newmercman:
So today was quite a productive day, I went for a blood and ■■■■ test (just a 6 month check) then to the dentist. Met a mate for coffee, then to the yard to get some revision materials for an upcoming course/test I’m doing next month. I tidied up my side lockers while I was there and replenished my screen wash jugs. Then home to dig a half mile trench looking for the hole in my sprinkler system, found it and fixed it. Then I visited my accountant and shot into the model shop opposite where I picked up some aluminum paint and some rust paint.
Then I started on the model and below is where I am with it now. I’m debating what to do with the drop sides, aluminum or red to match the chassis. Red is winning so far, but…
0
I always think on tilts it looks good when the drop-sides are aluminium-coloured and the raves / pillars are red. Robert
So do I mate, which is why I bought the aluminum paint, the thing that concerns me are brush marks, I’ve sprayed the rest of it, so brush marks will stand out like a nun in a bag house.
Hi “Newmercman” ,
The model is looking good so far .
There will always be a problem when brush-painting aluminium paint because of the liquid metal content.
Thanks CWM, it looks better from a distance, up close my ham fisted fine detailing is a bit more evident, so them Carlos Fandango tyres are a must
I will weather the complete thing in the style of just got back from Teheran in the middle of winter, so the drop sides will only be aluminum under all that dirt, hopefully that will disguise any brush marks.
Hats off to you lot though, I’m just starting on the more complicated processes now and they are revealing my lack of experience and expertise. I really need to brush up on my painting skills (pardon the pun)
I did this bit earlier, it looks OK head on, but look at it from above and it’s a mess
Hi NMM Looks ok to me mate! It’s all looking good as it goes ! The side flaps on the trailer I agree with Robert, the end result looks better it gives the model a more realistic look, and breaks up the colour,
what I do is with Tamiya masking tape ( 6mm) mask all the surrounding metal parts mask the trailer and spray the flaps with rattle can silver, but don’t spray acrylic on any oil based paint it will react all mine are done in acrylic, but havin said that, a few months ago I was at the truck show at Beaulieu in the new forest they had a model show too and I was looking around and got chatting to an elderly fella didn’t ask his name but I liked his models when he told me that they were ALL hand painted I was completely surprised !! I started looking at them again (for brush marks ) and couldn’t see a one !! Amazing so NMM it can be done ! When I asked him about paint and brushes he said he uses ordinary model paints thinned down and a “floppy brush” sounds simple dunnit !
Crack on good luck I’m sure it’s gonna look great !
Regards Jimski.
Some of those old coach painters can do wonders with a brush and a can of enamel. They used to paint double decker busses like that as it took to long to mask all the windows.
Mask up the drop sides and do them with a light gray first, wait a few hours until they are tacky.
Get out you baking paper and mix a wash of various shade of matte and satin gray as well as thinners and keep a bit of metallic silver to the side as well.
It’s better if you do the strokes front to back and visa versa rather than up and down.
Go for it with a wide brush, when you’ve done that paint the hinges, don’t for get the very thin streak of rust running from the post holes and hinges.
For the head lights cut out some round bits of aluminium foil and stick them in before you put the clear on. For the clear use either PVA or proper canopy glue.
Jelliot:
Some of those old coach painters can do wonders with a brush and a can of enamel. They used to paint double decker busses like that as it took to long to mask all the windows.
Mask up the drop sides and do them with a light gray first, wait a few hours until they are tacky.
Get out you baking paper and mix a wash of various shade of matte and satin gray as well as thinners and keep a bit of metallic silver to the side as well.
It’s better if you do the strokes front to back and visa versa rather than up and down.
Go for it with a wide brush, when you’ve done that paint the hinges, don’t for get the very thin streak of rust running from the post holes and hinges.
For the head lights cut out some round bits of aluminium foil and stick them in before you put the clear on. For the clear use either PVA or proper canopy glue.
Jeff…
Blimey, that makes me want to have a crack at doing one! Robert
Jelliot:
Some of those old coach painters can do wonders with a brush and a can of enamel. They used to paint double decker busses like that as it took to long to mask all the windows.
Mask up the drop sides and do them with a light gray first, wait a few hours until they are tacky.
Get out you baking paper and mix a wash of various shade of matte and satin gray as well as thinners and keep a bit of metallic silver to the side as well.
It’s better if you do the strokes front to back and visa versa rather than up and down.
Go for it with a wide brush, when you’ve done that paint the hinges, don’t for get the very thin streak of rust running from the post holes and hinges.
For the head lights cut out some round bits of aluminium foil and stick them in before you put the clear on. For the clear use either PVA or proper canopy glue.
Jelliot:
Some of those old coach painters can do wonders with a brush and a can of enamel. They used to paint double decker busses like that as it took to long to mask all the windows.
Mask up the drop sides and do them with a light gray first, wait a few hours until they are tacky.
Get out you baking paper and mix a wash of various shade of matte and satin gray as well as thinners and keep a bit of metallic silver to the side as well.
It’s better if you do the strokes front to back and visa versa rather than up and down.
Go for it with a wide brush, when you’ve done that paint the hinges, don’t for get the very thin streak of rust running from the post holes and hinges.
For the head lights cut out some round bits of aluminium foil and stick them in before you put the clear on. For the clear use either PVA or proper canopy glue.
Jeff…
Blimey, that makes me want to have a crack at doing one! Robert
Go for it Robert… Once your hooked there’s no turning back !
R Jimmer
Get into it Robert, there’s plenty of advice on here if you get struck or a bit unsure. You can have your fantasy fleet for a few hundred quid, no tax or mechanical repairs either, and they put a smile on you face every morning when you see them. Great way to rekindle old memories… the good times.
A few years to work it out and you could build your own LHD ERF Continental with a 40 ft spread axle tilt on the back !!!
I did a mock up to see how it all sits, as I said, I’m not using the wheels supplied in the kit, but they’re OK to gauge things.
I’m not a fan of how high the body sits on the chassis, so I’m going to drop it a bit, which will mean losing the front and rear twistlocks, which I don’t like anyway.
This will also mean the cross members of the tilt will sit properly in relation to the trailer chassis, so all the better for accuracy.
My question is, what is the best way to do that? I’m thinking Dremel, but only because I want to buy a Dremel
When I did mine I used a razor saw to cut out the slots for the chassis. I made two pairs of cuts and snapped off the unwanted bits with a pair of pliers.
You’ll also have to cut out a piece of the headboard for the king pin breast plate.
It makes them look so much better as the body will sit down by about 10mm.
Thanks lads! I must admit, a while back I did spend some time tinkering with a collection of 1:87 HO scale lorries and became completely absorbed, trying to weather them and mixing and matching the components. HO scale is good for that, as they’re like ‘swap-its’ (remember those little soldiers, sailors, cowboys, indians etc from the '60s!). Also they don’t take up so much space. I’ll have another crack at it now I’m retired. Cheers! Robert
NZ JAMIE:
When I did mine I used a razor saw to cut out the slots for the chassis. I made two pairs of cuts and snapped off the unwanted bits with a pair of pliers.
You’ll also have to cut out a piece of the headboard for the king pin breast plate.
It makes them look so much better as the body will sit down by about 10mm.
Thanks Jamie,
Glad to hear I’m on the right track, I like the cheap and easy method too, especially as I’m likely to get carried away with a Dremel and end up with a 1/50th scale model
howard does a great selection of wheels www.modelltrucksandparts.com i saw an astran build a while back with a tilt trailer behind it the detail he put into her was amazing + weathering looked stunning when he had it finished newmercman
