Warming up an engine

Roymondo:

Freight Dog:
Says this in my car manual. So Carryfast is disagreeing directly with this from German engineers. I suspect this won’t lead to any agreement :smiley: . I’ll stick with my manual.

From German engineers, or from German lawyers? Allowing a vehicle engine to idle unnecessarily is Verboten under German law (for environmental reasons) and I suspect the handbook advice may even be required to reflect this.

Ve do not care if you wreck ze engine.You vil not let it idle to warm up.Or to keep it warm in freezing temperatures.Now we know why they lost the war against the Russians on the eastern front and the Battle of the Bulge. :smiling_imp: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

Freight Dog:
Says this in my car manual. So Carryfast is disagreeing directly with this from German engineers. I suspect this won’t lead to any agreement :smiley: . I’ll stick with my manual.

So how do you accelerate a loaded truck on an entry slip road from a motorway services for example to a safe merging speed without applying a considerable load to the engine,going strictly by those instructions ?.The same could apply in the case of entering and exiting roundabouts and numerous other situations in which trying to avoid engine load would create a hazard to other traffic.

Freight Dog:
Why? It’s a thread on a seemingly simple technical topic that has some complex aspects, so not remarkable it would spark 6 pages of discussion. Some threads on trolls run to pages on here. Less ridiculous :smiley: ?

Well the part on dentists was just the icing on the cake. It actually doesn’t have any complex aspects, but I’ll just let the Flat Earth Society carry on…

So you’re a dentist and you recommend a product that removes the need for dental work, yeah that makes sense, all the years of study down the plughole thanks to a tube of Colgate. It’s a bit like a Turkey getting excited about Xmas.

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Juddian:

newmercman:
There are two things I never do, one is buy a toothpaste recommended by dentists and the other is listen to manufacturer’s recommendations on engine life, both for the same reason.

Amen.

This applies so much to cars with silly outlandish engine oil service intervals, and, wait for it, sealed for life :unamused: transmissions apparently never needing an oil change, all designed to keep leasing fleet costs down, with the worse offenders sticking rigidly to their measly 3 year warranties, you don’t hear of Toyota or Honda or Kia/Hyundai recommending 20k service intervals or suggesting the gear oil should never be inspected or changed.

Juddian, quite agree, I’ve a Ford ranger 3.2 which has 20000 mile service intervals, the bloody oil filter is the size of a thimble, absolute crap, I change at 10000, I don’t give a toss what the dealership says!
As for warming an engine I always let them run a bit before driving off and always will, I also let them cool for a couple of mins before switching off, can’t be doing with all these experts that say no need in a modern engine, many of which have never even seen inside a modern engine! The things are built as cheap as possible to last just long enough!

milodon:

Freight Dog:
Why? It’s a thread on a seemingly simple technical topic that has some complex aspects, so not remarkable it would spark 6 pages of discussion. Some threads on trolls run to pages on here. Less ridiculous :smiley: ?

Well the part on dentists was just the icing on the cake. It actually doesn’t have any complex aspects, but I’ll just let the Flat Earth Society carry on…

Must admit the dental references are having me scratch my head now :smiley: ?!

Freight Dog:
…Must admit the dental references are having me scratch my head now :smiley: ?!..

Thatll be nits or itchy scalp, youll need a doctor not a dentist. :wink: :wink: :smiley:

Well I think it’s fair to say this is a divided opinion :smiley: . I’m yet to be swayed by dentistry or turkeys. I am an opened minded fellow though but the arguments have yet to trump the provenience of the advice I already have for my own vehicle. Rather than someone who hasn’t seen inside an engine they are a world leading engine specialist on this brand of vehicle. I guess sometimes one has to accept the old habits that my Grandad might have taught me might need updating for relevance.

And before the conspiracy theorists run amock, yes, the specialist advice is in concert with the guidance in the manual. But this particular specialist has not always agreed with the manufacturer. In fact they discovered a serious property of some of the engines that could lead to bore scoring under certain conditions. They’re considered world experts on the subject. So much so the manufacturer quietly behind the scenes saught their findings.

Guess we all have to take what we want. For me, I keep an open mind to changing my habits and I’ll go with the engineers and my manual :smiley: .

Carryfast:

Freight Dog:
Says this in my car manual. So Carryfast is disagreeing directly with this from German engineers. I suspect this won’t lead to any agreement :smiley: . I’ll stick with my manual.

So how do you accelerate a loaded truck on an entry slip road from a motorway services for example to a safe merging speed without applying a considerable load to the engine,going strictly by those instructions ?.The same could apply in the case of entering and exiting roundabouts and numerous other situations in which trying to avoid engine load would create a hazard to other traffic.

Don’t know mate, those instructions are for a car, not an artic :laughing: . . Even if you did want to follow the porker advice on a Daf (why would you, read a Daf manual), it only mentions avoiding high rpm and full throttle. If you can’t pull out onto a road without full floored throttle you’re probably doing something wrong. Trucks used to pull out with wimpy 260hp motors, im sure a 520 can do it.

1/ My car manual says not to warm by idling but to warm by driving in a certain fashion (doesn’t ever use the phrase “do not warm”, the emphasis is on warming correctly)
2/ Car manual backed up by engineer advice giving technical reasons and technique.
3/ noticed lorry manuals happened to have similar advice
4/ have not spoken with any particular world leading lorry engine builder to ask for technical reason or ask how one may warm a particular lorry up whilst driving
5/ deduce there is something in it, however only expansive information on a road vehicle I have received applies to my car.
6/ collate this on my input on thread citing occasions I’ve previously come across guidance on not warming by idling, on various vehicles that I’ve encountered
7/ as expected, some agree there is clearly something in it pertaining to some engines and vehicles
8/ as expected, some call warming with anything other than tick-over downright witchcraft. A load of tosh and a conspiracy, no matter who, or what told me otherwise.

Freightdog: what procedures do you have for your jet engines? When I’ve been on an aircraft they seem to start up just before the push back and are switched off very quickly after arrival at the gate. Do you rely on the thousands of litres a minute of air sucked in to act as cooling for certain components?

Re cars I was the subject of much hilarity by someone I know recently when I had the cheek to suggest they might want to get their car’s oil changed after the first few hundred miles (brand new VW diesel…). Apparently there was no need for this and the first service was at 10k! You have to wonder where all the swarf etc from the machining etc etc was going. To be fair they are on a three year agreement and never “buy” a car so couldn’t care less. If it was me I would be minded to change the oil early on.

I aim to keep my cars as long as possible. My dad had a Nissan Sunny in the mid 90’s. When it went to scrap it never missed a beat, started straight away even then and never burnt a drop of oil. Only died due to excessive corrosion. My BMW used to drink the stuff and I believe their bikes do too.

Yeah pretty much just that. On the Jumbo 3 mins or 5 mins after start prior to take off, depends how long they’ve been sitting. Shut down you have to run at idle for couple of mins to stabilise, similar principle to a turbo charger. Keeping cool isnt a problem. They’re extremely stable when functioning correctly.

Moose:

Juddian:

newmercman:
There are two things I never do, one is buy a toothpaste recommended by dentists and the other is listen to manufacturer’s recommendations on engine life, both for the same reason.

Juddian, quite agree, I’ve a Ford ranger 3.2 which has 20000 mile service intervals, the bloody oil filter is the size of a thimble, absolute crap, I change at 10000, I don’t give a toss what the dealership says!
As for warming an engine I always let them run a bit before driving off and always will, I also let them cool for a couple of mins before switching off, can’t be doing with all these experts that say no need in a modern engine, many of which have never even seen inside a modern engine! The things are built as cheap as possible to last just long enough!

Sensible chap, same here, half the suggested mileage which works out twice a year, and i too warm up and cool my own vehicles as well as the lorry.
Bought in bulk packs when on offer oil is cheap, a bloody sight cheaper than turbos/engines.

On another forum one of the lads reckoned the new Transit has 36000 mile service intervals, somehow i don’t think the sump plug threads are going to wear out before that goes pop.

I quite fancied the 3.2 Ranger, would you recommend it?

Carryfast:

Freight Dog:
Says this in my car manual. So Carryfast is disagreeing directly with this from German engineers. I suspect this won’t lead to any agreement :smiley: . I’ll stick with my manual.

So how do you accelerate a loaded truck on an entry slip road from a motorway services for example to a safe merging speed without applying a considerable load to the engine,going strictly by those instructions ?.The same could apply in the case of entering and exiting roundabouts and numerous other situations in which trying to avoid engine load would create a hazard to other traffic.

Moving at a proper and sedate pace in the majority of service areas, the engine could well be sufficiently warm by time you got to the slip. On the coldest days in a stone cold cab, you’ll probably spend several minutes idling just to clear the windscreen and the mirrors.

And realistically, most driver’s days start in a yard, uncoupled, so you’re often not less than 15 minutes away from a fast road when you first turn the key. Many yards are effectively a minimum of several minutes to the give-way line at the yard exit, never mind a fast road.

Taking it further, even in yards where things tend to be ready to go out the gate (unusual in itself), and the gate itself is in front of you and doesn’t have a security house, barrier, or a queue, fast roads are rarely outside the gate but instead you’re wending your way through an industrial estate, waiting at junctions, and moving at moderate pace on town roads - I really can’t think of an example from personal experience where this was not the case.

That’s why if you follow the advice of the manual in just not caring about the engine, in most cases the normal pattern of work (executed by a safe and competent driver) means that the engine is not immediately exposed to sustained full loads at high revs and is getting a chance to limber up.

newmercman:
So you’re a dentist and you recommend a product that removes the need for dental work, yeah that makes sense, all the years of study down the plughole thanks to a tube of Colgate. It’s a bit like a Turkey getting excited about Xmas.

It’s surely a mistake to assume that no dentist has a shred of professional integrity and would rather create work for themselves.

My dentist has never argued against regular brushing using toothpaste, and I imagine, being the slightly ■■■■-retentive sort who makes a good dentist, that he would prefer the bulk of his work to consist of checkups and scale-and-polishes with patients who turn up on time and whose mouths are in good order, not filling a smelly mouthful of rotten teeth, whatever the profits that could be made from doing so. :laughing:

bazza123:
Freightdog: what procedures do you have for your jet engines? When I’ve been on an aircraft they seem to start up just before the push back and are switched off very quickly after arrival at the gate. Do you rely on the thousands of litres a minute of air sucked in to act as cooling for certain components?

Re cars I was the subject of much hilarity by someone I know recently when I had the cheek to suggest they might want to get their car’s oil changed after the first few hundred miles (brand new VW diesel…). Apparently there was no need for this and the first service was at 10k! You have to wonder where all the swarf etc from the machining etc etc was going. To be fair they are on a three year agreement and never “buy” a car so couldn’t care less. If it was me I would be minded to change the oil early on.

There shouldn’t be “machining swarf” in a new engine nowadays, and you’d expect the oil and the filter to be capable of removing anything undesirable. Engines are flushed, started, and tested at the factory, before they are even put into a vehicle.

As far as I know, an early oil change for a new engine has only ever been recommended because it’s recognised that the oil will be loaded with residues more quickly during the early part of its life, but both engine and oil technology has probably reached the point where the oil is fine for 10k miles.

Given the complexity of an engine and the cost of servicing it or replacing it, no sane manufacturer wants to give advice (or embark on a policy) that unnecessarily reduces the lifetime of its engines beneath that of the car as a whole. If anything, they want the whole thing to degrade and for the car to slowly die of a thousand minor cuts until the consumer decides to get rid of it, not for something as totemic as the engine to go, which forces the consumer to get rid of (or splash a huge lump of cash all at once on) what might otherwise seem a serviceable and valuable vehicle.

If you are in a conspiratorial mood, they have every bit as much incentive to recommend more frequent oil changes than necessary, so that their dealer networks rake income in (which, even if not going directly to the manufacturer, encourages their dealers to sell cars at a lower up-front markup and shift more of them), they get the chance to look things over more regularly and catch failing parts before they become major and expensive to fix, and to give them an excuse to void or dispute warranties when customers don’t engage in regular servicing.

I aim to keep my cars as long as possible. My dad had a Nissan Sunny in the mid 90’s. When it went to scrap it never missed a beat, started straight away even then and never burnt a drop of oil. Only died due to excessive corrosion. My BMW used to drink the stuff and I believe their bikes do too.

In other words, the engine had been over-maintained relative to the life of the vehicle as a whole! :laughing:

Juddian:
Sensible chap, same here, half the suggested mileage which works out twice a year, and i too warm up and cool my own vehicles as well as the lorry.
Bought in bulk packs when on offer oil is cheap, a bloody sight cheaper than turbos/engines.

So you take all this care and ■■■■ the expense, then buy cheap oil? :laughing:

My service interval is surprisingly lenient for the type 12000/2 years. Conversely most owners in the know and that specialist I previously mentioned recommend at least the oil change every year or 6000 miles. I intend to myself. It’s meant to be fed only one oil, mobile 1. Which happens to be annoyingly pricey :open_mouth: :smiley: . Don’t think I’ll chance Halfords home brew :smiley:

Rjan my dentist remark was tongue in cheek to an extent. Obviously manufacturers will give good advice as they will soon lose customers if they tell you to ruin their engines in the hope of gaining more sales.

As I pointed out, my operation is outside the norm, one, I run in extreme cold conditions for a significant part of the year and two, I’m grossing up to 63.5tons. So my story is based in that. However as I also said, I have oil samples analysed after every oil change and those numbers are coming back on the better side of good, so 15mins idling before starting is not having a detrimental effect on my engines and I have that in black and white.

The two engines I’m referring too are chalk and cheese, one is a 2002 vintage remanufactured by CAT with no emission control systems whatsoever, fresh air in and exhaust gas out, it doesn’t even have a silencer to retain exhaust deposits. The other is a Volvo D13 with VGT, EGR, DPF and SCR, basically all the alphabet soup of things that go wrong on a modern engine, the oil samples for both are almost identical and they’re using different viscosity oils and the Volvo has half a million miles on it compared to the 50,000 on the CAT since it had new internals.

So yes, I’m doing it the right way, but am I doing it the ONLY right way? No, I’m in no doubt about that. There is no single answer to this conundrum, even the manufacturers say that there is no NEED to warm up, they are not say DON’T warm up.

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Easy answer NMM , especially at this time of year , just leave it running all night and on high idle too . Nice and warm when you come from the hotel room and get ready to roll . :unamused: :smiley:

newmercman:
So yes, I’m doing it the right way

Well, there’s always the possibility that the oil samples are good despite your actions, not thanks to. And 63.5 tons is not that that big of a deal, around here lorries are running at 74tons at -40 degrees celsius.