Securing a forklift in a curtainsider

Any “heavy plant” guys around?

I’d like some advice on securing a forklift inside a curtainsider. OK, it’s not that heavy, but it’s still just over 4 tonnes.

My plan is to:

  1. Drive the forklift up the middle of the trailer (so that the wheels sit on the main rails of the trailer chassis), up to a double row of pallet stacks that are wedged against the headboard. The forks go in through the pallets, until the forklift load guard is pushing against the pallets. This should help stop it moving forward.
  2. Apply the handbrake on the forklift
  3. Put a 5000 kg strap across the floor of the forklift cab, securing to either side of the trailer
  4. Run a second 5000 kg strap from a load securing ring in the floor of the trailer, about 2m behind the forklift at the side of the trailer, up to the towing eye on the back of the forklift, and down to another load securing ring at the same point on the other side of the trailer.

Do you think this is enough? Should I chock the wheels? Do I need to add more straps? Or do I need to get some chains?

I’d rather not be the cause of the Avonmouth Bridge being closed due to a shed load… :wink:

Should be fine, put a bit of a forward pull on the front strap, to balance the rear pull of the back strap. You could run a ratchet strap behind one of the wheels which will prevent it from rocking if the handbrake is U/S.

Two straps should be good, but go with your gut instinct. Belt and braces approach by putting on an extra strap is probably worth it, stops you from doubting it and that strap won’t do a lot of good in the toolbox either.

I must admit didn’t read all that but surely you treat it the same as if it was on a low loader.

Can I suggest reversing the FLT on, this will leave the forks pointing rearwards. (Less hazardous) Chocking the wheels is also advised. If you have chains and the trailer has the anchor points for chains available then I would advise that you use chains, the FLT should have anchor points marked up as to where you should connect your chains. And finally ensure you isolate the fuel for the FLT, i.e. turn fuel tap off/remove gas etc etc.

A length of rope and a guinea pig under the wheels

One thing you should ensure (and ask me how I know :blush: ) is that your trailer floor’s up to the job!

When I was with Owens, had to take an FLT from Dafen yard over to Llangennech on my old ERF EC6; they lifted it on with the big HIAB, sat it on the bed, creak, groan, through it went.

If your trailer’s got a wooden floor I’d be wary; couple of strips of checker plate screwed across the bed might be the answer.

What 8wheels said about securing it.

gnasty gnome:
One thing you should ensure (and ask me how I know :blush: ) is that your trailer floor’s up to the job!

How do you know?

I hope this helps.

Consult the DFT Code Of Practice for Safety of Loads on Vehicles :smiley:

I’m sure there’ll be some good advice in there

switchlogic:
A length of rope and a guinea pig under the wheels

if the guinea pig is too small you can use a cat or two instead

If your trailer has hooks at either end of the trailer i’d but a chain or ratchet strap depending on how sharp edges were on roof and then have one over the roof.

Sam Millar:
If your trailer has hooks at either end of the trailer i’d but a chain or ratchet strap depending on how sharp edges were on roof and then have one over the roof.

Thats not going to do you much good to be honest. A strap over the roof will only really prevent vertical movement, but a 4t forklift isn’t going to be moving up and down much, gravity will see to that. What you need to prevent is the lateral movement, easiest way to do that is a chain from the anchor points on the forklift to a fixing point in the trailer, diagonally from each corner(-ish). Tension the chains and then off you go, if you are going a reasonable distance I would stop somewhere en-route and re-tension the chains just to make sure.

Personally I would position the forklift a little forward of the leading axle of the trailer. Putting it up against the bulkhead or the back doors is putting it at the extremes of the loading deck, which may lead to potential handling issues under heavy braking.

A 4t forklift is no big deal, straps will hold it just fine. Common sense is the most important factor to be used. Go with whatever you’re comfortable with, if you can get chains and know how to and feel happiest that way then do that. Otherwise use straps. Just make sure they are tight and checking after a few miles is mo bad thing either.

When they shipped forklifts out of Caterpiller it used to be wheels chocked (these were nailed to the bed), forks removed (they usually just lift off), and two ratchet straps over wherever you felt the need. As has been mentioned you also need to be sure the bed of your truck will take the weight, most do these day but I did have one go through the floor.

Thanks for all the replies. Yes, I guess it is the same as carrying it on a low loader, but I’ve never done that either, so it doesn’t really help :confused:

Unfortunately I don’t have any chains available, so I’d only go down that route if it’s really necessary, since I’ll have to buy them.

I wasn’t planning on removing the gas tank, just turning off the valve whilst the engine is running to make sure it uses up all the fuel in the lines. I would have thought that having the gas tank secured on the FLT would be safer than removing it and trying to secure it in the trailer by some other means.

I’m not convinced that the wooden trailer floor will support the weight at the edges; that’s why I’m loading it straight down the middle of the truck because the width of the FLT is just right so that the wheels run along the main trailer chassis beams, and are therefore well-supported. As for loading just forward of the front axle, by coincidence that’s where they’d be - we have step-frame trailers, so the “headboard” is actually the step which is just behind the landing legs. A couple of rows of pallets then puts the FLT just in front of the first trailer axle.

Unfortunately I can’t remove the forks (at least, not easily) - to take them off, I have to remove the load guard, and when the load guard broke, the previous owner welded it to the carriage, rather than replacing it. :unamused:

I’ll think I’ll go with my current plan but add a couple of extra straps to prevent rearward movement and for extra peace of mind. I might see if I can get/make some chocks, though.

Sam Millar:
If your trailer has hooks at either end of the trailer i’d but a chain or ratchet strap depending on how sharp edges were on roof and then have one over the roof.

:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

are you sure about that.

jessicas dad:

Sam Millar:
If your trailer has hooks at either end of the trailer i’d but a chain or ratchet strap depending on how sharp edges were on roof and then have one over the roof.

:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

are you sure about that.

I would think Sam means the roof of the forklift and not the roof of the trailer :wink:

and i still wouldnt chuck a strap over the roof of the forklift either…

there are plenty of lashing points on a forklift without putting pressure on the roof.

When I carried them from JCB we had to strap the wheels as we were not allowed to strap through any painted surfaces, even with a Loadall it was easy enough to cross each tyre, just be careful that you are not strapping over any brake or hydraulic pipes.

If you are going on a ferry it may be wise to mention the gas cylinder and disconnect the regulator

I’m guessing that this is not a massively valuable piece of cargo in the prime of it’s youth. It’s probably been bashed and smashed and you’d be surprised how many items of plant do not have clearly marked lashing points. Hence the use what you can approach.

hook straps onto mast (on the mast runner part) and pulled straps back and secure onto eyelets or chassis.
ot
drive truck on and run a strap thru towing hook.
aslong as straps are good that should do,its the way we carry them everyday, use chocks if you want as well.