the maoster:
Anything related to two wheels (helmet, leathers, gloves, tyres etc) the best money can buy. MY car not so much; I do less than 50 miles a week, all on country roads, never carry passengers and like to giggle like a child when it starts to slide!
My g/f works in the motor trade and ends up with a brand new car every month or so until it’s sold, and that’s the car we travel any distance in so it’s whatever the factory fit.
Not ridden on the road for years mate as quite simply I can’t be trusted and the inner chimp in me comes out! So I took up racing, had some success, so ended up riding whatever my sponsors paid for . Got an 07 Blade rusting away in the corner of my garage that hasn’t moved a wheel in ten years.
Not ridden on the road for years mate as quite simply I can’t be trusted and the inner chimp in me comes out! So I took up racing, had some success, so ended up riding whatever my sponsors paid for . Got an 07 Blade rusting away in the corner of my garage that hasn’t moved a wheel in ten years.
ha ha know what you mean with the inner chimp coming out. Road racing or any racing and the hse chimp would come out in me, would terrify the life out of me that, my brain wouldnt react fast enough to those speeds.
Mine sometimes didn’t , hence I tend to set off airport metal detectors
Edit to add; case in point below. The worst part is was actually instructing a track day and told the students to follow me for a lap. Four did, literally
the maoster:
Mine sometimes didn’t , hence I tend to set off airport metal detectors
Edit to add; case in point below. The worst part is was actually instructing a track day and told the students to follow me for a lap. Four did, literally
The biggest differences from premium to budget tyres tend to be how long they last and the thing I look for the braking distances. The difference in braking distance can be a few car lengths so its the difference in rear ending a car in front or stopping with space to spare.
mrginge:
The biggest differences from premium to budget tyres tend to be how long they last and the thing I look for the braking distances. The difference in braking distance can be a few car lengths so its the difference in rear ending a car in front or stopping with space to spare.
When you’ve been used to upper mid range and top end ones and go to budgets you really can tell the difference. Road noise, ride quality, braking and wet performance are all worse and often fuel economy is too or if they have decent fuel economy they can’t make it round a corner. I remember putting one set of budgets National Tyres were doing on my Capri once, four for £130 offer, and on a baking hot summer day it power slid out of a roundabout even though I was only accelerating normally with all of 88BHP. They got binned and replaced within the week.
The price difference between a mid range and a top end doesn’t make it worth saving the money, you’re literally talking the equivalent of a couple of packs of ■■■■ a corner. You’re typically talking barely £40 a corner between Wongtong Yeehah Best Moon Rising budget asian crap and a Michelin/Goodyear/Continental for anything that’s not a performance car.
I like my Goodyear 4 Seasons, a nice all round tyre and much better than a normal tyre in winter not just for the snow and ice performance but the wet too. For a mid-range Kumho Ecsta are quite good albeit a bit of a noisy tyre and do seem to wear a bit quicker.
mrginge:
The difference in braking distance can be a few car lengths so its the difference in rear ending a car in front or stopping with space to spare.
…and then promptly get rear ended by the next guy with budget tyres. Seriously as professional driers we ought to rely on our driving skills and instinct/awareness to avoid situations where extreme braking is required rather than the tyre brand…
mrginge:
The difference in braking distance can be a few car lengths so its the difference in rear ending a car in front or stopping with space to spare.
…and then promptly get rear ended by the next guy with budget tyres
In the scenario a collision was probably on the cards regardless due to people driving too close. The difference is whose insurance pays out and who takes the most pain at renewal time. If you’re the one on budgets who runs into someone it’s yours, if you’re not and you stop and someone on budgets behind goes into you it’s theirs.
I don’t understand scrimping on tyres. They’re the one thing in contact with the road and keep you on it, they’re the limiting factor when it comes to braking because unless your brakes are absolutely shot no matter what car you drive they can all make a tyre break grip with the road and skid under braking.
mrginge:
The difference in braking distance can be a few car lengths so its the difference in rear ending a car in front or stopping with space to spare.
…and then promptly get rear ended by the next guy with budget tyres
In the scenario a collision was probably on the cards regardless due to people driving too close. The difference is whose insurance pays out and who takes the most pain at renewal time. If you’re the one on budgets who runs into someone it’s yours, if you’re not and you stop and someone on budgets behind goes into you it’s theirs.
I don’t understand scrimping on tyres. They’re the one thing in contact with the road and keep you on it, they’re the limiting factor when it comes to braking because unless your brakes are absolutely shot no matter what car you drive they can all make a tyre break grip with the road and skid under braking.
Conor:
I don’t understand scrimping on tyres. They’re the one thing in contact with the road and keep you on it, they’re the limiting factor when it comes to braking because unless your brakes are absolutely shot no matter what car you drive they can all make a tyre break grip with the road and skid under braking.
Only vintage cars don’t have ABS, these days.
Oh dear, someone else who doesn’t know how ABS works.
ABS only kicks in when your tyre has already started to skid. ABS does a rapid cadence braking so whilst the ABS is active when you’re braking hard your tyre will still skid but the ABS system will periodically release the brakes to allow the tyre to rotate for a short period of time to enable you to steer if needed. So when ABS is working although your tyre isn’t skidding the whole time like it would without ABS it still is for short distances. When you see skid marks on the road that are a line of dashes of tread pattern that’s caused by the ABS.
If you’ve got tyres on that are crap under braking the ABS is going to be kicking in with much less braking effort than ones that are good under braking, in some cases to the point that on the crap tyres the ABS kicks in even when braking at the same rate on decent ones it doesn’t, and that means that even with ABS you’re going to be taking longer to stop than on a decent tyre.
the maoster:
Mine sometimes didn’t , hence I tend to set off airport metal detectors
Edit to add; case in point below. The worst part is was actually instructing a track day and told the students to follow me for a lap. Four did, literally
mrginge:
The difference in braking distance can be a few car lengths so its the difference in rear ending a car in front or stopping with space to spare.
…and then promptly get rear ended by the next guy with budget tyres
In the scenario a collision was probably on the cards regardless due to people driving too close. The difference is whose insurance pays out and who takes the most pain at renewal time. If you’re the one on budgets who runs into someone it’s yours, if you’re not and you stop and someone on budgets behind goes into you it’s theirs.
I don’t understand scrimping on tyres. They’re the one thing in contact with the road and keep you on it, they’re the limiting factor when it comes to braking because unless your brakes are absolutely shot no matter what car you drive they can all make a tyre break grip with the road and skid under braking.
I don’t drive round in generic lease cars where if its involved in an accident I don’t care as the insurance company will get me a replacement. Every little helps when one of my cars (1989 Golf GTi) doesn’t have any driver aids, on my 1994 Corrado VR6 I fitted bigger brakes from a 2005 Audi S3 all round. I can’t control other drivers around me going into me but good tyres may help in a solo incident.
A major issue with the price of car tyres these days is car manufacturers themselves. At one time about 12 different sizes accounted for about 85% of the UK tyre market, so prices benefitted from economies of scale from the makers.
Nowadays though there are about 200+ sizes thanks to numb nuts car designers coming up with ever more oddball sizes. It’s virtually impossible for a modest tyre depot to stock them all.
A set of boots for my old Peugeot 406 would set me back 120. My current ride costs more than that per corner.
So let me get this – if to you tyre brand equals safety do you run to your employer to complain about budget tyres being fitted to your truck? I mean you do drive your truck maybe 10x more than your car so if anything your life is in more danger at work driving 7-8-9 hours per day 4-5 days a week compared to the 30mins-1hr daily commute in your car
I discovered cheap tyres are false economy on a lorry, a blow out will remove the lamps, spray suppression and wings, it may even take out an airbag.
On a car my mate learnt the same lesson, he put 2 part used tyres on his BMW X3. It cost him a new gearbox and 4 new tyres within a month.
It was a proper wind up! [emoji853]
Conor:
I don’t understand scrimping on tyres. They’re the one thing in contact with the road and keep you on it, they’re the limiting factor when it comes to braking because unless your brakes are absolutely shot no matter what car you drive they can all make a tyre break grip with the road and skid under braking.
Only vintage cars don’t have ABS, these days.
Oh dear, someone else who doesn’t know how ABS works.
ABS only kicks in when your tyre has already started to skid. ABS does a rapid cadence braking so whilst the ABS is active when you’re braking hard your tyre will still skid but the ABS system will periodically release the brakes to allow the tyre to rotate for a short period of time to enable you to steer if needed. So when ABS is working although your tyre isn’t skidding the whole time like it would without ABS it still is for short distances. When you see skid marks on the road that are a line of dashes of tread pattern that’s caused by the ABS.
If you’ve got tyres on that are crap under braking the ABS is going to be kicking in with much less braking effort than ones that are good under braking, in some cases to the point that on the crap tyres the ABS kicks in even when braking at the same rate on decent ones it doesn’t, and that means that even with ABS you’re going to be taking longer to stop than on a decent tyre.
Yeah whatever Connor, I reckon I’ve got a better understanding of ABS than you.
There are posts on this forum that I value and respect, so far you haven’t made one of them.