I have just started a part time job and the unit is an old MAN L reg, it has a 4 speed shift pattern with a thumb switch that moves horizontally across the stick(driver to passenger )with 3 ranges shown, Thing is its an absolute ‘B’ to engage gears especially changing down, i have tried to drop in on the green band on revs but still a ‘B’ to do
am i doing something wrong or is it a crash box whatever that is ?
Sounds like an eaton twin splitter which is a crash box. 1st position in gear box with the switch in position 1 is 1st middle position is 2nd 3 rd position is 3rd 2nd gear on the stick gives you 4th 5th 6th and so on its hard to explain how to do it on here but search eaton twin splitter on here and there is full instructions and a try you tube I’m sure someone posted a link to someone using one
Oh dear…! Does the fella you’re working for know how the box works? No shame in asking as crash boxes are rare these days and if you struggle on blindly there’s a good chance you’ll do some serious damage or have an accident while struggling with the box. I will try and help but never had much to do with them myself. The switch is for your split gears so let’s say you choose first gear with the stick to prepare to move off now you have a choice of split gear with the switch. Move the switch fully over to the left (I think but you can experiment moving it right) and I think this will be your lowest split and you will now be able to flick the switch to move up a split gear or two.
When the split switch has gone as far as it can then your next upshift will be by moving the stick but before you do this you will have to move your split switch back to its original position so that you don’t choose too high a gear when you move the stick then repeat the process up the box to familiarise yourself with it. When you start to understand the box you will find that you won’t need to use every split gear but practice it for now.
Double the clutch for changing on the stick, that is,use the clutch to move the box in to neutral and lift the pedal.then press down on the clutch again and move the stick but don’t try and force it or rush it. Apply a gentle pressure to the stick and allow the box to engage the gear and it should slide in nicely on up changes.
Down changes are the same principle do not use force! Shift into neutral and rev the engine then before the engine revs drop again, depress the clutch, apply gentle pressure to the gearstick and when the engine revs match the gearbox revs the stick should slide into the gear. Don’t try to rush this.
For changing gears using the splitter you only have to move the switch and depress the clutch. When you get used to it you will find you don’t need the clutch to do split changes or gear changes.
I think this is right but someone will be along to correct any bollox I might have dropped! Good luck!
Sounds like good advice…back in the mid 90s i drove a Foden with the Eaton box, drove it for a month using clutch on every change…then a veteran driver said oh that will have the Eaton semi auto box in it ! will it ?..only need the clutch on main changes, flick the switch let the engine do the rest…made hill work a lot less stressfull i tell ya !! just try n remember what gear ya in whilst you get the hang of it and remember " forward planning" as 44 tt says take it easy and divint rush it…tek care
now i think this. position 1 switch is low range normal 1st to 4th in H pattern.
position 2 use stick as normal position 3 splits the gear…use clutch for splits but not needed for changing gear on the stick…am i right or wrong…
Eaton Twin Splitter brill gearbox
only problem you have one that will have had many many years of abuse
so do your best and put grunts and grinds down to ancient equipment
diggertony:
now i think this. position 1 switch is low range normal 1st to 4th in H pattern.
position 2 use stick as normal position 3 splits the gear…use clutch for splits but not needed for changing gear on the stick…am i right or wrong…
You only need the clutch for pulling away once you get your technique right. It goes like this…set off in 1st for arguments sake, get it rolling and flick the split switch over as you accelarate, either one or two places, now back off the throttle and it will change itself! A stick change is different. To do a clutchless change, (which you can do in any manual vehicle) , accelerate then back off the revs and as you do so apply pressure to the stick and move it to neutral, blip the throttle and apply pressure to the stick again, don’t force it, wait until it virtually drops in itself. Up changes are more forgiving than down changes it’s all about matching the engine and gearbox revs to make smooth changes.
diggertony:
now i think this. position 1 switch is low range normal 1st to 4th in H pattern.
position 2 use stick as normal position 3 splits the gear…use clutch for splits but not needed for changing gear on the stick…am i right or wrong…
You only need the clutch for pulling away once you get your technique right. It goes like this…set off in 1st for arguments sake, get it rolling and flick the split switch over as you accelarate, either one or two places, now back off the throttle and it will change itself! A stick change is different. To do a clutchless change, (which you can do in any manual vehicle) , accelerate then back off the revs and as you do so apply pressure to the stick and move it to neutral, blip the throttle and apply pressure to the stick again, don’t force it, wait until it virtually drops in itself. Up changes are more forgiving than down changes it’s all about matching the engine and gearbox revs to make smooth changes.
I’ve heard that you can damage the sync’ if you do that in modern 'boxes? It certainly worked with our old Fodens (not twin splits though)…
Well done Malc I was expecting something like that from you! We had some ERFs with the Eaton box at Exel there was one of the lads who could really make it shift as it was his regular motor,you always knew when he was off by the tunes his replacement played! At the time we were told that unless the clutch brake was properly adjusted they could be a bit of a mare don’t know if that’s true. Only one of the fitters had the training to do that apparently and when they wouldn’t pay him any extra he refused to do them!
44 Tonne Ton:
At the time we were told that unless the clutch brake was properly adjusted they could be a bit of a mare don’t know if that’s true. Only one of the fitters had the training to do that apparently and when they wouldn’t pay him any extra he refused to do them!
I was told that last week and similar to what you said, our workshop wont touch said truck as it’s up for sale.
Thanks again for help, It is an eaton twin as you all said and thanks to you guys I made a lot of progress today with the box just the odd crunch on downshifts.
Never thought there would be another twin splitter thread… Put me down as an enthusiast too.
Downshifts were always the hardest to master - they can make you nervous when fully freighted on a hilly road; but once you master it you will be a convert. The key is to allow it time - no racing changes with this box.
Santa:
Never thought there would be another twin splitter thread… Put me down as an enthusiast too.
Downshifts were always the hardest to master - they can make you nervous when fully freighted on a hilly road; but once you master it you will be a convert. The key is to allow it time - no racing changes with this box.
and if you miss it. Either stamp on the clutch or slip her out then back into gear.
It just takes practice and a bit of time to get a feel for it, when you think you have it will still bite you in the arse a few times though.