coiler:
If they are holding Alcoa alloys on they are fine. As previously stated they are for fitting thicker alloy rims on short studs. Unless they look loose, crack on drive.
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Which leaves the question if the studs aren’t supposed to be long enough to match the thicker wheels then why bother threading the supposed short stud nuts to their ends.
Aftermarket alloys Carry old fruit, on a truck originally specced with steels. You either change all the studs or use these
The way I see it that’s applying more tension between the now further away from the stud base shoulder washer on the nut than it would be by using a longer stud.
Christ, is there anything you don’t have a contrary opinion on? The way you see it is irrelevant Quite frankly.
switchlogic:
Christ, is there anything you don’t have a contrary opinion on? The way you see it is irrelevant Quite frankly.
No not a ‘contrary’ opinion at all.I thought you said it’s a matter of ‘choice’ either change the studs ‘or’ use those.My ‘preference’ ( choice ) would be change the studs.In which case you could still ‘use those nuts’ just that all of their threads would be used and thereby the longer stud spreading the tensile load over the longer stud ?.
wheelnutt:
Stop googling crap and passing it off as your own knowledge.
Muppet
Don’t judge everyone by your own zb wit standards.So in your opinion why would it have to be the supposed either or choice between using those nuts ‘or’ longer studs.When Stevie Wonder can see from the pic not google that they are threaded for use with a longer stud.
Volvo supply the same Alcoa rime with short studs and those sleeved nuts on a factory spec. I’ve used them on all my tractor units since 2001. You can also spec the longer studs and conventional nut if you like. I spec with short stud so I could put steel rims on when I come to sell the unit if required. I’ve never had any issues with studs breaking or nuts coming loose.
coiler:
Volvo supply the same Alcoa rime with short studs and those sleeved nuts on a factory spec. I’ve used them on all my tractor units since 2001. You can also spec the longer studs and conventional nut if you like. I spec with short stud so I could put steel rims on when I come to sell the unit if required. I’ve never had any issues with studs breaking or nuts coming loose.
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We professionals are well versed with Alcoas, it is idiots like CF who like to have the last word about everything and always know everything so much better.
coiler:
Volvo supply the same Alcoa rime with short studs and those sleeved nuts on a factory spec. I’ve used them on all my tractor units since 2001. You can also spec the longer studs and conventional nut if you like. I spec with short stud so I could put steel rims on when I come to sell the unit if required. I’ve never had any issues with studs breaking or nuts coming loose.
Which leaves the question why would that nut shown be mutually exclusive with a longer stud.
coiler:
Volvo supply the same Alcoa rime with short studs and those sleeved nuts on a factory spec. I’ve used them on all my tractor units since 2001. You can also spec the longer studs and conventional nut if you like. I spec with short stud so I could put steel rims on when I come to sell the unit if required. I’ve never had any issues with studs breaking or nuts coming loose.
Which leaves the question why would that nut shown be mutually exclusive with a longer stud.
Who gives a toss what you think or what you question, muppet.
You are clueless as always and continue spouting your rubbish you find in some dark corner on the internet.
Go away muppet, we don’t want the likes of you here.
wheelnutt:
As always you have no clue what you are talking about. May I remind you, once again, that this is the professional drivers forum.
If you want to troll every thread with your climate change/federalist/hitler BS I suggest you find another place to do it.
Time to haunt you out of here.
It’s obvious who the zb wit troll is here and it ain’t me.Just an answer to the question would be good if you had the intelligence to answer it.
P!ss off you clueless feckwith.
The answer has been given several times in this thread but as always you have to troll each and every post with your rubbish.
Just because you drove a council truck for 3 months 25 years ago doesn’t make you an expert on everything, quite the contrary.
I didn’t say I’m an expert.The topic asked for ‘opinions’ not expert opinions.I gave one.Which was obviously a more intelligent answer and question than anything you’ve replied with.So I’ll ask again what’s stopping use of a longer stud with that same nut.
coiler:
Volvo supply the same Alcoa rime with short studs and those sleeved nuts on a factory spec. I’ve used them on all my tractor units since 2001. You can also spec the longer studs and conventional nut if you like. I spec with short stud so I could put steel rims on when I come to sell the unit if required. I’ve never had any issues with studs breaking or nuts coming loose.
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Same here, my FH is fitted with Durabrite Alcoas and the sleeved nuts go far into the wheel stud.
Its been in for inspection at two different places since ive had it and confirmed as perfectly safe, one was a Volvo main agent. Tbh i did have my doubts after buying it and looking at the studs which didnt appear long enough as ive had Alcoas before but the nut has covered the stud, its a non issue though…
coiler:
If they are holding Alcoa alloys on they are fine. As previously stated they are for fitting thicker alloy rims on short studs. Unless they look loose, crack on drive.
Sent from my S40 using Tapatalk
Which leaves the question if the studs aren’t supposed to be long enough to match the thicker wheels then why bother threading the supposed short stud nuts to their ends.
why not! the extra thread does no harm. It aslso Might make the production process simpler.
coiler:
If they are holding Alcoa alloys on they are fine. As previously stated they are for fitting thicker alloy rims on short studs. Unless they look loose, crack on drive.
Sent from my S40 using Tapatalk
Which leaves the question if the studs aren’t supposed to be long enough to match the thicker wheels then why bother threading the supposed short stud nuts to their ends.
why not! the extra thread does no harm. It aslso Might make the production process simpler.
Ignore the idiot, if you don’t we will have 20 pages on Hitler/Mussolini and some old clapped out rusted Jag.
[quote="Carryfast.So I’ll ask again what’s stopping use of a longer stud with that same nut.[/quote]
Theres nothing from stopping you using a longer stud but why would you bother when its perfectly safe as it is. Its not a 5 minute job changing all the studs as the discs/ drum would all have to be removed and the studs all pressed out and replaced, its really not needed…
AndrewG:
[quote="Carryfast.So I’ll ask again what’s stopping use of a longer stud with that same nut.
Theres nothing from stopping you using a longer stud but why would you bother when its perfectly safe as it is. Its not a 5 minute job changing all the studs as the discs/ drum would all have to be removed and the studs all pressed out and replaced, its really not needed…
[/quote]
Ignore him, he will come back and blame global warming and the federalists.
coiler:
If they are holding Alcoa alloys on they are fine. As previously stated they are for fitting thicker alloy rims on short studs. Unless they look loose, crack on drive.
Sent from my S40 using Tapatalk
Which leaves the question if the studs aren’t supposed to be long enough to match the thicker wheels then why bother threading the supposed short stud nuts to their ends.
Aftermarket alloys Carry old fruit, on a truck originally specced with steels. You either change all the studs or use these
The way I see it that’s applying more tension to the now shorter stud from the shoulder washer on the nut than it would be by using a longer stud.
It may do but probably not enough to get concerned about, I’ve known trucks that have run with them for years, so why go to the time and expense of replacing the studs?
AndrewG:
Theres nothing from stopping you using a longer stud.
Great so as I said that nut and a longer stud aren’t mutually exclusive so it’s not an either or choice as described by switch.It’s just a choice and no need to cricify anyone who would prefer to use a longer stud.