IF you need to wind off trailer brake chambers do you just use a 19mm ratchet ring wrench or is there any special workshop tool I’m unaware of that will do it quicker?
Nothing faster that I can think of.
Problem is is that you have to have air supplied to the chamber springs to be able to wind off the slack adjusters.
Easiest way is to fit the pull bar with the bayonet tab on the end into the operating plunger in the chamber and wind off the spring then you dont need to back off the brakes to move the truck or trailer.
Whenever I fit new chambers I always fit the pull bar into the carrier hole on the side of the brake chamber.
Might save somebody a lot of hassle if they have to go to the vehicle with a bad air leak that stops the spring brakes releasing and they havent brought any pull bars with them.
Or if just one chambers leaking just back it off,disconnect the emergency feed line and kink it to stop it loosing air.The truck can then be driven,as you still have all foundation brakes still working ,just down on one park brake.
On a trailer park brake chamber there is on most a threaded rod with a T head on the side of the chamber. Take this off and remove the bung in the top of of the chamber. Insert the T into the slot and turn 90 degrees. Put the washer and nut on and tighten up and this draws the spring back to keep the park brake off - in theory anyway 
If you just want to back the brake off to remove the drum just wind off the adjuster on the slack adjuster.
Ok, I know how it is done, I was after specialist workshop tools to make the job faster.
Bking:
Problem is is that you have to have air supplied to the chamber springs to be able to wind off the slack adjusters.Easiest way is to fit the pull bar with the bayonet tab on the end into the operating plunger in the chamber and wind off the spring then you dont need to back off the brakes to move the truck or trailer.
Whenever I fit new chambers I always fit the pull bar into the carrier hole on the side of the brake chamber.
Might save somebody a lot of hassle if they have to go to the vehicle with a bad air leak that stops the spring brakes releasing and they havent brought any pull bars with them.
Or if just one chambers leaking just back it off,disconnect the emergency feed line and kink it to stop it loosing air.The truck can then be driven,as you still have all foundation brakes still working ,just down on one park brake.
So what you winding it off with, your fingers? 
no special tools required to wind a brake off,
let’s see, bpw drum axle, normally fitted with bpw chambers, requires a 24mm spanner and a set of pliers to remove the split pin, the slack adjuster requires a 19mm ratchet and socket, as the adjuster is in set into the slacker, a swan neck ring spanner is the next best thing, a normal spanner you would struggle with.
most other brake chambers are 19mm.
most other slackers can be done with a good adjustable spanner, but not recommended though…
i’ll take some pictures tomorrow when i’m at work.
Ok, I know how to wind off all brake chambers using the traditional methods.
The question is does anyone know any way of speeding up the job, if there are special tools air tools etc. as it is a time consuming job?
Obviously drive axle chambers aren’t an issue as you can get a socket on but even if there was a socket deep enough for trailer chambers with a key thread sticking out there would be access problems.
I don’t know of any special tool, a deep 19mm isn’t quite long enough to wind it all the way and a ratchet spanner digs into your fingers. I made my own with an old 19mm deep impact socket and another similar sized deep impact. Cut them in unequal halves and weld the longest to the 19mm. It don’t look the prettiest tool in the box but works well on a battery impact gun lying on the hard shoulder in a puddle 
don’t mind me, just going off in a tangent in completely the wrong direction…
if there was an easier way to do it, it got to be what NNW has said, might try it if i get time this week.
Own Account Driver:
Ok,
but even if there was a socket deep enough for trailer chambers with a key thread sticking out there would be access problems.
^^^^^ This ^^ you`ve answered your question to be honest 
Although ,
You can get air ratchets , if you can find a socket deep enough and enough access room, but they tend to be under-powered and run out of breath, due to high resistance, compared to battery or air gun.
You can also purchase heavy duty battery gun (similar to air gun) , once again , socket depth and access room are issues and you end up using and finishing with a spanner anyway .
…
Start with a spanner and a tin of lube oil.
Personally i would stick with a long reach ratchet spanner and crack on . Using a spanner, you can feel the tension point when to stop winding
Using a power tool , and not feeling the point of resistance. will lead to damage and further cost and implications & if not injury also.
Being abusive with a brake chamber is not recommended- possible injury or death could occur, they are not things to be messed with.
.
Own Account Driver:
Bking:
Problem is is that you have to have air supplied to the chamber springs to be able to wind off the slack adjusters.Easiest way is to fit the pull bar with the bayonet tab on the end into the operating plunger in the chamber and wind off the spring then you dont need to back off the brakes to move the truck or trailer.
Whenever I fit new chambers I always fit the pull bar into the carrier hole on the side of the brake chamber.
Might save somebody a lot of hassle if they have to go to the vehicle with a bad air leak that stops the spring brakes releasing and they havent brought any pull bars with them.
Or if just one chambers leaking just back it off,disconnect the emergency feed line and kink it to stop it loosing air.The truck can then be driven,as you still have all foundactuallyISo what you winding it off with, your fingers?
Yes I do actually see it aint “rocket science”
I fit the red air line,press the park brake,fit the pull bar and wind the nut on with my “fingers” till its tight against the chamber body then pull off the red line
Voila one wound off brake chamber done with my fingers.Simples.
Own Account Driver:
IF you need to wind off trailer brake chambers do you just use a 19mm ratchet ring wrench or is there any special workshop tool I’m unaware of that will do it quicker?
I think we’ve been here before ,but they don’t wind them off ,they put a red line to the unit and a red and yellow to the trailer from the breakdown lorry ,in case the artic being towed comes off or the trailer comes off .
trux:
Own Account Driver:
Ok,
^^^^^ This ^^ you`ve answered your question to be honest
Although ,
You can get air ratchets , if you can find a socket deep enough and enough access room, but they tend to be under-powered and run out of breath, due to high resistance, compared to battery or air gun.
You can also purchase heavy duty battery gun (similar to air gun) , once again , socket depth and access room are issues and you end up using and finishing with a spanner anyway .
…
Start with a deep socket on battery gun then finish with spanner.
Personally i would stick with a long reach ratchet spanner and crack on . Using a spanner, you can feel the tension point when to stop windingUsing a power tool , and not feeling the point of resistance. will lead to damage and further cost and implications & if not injury also.
Being abusive with a brake chamber is not recommended- possible injury or death could occur, they are not things to be messed with.
.
Ok, (I’II try and ignore the ongoing competition of who can make the most vaguely related post on brake winding off, or recovery, that isn’t really answering the question )
Basically, I have built a special tool that will wind off chambers, that need a threaded key, in restricted access very quickly and safely in less than 10 seconds for use in my own workshop and I had been wondering if there was anything else on the market that either specifically for fleet maintenance or the recovery industry that might have passed me by before I make some more as they are costing me about £250 each to produce.
I didn’t want to say this to start in case it changed what anyone might post or it went into an argument of people saying they don’t see the point of it - which wouldn’t be relevant as it works well and saves a significant amount of time and elbow grease.
Northnorthwest:
I don’t know of any special tool, a deep 19mm isn’t quite long enough to wind it all the way and a ratchet spanner digs into your fingers. I made my own with an old 19mm deep impact socket and another similar sized deep impact. Cut them in unequal halves and weld the longest to the 19mm. It don’t look the prettiest tool in the box but works well on a battery impact gun lying on the hard shoulder in a puddle
Thanks, this is the sort of answer I was hoping for. We did have some extra deep sockets from snap on, in a similar vein, the problem we ran into was access and a lot of impact energy from the gun lost from the extra length of the socket.
Well pardon me for breathing , NO i dont know of anything else yet apart from what You know is already available .
If you already a super-fast magic tool, why do you need another 
Patent your design and get selling it on the market and assist the rest of us if its that good 
Maybe its time to start a ` MCPC ’ - (mechanics certificate of professional competence) every 5 years.
Oh, thats right , they already do one through the IMI , helps ongoing training and seperates the bodgit&scarpers
Here`s an extract from Bendix on how to do a brake chamber - anker. just in case one has a lapsed memory 
foundationbrakes.com/media/d … dsheet.pdf
.
.
sorry , that`s anchorlok by the way .
Own Account Driver:
Northnorthwest:
I don’t know of any special tool, a deep 19mm isn’t quite long enough to wind it all the way and a ratchet spanner digs into your fingers. I made my own with an old 19mm deep impact socket and another similar sized deep impact. Cut them in unequal halves and weld the longest to the 19mm. It don’t look the prettiest tool in the box but works well on a battery impact gun lying on the hard shoulder in a puddleThanks, this is the sort of answer I was hoping for. We did have some extra deep sockets from snap on, in a similar vein, the problem we ran into was access and a lot of impact energy from the gun lost from the extra length of the socket.
This is why you don’t see me posting much!!!
Why not let the air do the work,and as for loosing power due to the “length of a deep socket”
FF Sake!
which end of the chamber are you winding off?
there is some confusion, reading some of the posts, as to which end you are referring to
if it is the slack adjuster, socket and ratchet
if it is the opposite end, then a ratchet spanner