Freight Dog:
Franglais:
Freight Dog:
muckles:
Even the gliders I flew we made sure we had the engine nicely warmed up and hang the fuel cost. [emoji38][emoji38]
Am I being a wee bit pedantic? Search for
“Self launch gliders”.Sent from my GT-S7275R using Tapatalk
No you’re dead right. I took it as a joke, made me laugh anyway
You took it in the way that I wrote it. 
muckles:
Freight Dog:
Franglais:
Freight Dog:
muckles:
Even the gliders I flew we made sure we had the engine nicely warmed up and hang the fuel cost. [emoji38][emoji38]
Am I being a wee bit pedantic? Search for
“Self launch gliders”.Sent from my GT-S7275R using Tapatalk
No you’re dead right. I took it as a joke, made me laugh anyway
You took it in the way that I wrote it. [emoji38]
OK. No sense of humour, me.
Excuse for some interesting stuff tho? The jet engined glider is impressive. I had a close look at an older self launch. That had summat slightly bigger than a lawn mower engine. The starter was a handle and lanyard on the dashboard! Rate of climb? Not a lot.
Was involved slightly with a Pilotus Porter. IIRC it had a turbo prop. There was discussion (not involving me) about risk of damage due to thermal inequalities and rapid cooling: it was used to get to about 12,000ft asap then down asap. Ended up with the pilot levelling out on descent and giving it some fuel. Climbed quicker than my DAF, but didn’t have the payload.
Sent from my GT-S7275R using Tapatalk
Freight Dog:
muckles:
Even the gliders I flew we made sure we had the engine nicely warmed up and hang the fuel cost.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
did they not invent them in ww2 and call them v1 doodlebugs?
my grandad used to tell me they made so much noise that he used to have to tear the sleeves off of his waistcoats and tie them round his ears.
Franglais:
Freight Dog:
Franglais:
Am I being a wee bit pedantic? Search for
“Self launch gliders”.Sent from my GT-S7275R using Tapatalk
No you’re dead right. I took it as a joke, made me laugh anyway
OK. No sense of humour, me.
Yep I thought better of you
Franglais:
Excuse for some interesting stuff tho? The jet engined glider is impressive. I had a close look at an older self launch. That had summat slightly bigger than a lawn mower engine. The starter was a handle and lanyard on the dashboard! Rate of climb? Not a lot.
Was involved slightly with a Pilotus Porter. IIRC it had a turbo prop. There was discussion (not involving me) about risk of damage due to thermal inequalities and rapid cooling: it was used to get to about 12,000ft asap then down asap. Ended up with the pilot levelling out on descent and giving it some fuel. Climbed quicker than my DAF, but didn’t have the payload.Sent from my GT-S7275R using Tapatalk
My first Gliding Experiences and Powered Flying was with the Air Cadets, We flew in Venture glider, but I don’t think the climb rate anywhere near the Pilotus Porter, the take off seemed to be head down the grass runway bouncing at increasingly higher rates until it bounced so high it didn’t come down again, I reckon the wings flapping had more to do with it getting off the ground than the forward speed provided by the engine.
Now winch launching that’s much more like playing at Top Gun, gone was side by side seating in an aircraft that was a canvas covered bicycle frame, but now a sleek design with a fighter style bubble canopy and pinned to the back of the seat in what seemed like a vertical climb. Screaming “I feel the Need, the need for speed”.
I have always warmed up a truck whilst doing my walk round, wiping the mirrors etc, and i always do it to my car ( de-icing etc ), and i have a seperate heater for de-misting…but Mercedes say not to idle for long periods, yet its a practice i always do even though the big 320 lump doesnt show any temp until its had a drive for a bit…old habits die hard eh.
muckles:
Franglais:
Freight Dog:
Franglais:
Am I being a wee bit pedantic? Search for
“Self launch gliders”.Sent from my GT-S7275R using Tapatalk
No you’re dead right. I took it as a joke, made me laugh anyway
OK. No sense of humour, me.
Yep I thought better of you [emoji38]
Franglais:
Excuse for some interesting stuff tho? The jet engined glider is impressive. I had a close look at an older self launch. That had summat slightly bigger than a lawn mower engine. The starter was a handle and lanyard on the dashboard! Rate of climb? Not a lot.
Was involved slightly with a Pilotus Porter. IIRC it had a turbo prop. There was discussion (not involving me) about risk of damage due to thermal inequalities and rapid cooling: it was used to get to about 12,000ft asap then down asap. Ended up with the pilot levelling out on descent and giving it some fuel. Climbed quicker than my DAF, but didn’t have the payload.Sent from my GT-S7275R using Tapatalk
My first Gliding Experiences and Powered Flying was with the Air Cadets, We flew in Venture glider, but I don’t think the climb rate anywhere near the Pilotus Porter, the take off seemed to be head down the grass runway bouncing at increasingly higher rates until it bounced so high it didn’t come down again, I reckon the wings flapping had more to do with it getting off the ground than the forward speed provided by the engine. [emoji38]
Now winch launching that’s much more like playing at Top Gun, gone was side by side seating in an aircraft that was a canvas covered bicycle frame, but now a sleek design with a fighter style bubble canopy and pinned to the back of the seat in what seemed like a vertical climb. Screaming “I feel the Need, the need for speed”. [emoji38]
Only once went in a glider. That was a older side by side on a winch launch. As you say the rate of climb left my stomach on the grass while my head was approaching a thousand feet. Unfortunately the weather didn’t produce any lift and (one thing and another) never been again.
Back in the day apart from glider engines we used to talk about VW radiators in the time of Beetles and Combis?
Sent from my GT-S7275R using Tapatalk
dieseldog999:
Freight Dog:
muckles:
Even the gliders I flew we made sure we had the engine nicely warmed up and hang the fuel cost.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
did they not invent them in ww2 and call them v1 doodlebugs?
my grandad used to tell me they made so much noise that he used to have to tear the sleeves off of his waistcoats and tie them round his ears.
. I love wartime stories. My Grandad said whenever a bombing raid was taking place in London, they’d all clamour under the kitchen table in their home in St Albans 
. Joking aside, must have been terrifying. Bombing raid that is, not crawling under a kitchen table.
Carryfast:
Rjan:
I’m not sure I’m aware of what the difference is between optimum protection and optimum circulation.Using the Lanc as an extreme example.IE needs a 100 grade engine oil at its normal running temp.So we bring that down to 15 grade to aid better circulation from cold.You’re saying we can now apply full load from cold with a 15 grade oil in an engine which needs 100 grade ?.
No it needs 100 grade at operating temperature. Evidently, when cold, it needs a 15 grade.
Remember, colder oils are more viscous. That’s the whole reason why you use a lighter oil at lower operating temperatures, or use a multi-viscosity oil so that the viscosity remains more stable across the full temperature range of the engine.
The lubrication quality is the same in either case.
Carryfast:
As for synthetic motor oils they seem to be one of the GTL formulas like GTL diesel fuel not a crude oil distillate ? and it’s their potential viscosity ‘range’ which is the clever bit.I use 10/60 in the Jag which again is all about the top figure IE miraculous oil pressure figures and obviously good protection levels under high load at the type of running temperatures which only an old school Jag V12 can create.The lower figure probably being inferior regarding actual protection at lower temperature to the old 20/50 grade stuff.But again that lower figure being all about getting it around the engine quickly from cold rather than the outright level of protection when it’s done it.
But it only takes seconds to get the oil around the engine, not 15 minutes! As soon as the system is pressurised, oil should be flowing through all bearing surfaces.
Using a 10 grade oil when 20 is called for, will not lead to better penetration of the oil (since the oil should always be thin enough to penetrate), it will lead to the oil potentially being too thin to support the bearing loads.
You always want the thickest oil possible, just short of it being unable to penetrate the tolerances between parts.
Most likely all is happening is that the 10/60 grade you’re using is that it is still comfortably within the requirements of the engine, but costing you a pretty penny more than 20/50.
newmercman:
Rjan, weight is important in the real world, yes I could fire up my engine and get that 60tons + and the drag of 9axles moving without putting the engine under full load, however in the real world it would make me a hazard to other road users and take a similar time to letting it idle up to temperature and then driving normally.I also run at high idle, up to 1000rpms, once the oil pressure drops to normal, the rpms go up. As I said, I have solid data from my oil samples that prove that I’m doing the right thing by my engines, my wear metals are low and oxidation and niration are almost non existent. A 15min warm up uses around 2litres of fuel, so approx 500litres annualy.
For me with two lorries that’s worth every penny, but for a company with 100 lorries that’s 50,000litres, 500 lorries and it’s 250,000litres, that’s a lot of money and if you’re running a 3yr replacement cycle, it doesn’t really matter if you take a bit of life out of the engine, it will be somebody else’s problem by then.
Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
All fair points, and I take your point that, given that you have good reasons to use a standard engine which is designed for 40 tons (because such engines are mass-market, as opposed to the cost of a specialist engine which would have a limited market and cost more to produce), and you’re imposing full-throttle immediately, perhaps you have a good reason for warming up, just so the engine isn’t knackered in a couple of years under such large loads.
But in general, if it’s costing you £1000 a year (and that’s just the fuel cost, not the cost of additional time and travelling, and engine stop/start cycles, to refuel more frequently), then after 10 years you’ve spent a down payment on a new vehicle.
There’s no point keeping the engine going for 30 years, if by 10 years time everything else about the vehicle is clapped out and unreliable, and you’re stuck with an inefficient engine.
That is why the big boys replace every 3 years, because what they lose in capital, they save in running costs and reliability, and gain in modern vehicle features, and maintain a consistent fleet of vehicles that are easier and simpler to maintain.
Rjan:
Carryfast:
As for synthetic motor oils they seem to be one of the GTL formulas like GTL diesel fuel not a crude oil distillate ? and it’s their potential viscosity ‘range’ which is the clever bit.I use 10/60 in the Jag which again is all about the top figure IE miraculous oil pressure figures and obviously good protection levels under high load at the type of running temperatures which only an old school Jag V12 can create.The lower figure probably being inferior regarding actual protection at lower temperature to the old 20/50 grade stuff.But again that lower figure being all about getting it around the engine quickly from cold rather than the outright level of protection when it’s done it.But it only takes seconds to get the oil around the engine, not 15 minutes! As soon as the system is pressurised, oil should be flowing through all bearing surfaces.
Using a 10 grade oil when 20 is called for, will not lead to better penetration of the oil (since the oil should always be thin enough to penetrate), it will lead to the oil potentially being too thin to support the bearing loads.
You always want the thickest oil possible, just short of it being unable to penetrate the tolerances between parts.
Most likely all is happening is that the 10/60 grade you’re using is that it is still comfortably within the requirements of the engine, but costing you a pretty penny more than 20/50.
That’s exactly what I said. 
10-15 grade is too thin to sustain any considerable engine load.But 20 grade doesn’t flow as good when it’s cold but arguably it’s still good enough while providing better protection.So ideally I’d use a 20/60 but unfortunately I have to accept the low 10 grade that I don’t need to get the 60 grade which I do.Bearing in mind that the manufacturer ( TWR ) also actually specified the 10/60 option in this specific case .
In either case the safest answer is to avoid loading up the engine until the engine/water temperatures and tolerances and oil spec have reached a reasonable point and the best way to avoid engine load is to …idle/high idle the engine. 
That obviously doesn’t mean leave it unnecessarily sitting ticking over for too long because ideally you then want the air flow going through the radiators when the stats have opened.
Rjan:
newmercman:
Rjan, weight is important in the real world, yes I could fire up my engine and get that 60tons + and the drag of 9axles moving without putting the engine under full load, however in the real world it would make me a hazard to other road users and take a similar time to letting it idle up to temperature and then driving normally.I also run at high idle, up to 1000rpms, once the oil pressure drops to normal, the rpms go up. As I said, I have solid data from my oil samples that prove that I’m doing the right thing by my engines, my wear metals are low and oxidation and niration are almost non existent. A 15min warm up uses around 2litres of fuel, so approx 500litres annualy.
For me with two lorries that’s worth every penny, but for a company with 100 lorries that’s 50,000litres, 500 lorries and it’s 250,000litres, that’s a lot of money and if you’re running a 3yr replacement cycle, it doesn’t really matter if you take a bit of life out of the engine, it will be somebody else’s problem by then.
Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
All fair points, and I take your point that, given that you have good reasons to use a standard engine which is designed for 40 tons (because such engines are mass-market, as opposed to the cost of a specialist engine which would have a limited market and cost more to produce), and you’re imposing full-throttle immediately, perhaps you have a good reason for warming up, just so the engine isn’t knackered in a couple of years under such large loads.
But in general, if it’s costing you £1000 a year (and that’s just the fuel cost, not the cost of additional time and travelling, and engine stop/start cycles, to refuel more frequently), then after 10 years you’ve spent a down payment on a new vehicle.
There’s no point keeping the engine going for 30 years, if by 10 years time everything else about the vehicle is clapped out and unreliable, and you’re stuck with an inefficient engine.
That is why the big boys replace every 3 years, because what they lose in capital, they save in running costs and reliability, and gain in modern vehicle features, and maintain a consistent fleet of vehicles that are easier and simpler to maintain.
Do you have relatives in Leatherhead?
Now you’ve opened up a whole new can of worms, namely your argument of keeping a well maintained lorry against a three year replacement cycle. This is a race in which I have a horse in each stable.
First of all, as you quoted me, I will address your comment about specialist engines. It’s pretty simple, there are none, you cannot get a specialist engine for heavy haul work, you can tailor the gearing to suit, but that’s it and in my particular case I have to compromise here as my work is all on highway at regular highway speeds and unless I start adding auxiliary transmissions, I have to make do with normal gearing.
Now to the most cost effective way of running a lorry in today’s world. Unless you run into an LEZ, there is no reason to prevent anybody running an older lorry, I don’t, so that allows me a greater choice.
Lorry number one.
A new current model. Cost new including warranty $180,000. 6mpg, maintenance costs including tyres over the past three years 500,000miles have been as follows.
New turbo $6,000
New cylinder head $16,000
Starter motor $700
New heater matrix $800
New expansion tank $600
Various emission sensors $4,000
DPF clean $1,500
New batteries $600
Servicing and chassis lube $8,000
Tyres, 6 steers and 8 drives $8,000
Residual value of the lorry today is $50,000
Approximate cost $176200. Roughly $0.35 per mile.
Now an older lorry, without all the emission crap and components that are built to last for three to five years and that last part is very important as that is how lorries are built these days. In my case I bought a brand new older lorry and for the purposes of this exercise I will use the data from my uncle’s lorry as it’s basically the same as what I have now, but an original version. I will use the price I paid and the used value of his.
Lorry number two.
Cost $240,000. 6mpg. Maintenance costs over 1,400,000miles as follows.
Servicing and chassis lube $35,000
Tyres 12 steers 16 drives $16,000
Miscellaneous parts $20,000
Residual value $70,000
Approximately $0.17cpm
Add $10,000 for idle fuel to warm up the older lorry and that changes to $0.18cpm if you round the numbers up to the third decimal. Now let’s say that the older lorry has been a bit of a dog and needed $20,000 of parts and repairs each year, it still comes out at $0.25cpm.
So it isn’t more economical to run a 3yr replacement cycle, no way, numbers do not lie, the reason the big boys do it is not because of factors that will be experienced by owner drivers or small fleets, but because they need drivers and drivers want new lorries these days, they also get lease deals that you and I can only dream about, so just because it works for Maritime, Stobart, Wincanton, XPO etc, that doesn’t mean it will work for you and me.
And because of that, I will carry on idling my engine up to temperature before I set off up the road and the $0.10cpm will stay in my pocket.
Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
newmercman:
Do you have relatives in Leatherhead?Now you’ve opened up a whole new can of worms, namely your argument of keeping a well maintained lorry against a three year replacement cycle. This is a race in which I have a horse in each stable.
First of all, as you quoted me, I will address your comment about specialist engines. It’s pretty simple, there are none, you cannot get a specialist engine for heavy haul work, you can tailor the gearing to suit, but that’s it and in my particular case I have to compromise here as my work is all on highway at regular highway speeds and unless I start adding auxiliary transmissions, I have to make do with normal gearing.
Now to the most cost effective way of running a lorry in today’s world. Unless you run into an LEZ, there is no reason to prevent anybody running an older lorry, I don’t, so that allows me a greater choice.
Lorry number one.
A new current model. Cost new including warranty $180,000. 6mpg, maintenance costs including tyres over the past three years 500,000miles have been as follows.
New turbo $6,000
New cylinder head $16,000
Starter motor $700
New heater matrix $800
New expansion tank $600
Various emission sensors $4,000
DPF clean $1,500
New batteries $600
Servicing and chassis lube $8,000
Tyres, 6 steers and 8 drives $8,000
Residual value of the lorry today is $50,000
Approximate cost $176200. Roughly $0.35 per mile.Now an older lorry, without all the emission crap and components that are built to last for three to five years and that last part is very important as that is how lorries are built these days. In my case I bought a brand new older lorry and for the purposes of this exercise I will use the data from my uncle’s lorry as it’s basically the same as what I have now, but an original version. I will use the price I paid and the used value of his.
Lorry number two.
Cost $240,000. 6mpg. Maintenance costs over 1,400,000miles as follows.
Servicing and chassis lube $35,000
Tyres 12 steers 16 drives $16,000
Miscellaneous parts $20,000
Residual value $70,000
Approximately $0.17cpmAdd $10,000 for idle fuel to warm up the older lorry and that changes to $0.18cpm if you round the numbers up to the third decimal. Now let’s say that the older lorry has been a bit of a dog and needed $20,000 of parts and repairs each year, it still comes out at $0.25cpm.
So it isn’t more economical to run a 3yr replacement cycle, no way, numbers do not lie, the reason the big boys do it is not because of factors that will be experienced by owner drivers or small fleets, but because they need drivers and drivers want new lorries these days, they also get lease deals that you and I can only dream about, so just because it works for Maritime, Stobart, Wincanton, XPO etc, that doesn’t mean it will work for you and me.
And because of that, I will carry on idling my engine up to temperature before I set off up the road and the $0.10cpm will stay in my pocket.
Blimey ironically I totally agree with you and not Rjan. 
He must be the black sheep of the family then Carryfast lol
Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
newmercman:
Rjan:
…First of all, as you quoted me, I will address your comment about specialist engines. It’s pretty simple, there are none, you cannot get a specialist engine for heavy haul work, you can tailor the gearing to suit, but that’s it and in my particular case I have to compromise here as my work is all on highway at regular highway speeds and unless I start adding auxiliary transmissions, I have to make do with normal gearing.
Agreed. By using what is effectively an under-specified engine (and vehicle) for the workload, I can see that it perhaps becomes economical (against the fuel cost) to take special care of the engine, because otherwise it may be knackered long before proper time.
Now to the most cost effective way of running a lorry in today’s world. Unless you run into an LEZ, there is no reason to prevent anybody running an older lorry, I don’t, so that allows me a greater choice.
That is a key point too, that if every haulier was trying to keep their engines going 30 years, there would be even more political intervention to penalise them for using old, dirty, engines which everybody’s lungs have to pay for. Whereas at the moment, the government can leave the question alone, and let older vehicles retire naturally or be sold on to the third world.
Large companies may well perform dynamical economic analyses like that, which accounts for the political risk of their policies - so if the big hauliers (who have a high volume of vehicles between them) suddenly decide to keep their vehicles going for 30 years and instruct their drivers systematically to idle the engines up to operating temperature, they have to account for the fact that there may eventually be intervention which will penalise them for having embarked on such a course against the common interest, which isn’t a risk if only a small number of specialist hauliers are embarking on that course.
Lorry number one.
A new current model. Cost new including warranty $180,000. 6mpg, maintenance costs including tyres over the past three years 500,000miles have been as follows.
New turbo $6,000
New cylinder head $16,000
Starter motor $700
New heater matrix $800
New expansion tank $600
Various emission sensors $4,000
DPF clean $1,500
New batteries $600
Servicing and chassis lube $8,000
Tyres, 6 steers and 8 drives $8,000
Residual value of the lorry today is $50,000
Approximate cost $176200. Roughly $0.35 per mile.Now an older lorry, without all the emission crap and components that are built to last for three to five years and that last part is very important as that is how lorries are built these days. In my case I bought a brand new older lorry and for the purposes of this exercise I will use the data from my uncle’s lorry as it’s basically the same as what I have now, but an original version. I will use the price I paid and the used value of his.
Lorry number two.
Cost $240,000. 6mpg. Maintenance costs over 1,400,000miles as follows.
Servicing and chassis lube $35,000
Tyres 12 steers 16 drives $16,000
Miscellaneous parts $20,000
Residual value $70,000
Approximately $0.17cpm
Can of worms indeed.
I’m not a vehicle trader, but I struggle to understand how an older lorry with 3 times as many miles as a newer one, has a residual today which is $20k (are you working in dollars?) higher than the newer lorry - unless it’s worth that in some sort of special low-volume market, where high prices are precisely a function of their rarity (i.e. the fact that most people are not molly-coddling their vehicles and keeping them going for decades). If the big boys were all keeping their vehicles going longer, the bottom would drop out of this market, because there would be a greater abundance of old vehicles around, and the newer vehicles would have higher residuals due to rarity (and correspondingly, the lower residual of the newer vehicle today, is probably because there are more of them on the market due to the 3-year replacement policies of major users).
And any way you cut it, the new lorry has had costs, but added together those costs have not even reached the brand new cost of the older lorry in cash terms (and that’s without an adjustment for inflation, which would make the original purchase price of a $240k vehicle ten years ago cost about $318k today, against the cost of a new vehicle which you quote as $180k).
And, I would seriously like to think that the costs you’ve faced so far, for new cylinder heads and turbos, won’t be experienced again twice more before you get to 1.5million miles. So your overall costs of running (per mile driven) may drop as the new vehicle does more miles - we’ll only be able to tell for sure in the future.
Also, you’re factoring in costs on which pre-heating the engine probably has no bearing at all, or the cost of maintaining emissions equipment that doesn’t even exist on the older vehicle (and again, is probably not affected beneficially by idling up to temperature). The newer vehicle might be using tyres, batteries, and starter motors at a higher rate, but so perhaps would any vehicle of that model, whether it was idled up to operating temperature or not. We’re talking about the economic sense of idling - not about the economics of a throwaway engineering vs durable engineering.
Add $10,000 for idle fuel to warm up the older lorry and that changes to $0.18cpm if you round the numbers up to the third decimal. Now let’s say that the older lorry has been a bit of a dog and needed $20,000 of parts and repairs each year, it still comes out at $0.25cpm.
So it isn’t more economical to run a 3yr replacement cycle, no way, numbers do not lie, the reason the big boys do it is not because of factors that will be experienced by owner drivers or small fleets, but because they need drivers and drivers want new lorries these days, they also get lease deals that you and I can only dream about, so just because it works for Maritime, Stobart, Wincanton, XPO etc, that doesn’t mean it will work for you and me.
Drivers want new lorries because they’re generally better and more comfortable. Some old pre-war Rolls Royce may go forever, but by god I wouldn’t want to be using 12 hours a day in stop-go traffic. Not just because I like creature comfort, but because my arms and knees, and even my hearing, would be knackered before time. And if everyone was doing it, London and the other major cities would be back to having smog like pea-soup, and we’d all be keeling over with cancers and other lung problems. The gap in the market for the small haulier running old vehicles, if indeed the gap exists, exists precisely because the major players are not following the same calculations - because if they were, new rules would be introduced which would change the calculation.
And because of that, I will carry on idling my engine up to temperature before I set off up the road and the $0.10cpm will stay in my pocket.
But even you can see that your gains are, apparently, only because the newer lorry has inferior build quality overall - perhaps not in relation to general use (I can’t believe that most new vehicles, no matter how little cared for by their drivers, are having their cylinder heads replaced every 500k miles), but in your particular strenuous use. A newer vehicle with an easier life so far, may have matched (or exceeded) the repair costs of an old vehicle which had also had an easy life.
And like I say, putting aside the consequential losses of poor reliability (less of a concern for companies that run larger fleets, with slack to account for any particular vehicle spending an odd couple of days off the road during repairs), the old vehicle cost around 75% more to buy in real terms as the new vehicle!
Just my 2pence worth! Diesels run so cool nowadays, that our 2010 VW Touran was fitted with what’s known by Touran ‘aficionados’ as a ‘Webasto’. Now, most people who’ve been involved with trucks for any length of time, will know that Webasto, along with Eberspacher, are known for (amongst other things I guess) night heaters. And that’s pretty much what it is. It’s a supplementary heater in the engine bay that cuts in on startup below about 5°, to warm the cabin heating quicker, as the engine runs too cold to do so that quickly in colder weather!
So, by that, I guess that they expect their engines to run cold.
I used the price I paid in July this year, so the numbers I used are relevant today. Yes the lorry is a rarity, it would appeal to probably one buyer in a hundred, but I’ll only need one buyer if I sell it.
Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
Get the engine under load to warm the cylinders.Otherwise the coolant keeps the cylinder walls cold and atomised fuel can get past the piston rings diluting the engine oil.Also liquid fuel acts as an abrasive which polishes the bores and rings reducing compression.
Bking:
Get the engine under load to warm the cylinders.Otherwise the coolant keeps the cylinder walls cold and atomised fuel can get past the piston rings diluting the engine oil.Also liquid fuel acts as an abrasive which polishes the bores and rings reducing compression.
Great idea we want to minimise the fuel input while it’s warming up so let’s put the engine under load.Have you thought that idea through bearing in mind how a fuel map works. While if it takes load to warm up the cylinders why do we need bleedin great big fans to keep an idling engine cool while it’s stationary.Let alone when the thermostats are closed with no circulation at all to the radiator/oil cooler. 
Bking:
Get the engine under load to warm the cylinders.Otherwise the coolant keeps the cylinder walls cold and atomised fuel can get past the piston rings diluting the engine oil.Also liquid fuel acts as an abrasive which polishes the bores and rings reducing compression.
Somewhat confusing comment above:
I thought high pressure fuel pumps rely on the lubricating properties of diesel fuel (so fail when cars are mis-fuelled with petrol).
How is it that the same fuel manages to become an abrasive in cylinders? Also, polished rings and cylinder walls should improve compression shouldn’t they? That’s how it works in air-rifles, hydraulic cylinders etc isn’t it?