey, tell them you’ve been in touch with me, and they’ll sort out anything you want.You can always contact me via pm but if it’s dates etc, always better off at the office. Hope that’s ok, Pete
eagerbeaver:
I used to own a 1997 Kawasaki ZX7R. Firecracker red/purple.Just thought I would throw that into the mix.
I’ve still got a ZZR1100
In the artic vs drawbar debate, my thoughts are this; a drawbar is much easier to handle on the road due to the coupling being central over the length of the vehicle. Also where the coupling sits behind the rear axle of the rigid the opposite swing effect pushes the front of the trailer away from corners as you turn. Therefore they corner much better. Artics with their long trailers, short tractor units and coupling close to the front have a tendency to cut corners more, meaning a higher risk of hitting a kerb while on test. It is true that it can be argued that it’s best to learn in what you’ll likely use as a driver, however, when you’re paying in excess of £200 a day to learn to drive and £115 for a test, why not do your training in a drawbar, then once the expensive training and test is complete do some familiarisation training on a full size artic (with no test to get through and no pressure). After all, when you learn to drive a car, you normally use something like a Corsa or a Fiesta, not a Range Rover!