pensions

As i will be eligible for retirement in 22 years i have been thinking about my pension but know nothing about them so please excuse the childish questions.

Far as i understand my employer deducts a percentage of my weekly wage off the top and puts this into a pention pot controled by a 3rd party for me. However i have no control over which company is used and should they go bust etc i loose the lot. I do however get some small amount of intrest i have no idea what. Come retirement age i belive i will get a state pension and a monthly stipend from this pension company therefore the stipend will more than likely be elegable for tax.

This all seems rather worrying and teetering on the edge especialy with the current financial climate would i not be better off putting the pension contributions into an isa or some other savings account. I realise i would pay tax on the initial investment but would be paying it now rather than 20 odd years time.

once again sorry if this is stupid

cooper1203:
Far as i understand my employer deducts a percentage of my weekly wage off the top and puts this into a pention pot controled by a 3rd party for me. However i have no control over which company is used and should they go bust etc i loose the lot.

If you wish you can choose your own investment fund. But be careful doing so unless you know what you are doing.
Funds should be protected, against bankrupcy, up to at least £85k. But none are totally immune from bad investments or market collapse. Nothing is perfect, not even stuffing notes under your mattress.

Interest rates vary a lot, but the highest ones are generally the riskiest ones.

If you are paying into an approved pension you get tax relief at point of depositing funds…if you put in £8 of your money in, £10 appears in the fund. Free money!
ISA s are good for some people, but you need to understand how they compare with pensions to see if they are good for you.
Taking cash out of pension funds can have (within limits) tax advantages too.

You “pension pot” can be used buy “an annuity” or can be “drawn down”.
The money you pay into a pension scheme (the pot) can be taken monthly, and will decrease over time.
Or the money can be given as a lump to a company who will pay out a monthly amount for all your life. (annuity)
Or a bit of both.
Depending on your health, amount of cash, dependents, etc etc, it all depends on what you want.

Start reading here:
moneysavingexpert.com/savin … -pensions/

Think of paying a few quid for professional advice. A couple of hundred spent now can make many thousands of difference later.
Look at “free” advice, but there is no such thing as a free lunch. Everyone gets paid somewhere.

cooper1203:
As i will be eligible for retirement in 22 years i have been thinking about my pension but know nothing about them so please excuse the childish questions.

Far as i understand my employer deducts a percentage of my weekly wage off the top and puts this into a pention pot controled by a 3rd party for me. However i have no control over which company is used and should they go bust etc i loose the lot. I do however get some small amount of intrest i have no idea what. Come retirement age i belive i will get a state pension and a monthly stipend from this pension company therefore the stipend will more than likely be elegable for tax.

This all seems rather worrying and teetering on the edge especialy with the current financial climate would i not be better off putting the pension contributions into an isa or some other savings account. I realise i would pay tax on the initial investment but would be paying it now rather than 20 odd years time.

once again sorry if this is stupid

The question is firstly can you even afford the deductions’ if you’re renting.
If not paying into a pension instead of using the funds to pay down the mortgage makes no economic sense.The downsides of prolonging a mortgage way outweigh any ‘benefits’ of a pension.
While any tax relief on pension contributions will just become taxable income when you take the pension in addition to the tax on the growth.
Also bearing in mind that you can get back less than you’ve put in.Or die before you get it all back.The bankers are actually betting on the latter.Which is why they are trying to rig the scam more in their favour based on laughable life expectation figures.

Have a think about what kind of lifestyle you want post retirement and go from there. If you are just starting to save (at 45?) you might want to be thinking about saving 20% + of your income for retirement. There’s nothing stopping you having a pension AND an ISA, or more than 1 pension (workplace and private). An independent financial advisor can advise which “products” would be best for you based on your circumstances and needs and your attitude to risk. They won’t necessarily charge a consultation fee, they will probably take a small percentage of your monthly contributions for managing your investments. They will also be able to help you understand it all, keep on top of it all, and answer your questions about your workplace pension. Ask people you know for a recommendation in your area.

Modern pensions are “Defined Contributions” which means “What you get back - is directly proportional to what you paid in”.

Older pensions (prior to the Credit Crunch for most people) were “Defined Benefits” which guaranteed you an index-linked return based (usually) on the final salary of the job you retired from… The very best of such pensions - keep up with rises in that “Old Job’s Salary” even if you left some years ago, which makes them the “Gold Plated” pensions one hears of, but of course - are as hard to have and hold as Gold itself, as has been the case since the Credit Crunch turned over the pensions industry as part of the Banking Bailout…

There was another Bailout in recent weeks - also for Pension Funds, because it turned out that Pension Funds had been borrowing money to purchase very low-yield Government Bonds, which have been falling sharply in price recently, due to interest rate hikes…

“Borrowing to Buy a Risk Investment” - is dangerous of course, because if you buy a ratio of say, 20 to 1 (pay down 5% of the cost, borrow the remaining 95%)
then if that investment then drops say, TEN percent - then you’ve actually lost your entire investment of 5% and that amount again as well…
This is a “Derivative” investment of course, like Futures which work exactly the same way, and yes - you can buy these bonds on the futures market as well, geared and high-risk in exactly the same mechanic.

The best pensions one can get at this time (imo) are SIPPS where you save up your own money, put some by, and trickle-buy investments over a long period, managing the fund yourself so you can avoid investments you find “unethical”, don’t pay any management fees, nor an annual charge of 1-2% of your pot, which of course increases as your pot increases over time… Not many people will be financially disciplined enough to run such a SIPP however, with mis-management of one’s own pot - leading to huge tax bills if one is not careful, as some people try to dip into that pot as a “slush fund” over the years, which with tax already claimed back on it - you are NOT ALLOWED TO DO without paying back that tax…

The idea is you “Buy it, stash it, forget it” for however many years it will be to your retirement.

Sensible people also tend to stuff their SIPPs with “Safer” shares that return decent dividends, such as

“Pick your favourite Supermarket”
“Pick your favourite Bank”
“Pick your favourite Energy Firm”
being the top three types of share you are likely to insert into your SIPP.

You might have (for example) a SIPP containing the following:

1/12th in Tesco shares
1/12th in Barclays Bank shares
1/12th in British Petroleum shares
1/12th in GlaxoSmithklein shares
1/12th in Diageo shares
1/12th in Unilever shares
1/12th in Rio Tinto shares
1/12th in Legal and General shares
1/12th in Taylor Wimpey shares
1/12th in SSE shares
1/12th in BT shares
1/12th in Severn Trent Water

(Dislaimer - This is NOT a “Tip Sheet”, I don’t hold any of these shares at present, although I’ve held some of them in the past - and know them to be “good dividend payers” over a long term - just right to pick up, put into a SIPP, and sit on for years and years…)

The way a SIPP can work is you stick only those shares in it that are from different sectors of the market, thus “speading your risk”.
You avoid putting in those sectors that you might object to morally or avoid those you think are about to collapse in price…

For example, you might not want to invest in Tobacco, Pharmacuticals, Energy, or Defence Contractor firms - due to moral objection on your part.
Don’t think you need to buy something that will “immediately rise in price” - that’s a fool’s way to invest. From experience, 23 out of 24 shares I ever purchased - dropped 5% or more before they rose more than 5%… 22 years is a long enough time for all 24 picks (should you have that many) to come right of course, which fits in with how many years you’re looking at running a pension for.
Just tuck something away that has a nice dividend payout one, two, or four times per year that you then don’t have to waste money on “managing” since you don’t intend to do anything with it for 22 years - right? You are buying these shares with cash savings, and not “speculating” on them by dealing only in “part-paid” issues such as new privatizations. It won’t matter if they drop 5% immediately, because you’re able to hold onto them indefinitely, and they still pay the dividends during that time - providing they don’t go bust outright, of course… I’d rate the risk of such a disaster happening - around the 1% level per year… We all remember the Marconis, PollyPeck, TeleWest, and Enron-style collapses over the past years…
Personally, I don’t like “Tech” right now, as I reckon it is due for a serious fall. Morally, I might object to “Big Pharma” too…
Also, avoid shares like Vodaphone which pay a crappy dividend! “Always Check the Yield before you buy” like we say “Always read the label”…

At the end of that time, you cash in the lot, or continue to live off the dividends. In a SIPP you don’t get any tax concessions unless you plough dividends back in to purchase extra shares (as far as I know) but I have not dabbled in anything of my own since I left Royal Mail with my pension plan there as “Paid Up” over a decade ago.

Don’t take “Chasing Tax Concessions” too seriously btw, as the restrictions can sometimes stop you from selling individual shares in your plan when you really should. You only need the tax concessions imo - if you are interested in buying shares that have a poor dividend, and are absolutely sure you won’t ever need “early access” to the money for whatever reason. I prefer for myself to shun the tax concessions, which then gives me the power to clear out anytime I like… I remember once owning British and Commonwealth shares over 30 years ago which I sold for a £6k profit a week before they went bankrupt for example. I woudn’t have been able to do that - if there had been a “Tax penalty” for selling out before any such “pension plan” were due to mature - Right?
(I had just bought them on the open market, and sold them after they rose in price - no restrictions)

It always makes me laugh when so many investors seem to think they simply must have some of their investments in “Cash” or “Bonds” - with both those investments looking very poorly right now - due to rising inflation.

Wouldn’t it make more sense to buy shares that are businesses in things that have already gone up in price instead?
…Just saying…

Aim to buy the Best Dividend Payer (that is not on the verge of going ■■■■-up) in each sector you’re interested in - and you’ll do fine.
No need for expensive “Financial Advisors” or “Pension Mangers” - you’re effectively employing yourself part-time to do just that instead!
You only need a “private client” Stockbroker to open an account with, to buy your shares through, and have them either sit on in their “nominee” account, which is the way most people do stocks and shares these days, as it again - gives you the ability to flog what you want to with a “phone call” or even an online account, rather than taking bits of paper into a high street bank to sell, like we used to back in the day of the “Privatizations”…

EDIT:

Pick a private client stockbroker you can actually walk into the door of!
If you try and open an “online account” with a firm that has no brick-and-mortar address, you risk them being a con outfit, and you might never see your money again!

My old broker used to be a shop in Crowborough for example, but it is up to you to find your own, depending where you live of course…
Of the online-only variety, I’d stick with one of long standing (20 years plus!) that has built up a good reputation over that time.
Don’t just do a web-search for a “reputable broker” however, or you might be prompted with adverts for firms like FTX which has just gone ■■■■-up, or worse - some other still-operating con outfit touting things like “Binary Options”, or “Spead Betting” and the like…
(The “Con” is that they call you to tell you the market “moved the wrong way today, and you’ve lost all your money by being stopped-out” - when the market in question DID dip down, but recovered by the end of the day, meaning if you had that investment in full, you wouldn’t have been selling it automatically at the very bottom of that “dip” - right?) Any firm that insists you have a “Controlled Risk Stop Loss Order” in the market - is telling you “The amount of money you have on your account - is what we’ll accept you can lose today - and if the market doesn’t immediately move your way - chances are you WILL lose that maximum amount…” (Remember - 23 out of 24 investments in my experience go against you before they DO go your way!)

wow thanks for the time taken to answer me

@Franglais Thanks for the link very intresying i had no idea about savings intrest being tax free up to a certain point. I know in the past when i have had to deal with hmrc to get a rebate they said somthing along the lines of well we need to see what intrest has been paid to you in your bank accounts. I will have to quirie that with them next time. The trouble with financial advisors i have found is they aren’t intrested unless you have 20k+ to play with.

@Carryfast I am in an odd position where i pay rent but dont and the amount i pay is very small and is purly used to cover repairs and emergencys. Sorry but im not prepaired to say anymore than that. In essence i have a small amount of disposable income which while there are some safty nets in place i feel i should be investing in my own future and not totaly relying on the backups.

@Driveress I am 45. Surfice to say i didnt work for 20 years for reasons i would rather not share on a public forum (nothing illegal i hasten to add) I am finaly getting my life onto some form of normalicey. Who knows what the future will hold but i have a simple happy life at the moment and just need an income to sustain me.

@Winseer I dont understand shares etc but from what i do understand you need big bucks for the initial investment to make any money at all. for example apparently BAE are paying 10 pence a share and thier share price is £7.60 a share so i would need 76 shares to be able to buy 1 more share which would be an intial investent of £577.60 obviously if i sold all the shares at a higher price i would make a profit but wouldnt that be taxed? The other issue is i could be wrong but lets suppose i own enough shares to have 0.01% of the company (stupid amount i know but bare with me) wouldnt i be responcible for a 100th of the debt should the company go belly up?

I hope all this doesnt come across as negative and dismisive i do value everyones feed back

Over the next 20 years or so, you will be looking at many thousands of your pounds being invested, so you are absolutely doing the right thing to do something positive about it. The more you invest earlier, the harder it will work for you.

Financial advice may be free and unbiased from some places, but I do reckon that advice specific to your own needs is worth paying for. That can be from a Financial Advisor who earns from commission paid from your investments, or from a fixed fee paid up front by you, so you can (should) be sure they are working for you, not to get themselves more commission.

As Driveress said try to get some advice from someone you trust about good advisors.
That isnt easy as most of us deal with only one or maybe two such, we dont go around sampling different ones over several years!
Be certain that any advisor is approved by the FCA.

As a rule remember: if it seems too good to be true, it probably is!

cooper1203:
wow thanks for the time taken to answer me

@Franglais Thanks for the link very intresying i had no idea about savings intrest being tax free up to a certain point. I know in the past when i have had to deal with hmrc to get a rebate they said somthing along the lines of well we need to see what intrest has been paid to you in your bank accounts. I will have to quirie that with them next time. The trouble with financial advisors i have found is they aren’t intrested unless you have 20k+ to play with.

@Carryfast I am in an odd position where i pay rent but dont and the amount i pay is very small and is purly used to cover repairs and emergencys. Sorry but im not prepaired to say anymore than that. In essence i have a small amount of disposable income which while there are some safty nets in place i feel i should be investing in my own future and not totaly relying on the backups.

@Driveress I am 45. Surfice to say i didnt work for 20 years for reasons i would rather not share on a public forum (nothing illegal i hasten to add) I am finaly getting my life onto some form of normalicey. Who knows what the future will hold but i have a simple happy life at the moment and just need an income to sustain me.

@Winseer I dont understand shares etc but from what i do understand you need big bucks for the initial investment to make any money at all. for example apparently BAE are paying 10 pence a share and thier share price is £7.60 a share so i would need 76 shares to be able to buy 1 more share which would be an intial investent of £577.60 obviously if i sold all the shares at a higher price i would make a profit but wouldnt that be taxed? The other issue is i could be wrong but lets suppose i own enough shares to have 0.01% of the company (stupid amount i know but bare with me) wouldnt i be responcible for a 100th of the debt should the company go belly up?

I hope all this doesnt come across as negative and dismisive i do value everyones feed back

If the yield of a share is say, 5%, then you might buy a share for 760p in your example above, which would return a dividend(s) for a year total of say, a 10p “interim” and a “Final” dividend of 28p making dividends of 38p in all, which is 5% of 760p…

Avoid low-yields then, the example I gave of Vodaphone which used to pay a lousy dividend - but is now over 8% yield, meaning that I used a poor example stating that this one paid poorly…
Should have checked up Vodaphone’s current share price, rather than think back to when I last owned a few, over 10 years ago, when the share price was rather higher than it is now (hence the much higher yield today)

Capital Gains Tax subject to review TODAY - is only payable once you’ve made profits in the 5-figure range.
Dividends - are subject to lower rates of tax than would be normal “earned” income - also subject to change today in the chancellor’s autumn statement due later today.
There’s no point me quoting numbers here, as it’ll probably be out-of-date by the time you read this…

Don’t worry about paying taxes on the “huge profits” you’re not going to make in the short term. Unless you’re lucky enough to buy shares in something days before a takeover bid comes out-of-the blue, you’re only going to see a gradual rise in share price over many years, and the dividends coming once or twice a year for reasable percentages compared to Bank savings accounts - is what makes it all worthwhile.

You can get lists of FTSE/Blue Chip companies, and what yields they pay from multiple websites that won’t recommend what shares to buy.
Pick and choose yourself but don’t just take the highest yield ones of all, because it may be the case that a company’s share price has been in steep decline recently, and that happening to it - pushes the “yield” percentage UP rather sharply… You might not get what looks like a meaty forthcoming dividend at ALL, if you pick a lemon that’s just issued a “Profit Warning” for example… Read up on the Plc you’re thinking of buying first I’d suggest… That’s Still cheaper than paying someone else 2% of your pot per year to do it for you though!

You’re buying for income NOT to make a quick buck. All you need to avoid to get that income as planned - is to avoid picking firms that later go ■■■■’up - that’s all there is to it.
Even with one-in-a-hundred chance of picking a duff FTSE stock, you’re not likely to have more than one lemon in your portfolio of 12-24 stock picks, unless you’re extremely unlucky…
Compare that 99% chance of getting a 5%+ yield dividend from each to a 99.9% chance of getting HALF that in a long-term bank savings account, although rates have been rising of late, of course, closing that gap… You’re money is all in one place there maybe, which actually increases your risk of losing it all, slightly… “Integrity” risk is actually higher than “Market” risk in many cases… Same applies to “picking a stockbroker”. If you get one that’s mickey mouse, or involved in a “financial scandal” like FTX of late, then it doen’t matter if you made a million profit of your pot - if the guy runs off with all your cash to the bahamas 10 years into the plan - right?

ok am i on the right track here…

bae systems paid 15.2 pence in june and will pay 10.4 pence end of the month per share today the share price is £7.608 so the yield is (15.2+10.4)/760.8 x 100 ie 3.36%

tesco paid 7.7 pence in june and will pay 3.85 pence next week again share price is £2.252 so ,making the same calculation you get a yield of 5.13%

so out of the two companies tesco would be the better bet. However, this could be a false positive maybe not with the copanies i chose as examples but if the valvue of the bae stocks fell over night then the yield would go up or if the value of the tesco shares rose over night the yield would fall.

I realise that the idea here is long term invetment and not a couple of years however small differences now can make big differences in the future

cooper1203:
ok am i on the right track here…

bae systems paid 15.2 pence in june and will pay 10.4 pence end of the month per share today the share price is £7.608 so the yield is (15.2+10.4)/760.8 x 100 ie 3.36%

tesco paid 7.7 pence in june and will pay 3.85 pence next week again share price is £2.252 so ,making the same calculation you get a yield of 5.13%

so out of the two companies tesco would be the better bet. However, this could be a false positive maybe not with the copanies i chose as examples but if the valvue of the bae stocks fell over night then the yield would go up or if the value of the tesco shares rose over night the yield would fall.

I realise that the idea here is long term invetment and not a couple of years however small differences now can make big differences in the future

Since you didnt understand even the basics of pensions yesterday, then discussing the relative merits of individual share investments today is probably not being "on the right track". Its like taking your 50cc moped down to Santa Pod.

ok there is a rabbit away here somewhere

i have picked 10 shares
imb
bat
gsk
unilever
m&g
rio tinto
pheonix group
bae
tesco
vodophone
only bae and unilever are below 4% if i bought 1 of each stock it would set me back £185.72 and i would get an anual return of £12.18 if i just left it running as i belive is being suggested then it would take 25,038 years to get to a return of 20,000 a year or alternativly i would have to invest £304,958.95

@Driveress I am 45. Surfice to say i didnt work for 20 years for reasons i would rather not share on a public forum (nothing illegal i hasten to add) I am finaly getting my life onto some form of normalicey. Who knows what the future will hold but i have a simple happy life at the moment and just need an income to sustain me.

So, when I wrote (at 45?) I was just guessing at your age based on how long you said you had left, not making a face about the lateness of your start to save for retirement :slight_smile: I was a late starter too, which is how I know you should be saving about 20% of your income. (I still haven’t done a will either :blush: ) Without wishing to sound patronising, you’ve done well to turn things around for yourself. A simple, happy life can be harder to achieve than it sounds.

Do you know an accountant or anyone who uses one? They can usually recommend a financial advisor.

cooper1203:
? The other issue is i could be wrong but lets suppose i own enough shares to have 0.01% of the company (stupid amount i know but bare with me) wouldnt i be responcible for a 100th of the debt should the company go belly up?

I

0.01% is a 10,000th. But you’ve heard of companies being Ltd (Limited) or PLC (Public Limited Company) (The ones you can buy shares in). The only thing the “Limited” means is the fact that you would never be responsible for the debts, beyond you losing your investment. So no, you would never be responsible.

cooper1203:
ok there is a rabbit away here somewhere

i have picked 10 shares
imb
bat
gsk
unilever
m&g
rio tinto
pheonix group
bae
tesco
vodophone
only bae and unilever are below 4% if i bought 1 of each stock it would set me back £185.72 and i would get an anual return of £12.18 if i just left it running as i belive is being suggested then it would take 25,038 years to get to a return of 20,000 a year or alternativly i would have to invest £304,958.95

You don’t buy shares in dribs and drabs in quite this way.
There are some brokers who’ll charge you something like £5 for unlimited transactions - if you commit to say, 10 trades per month of something similar.
The way you’d trickle-buy stocks and shares when operating yourself for a SIPP is to save your pennies until the end of the month, and then put by out of your month’s pay packet whatever you’d think of as “normal contribution” which in a usual pension plan is around 6% of your gross income for that month.

Say you earned £3000 then, you’re talking £180 per month to spend on stocks and shares, which lines up with the example you gave above quite nicely.

What you then do to save transaction costs - is to buy for that particular month - just £180 of ONE of those 12 stocks, rather than “one of each” like you described.

Which one?
The one that has lagged behind the others for that particular month of course!

You find out how the 12 have moved over the previous month from online data freely available. If say, Rio Tinto has rallied strongly (you’ve already bought some of these over previous months say…) then you don’t buy more of those at the now-inflated price this month, but you might pile into say, BAT who’ve shares have dropped this month, on worries more people will be giving up smoking as a new year’s resolution (for example…)
Thus, you’d sit on everything you’ve bought so far (selling nothing of your current holdings) but add £180 worth of BAT shares to your portfolio…

You MUST ensure that the transaction cost here isn’t something daft and prohibitive such as £25 per transaction - to buy £180 worth is over 10% of what you intend to invest, after all, and a 5% dividend yield we’ve been looking at in these examples - will take you at least two years to break even - right?

You need a broker then that can charge you a low rate such as the £5 I mentioned - and if that commits you to doing say, 10 trades per week rather than one per month - you need to manage a bit more closely so that there are other opportunities to trade in any month.

One thing you can do is “Bed and Breakfast” trading where you keep a share long enough for it to go “ex-dividend” (The Dividend is in the bag, you can sell the shares temporarily for now)

Say, if Unilver have rallied strongly this week, and the price is a little too toppy, you can keep them long enough to get the dividend, dump them for a week or two, and then buy them back say, the following week at a lower price.
This counts as two transactions towards your minimum you’d need to qualify for a discounted transaction trader account.
You’d ONLY sell those stocks that are UP on the month of course.
You’d be “Adding” the stock that has lagged behind, but on the caveat that it’s not actually in financial trouble.
You’re still trying to avoid buying “Lemons” that are about to go under.

“Market Day-to-Day Risk” is very easy to manage indeed:
You buy low, and sell higher OR sell higher and buy back lower.
There will easily be 10 trades per week you can do - once you’ve got the pot up and running for about 2 years.

For the first two years, you’ll be paying money in, and selling nothing of course - which makes transactions more expensive, as you won’t qualify for any “regular trader’s discount” as described here - Yet.

For your first year’s money, I’d suggest stockpiling a few months, and not investing any of it (just keep it as cash in one of your bank accounts…)
You’ve already paid income tax on that money, so this isn’t very tax-efficient - BUT it allows you to “time” your initial lump sum block of share purchases to a decent dip in the stock market that occur from time to time. That is then the time to pile in, when ALL the shares you are looking at are near their lows for the year.

You won’t be micro-managing your SIPP until about two years in, but you’ll be paying attention to the market data on your pootah screens - to keep an eye on stuff.

Here’s a few useful links to the prices of stuff, some live, some 15-minute delayed data.
If the market is closed anyways, it doesn’t matter if the data is “delayed”. You’re looking at “yesterday’s closing prices” a lot anyways.

(FTSE stocks)

Metals, Currencies, Stock Market Indices, Bonds, Cryptos
(Worldwide so-called “Overnight” markets - LIVE data 23:00 Sunday-23:00 Fridays.

Commodities Dashboard (delayed data)

The commodity markets - have lower transaction charges than stocks and shares, are also very liquid (easy to get in and out on a mouse click) BUT move rather more than the share markets do, and are thus more risky to trade.
I would not recommend trading in these markets - until you’ve got some serious experience of trading stocks and shares for about 5 years first.
You have been warned!

From experience, I’ve made a lot over the years (first traded 1989) on things like Coffee, Oil, Bonds (Interest Rates), and Gold - but also lost a packet on things like Livestock, Dairy, Base Metals, and most of all - Currencies.

Even within the same “sector” - some are more dangerous than others to trade…
“Natural Gas” can make or lose you $10,000 on the minimum investment in one day’s market move, for example… It is more dangerous to trade than say, Crude Oil in the same “Energy” sector.
The Dow Jones Index is more volatile than the FTSE…
The American markets have the cheapest transaction charges, the European markets - the most expensive.

There isn’t a “learn how to trade in one easy lesson” - it’s more of “Learn how to trade from the school of 1000 hard knocks” - more like… :unamused:

ALL markets however - are mainly “News Driven” - and what with the amount of fake online news reports routinely put out there these days - it has become rather harder to avoid the slings and arrows of outrageous fortune, where a share price DROPS after reporting record profits, or rallies when it announces it has called the receiver in… I would strongly suggest you DON’T attempt to “Trade the news” then, but stick to the facts: If it’s a low price, it MIGHT be a buy - but check that the firm you’re thinking of investing in - is a viable, ongoing concern first.

The brokers that offer the cheapest transaction charges - are usually on an “Execution Only” basis too, which means they will NOT warn you - if you are about to buy shares in a LEMON… So “Caveat Emptor” applies at all times…

cooper1203:
ok there is a rabbit away here somewhere

i have picked 10 shares
imb
bat
gsk
unilever
m&g
rio tinto
pheonix group
bae
tesco
vodophone
only bae and unilever are below 4% if i bought 1 of each stock it would set me back £185.72 and i would get an anual return of £12.18 if i just left it running as i belive is being suggested then it would take 25,038 years to get to a return of 20,000 a year or alternativly i would have to invest £304,958.95

You get to boost a pot of this size with “Bed and Breakfast” trading, usually done towards the end of each financial year…
There’s a “Capital Gains Tax Allowance” where you are allowed to make a certain amount of profit on share transactions in a single tax year - which many brokers offer the B&B discounted transaction charges, often in the month of March - to jiggle your portfolio around a bit, book the biggest profits into this outgoing tax year, and then start with a clean slate for the income new tax year the following month…

“Trading” will easily add another 4% profits, which on a pot of £300,000 would mean you’ll have £12,000 trading profits on which there is no tax at all to pay, because it is below the Capital Gains Tax allowance of £12,300. Add that profit to the £20,000 dividend income, and you’ve got what could be compared to a “Driver’s Wage” there…?

I have found this link i dont know if its linked to thier products ie if i invested with them this is what i would get or what
hl.co.uk/pensions/pension-calculator

when i fill in the appropriate details it tells me that i either need to increase my payments by 300 a month or work for a further 6 years to get 20k a year including state pension if there is going to be one. All this seems to be relient on the fact that ill push off at 85

cooper1203:
I have found this link i dont know if its linked to thier products ie if i invested with them this is what i would get or what
hl.co.uk/pensions/pension-calculator

when i fill in the appropriate details it tells me that i either need to increase my payments by 300 a month or work for a further 6 years to get 20k a year including state pension if there is going to be one. All this seems to be relient on the fact that ill push off at 85

They may be a good or a bad company, I don`t know.
They are a profit making company.

How far did you get with the free impartial Gov advice?
gov.uk/plan-retirement-inco … ial-advice

Franglais:

cooper1203:
I have found this link i dont know if its linked to thier products ie if i invested with them this is what i would get or what
hl.co.uk/pensions/pension-calculator

when i fill in the appropriate details it tells me that i either need to increase my payments by 300 a month or work for a further 6 years to get 20k a year including state pension if there is going to be one. All this seems to be relient on the fact that ill push off at 85

They may be a good or a bad company, I don`t know.
They are a profit making company.

How far did you get with the free impartial Gov advice?
gov.uk/plan-retirement-inco … ial-advice

only that my current work place pention only lets me pay in upto £42.35 a week

cooper1203:
only that my current work place pention only lets me pay in upto £42.35 a week

That sounds a bit peculiar to me:
Do you mean that is an absolute limit on what can be paid in?
Or that the company will match your contribution up to that amount, but no more?

Take free advice from the Gov site, first of all. Follow the links, as appropriate to you, for approved advisors.

The vast majority of us dont have the knowledge, resources, nor time, to match the professional investors employed by pension funds. We cant spread risk as they do by consolidating many investors monies and spreading it more widely than an individual can. Don`t forget the 25% boost from the Gov when paying into a pension pot.

Franglais:

cooper1203:
only that my current work place pention only lets me pay in upto £42.35 a week

That sounds a bit peculiar to me:
Do you mean that is an absolute limit on what can be paid in?
Or that the company will match your contribution up to that amount, but no more?

Take free advice from the Gov site, first of all. Follow the links, as appropriate to you, for approved advisors.

The vast majority of us dont have the knowledge, resources, nor time, to match the professional investors employed by pension funds. We cant spread risk as they do by consolidating many investors monies and spreading it more widely than an individual can. Don`t forget the 25% boost from the Gov when paying into a pension pot.

its to do with the upper earnings threshold of £50,270

sorry i took the amount i paid last week as gosple as i had holliday pay etc real figure is 5% of £50270 = £2513.5 / 52 = £48.34