Right then…HELP!!!
The tilt is one square box now, but I can see the joints and the roof is clearly two oieces joined together.
I don’t like that, what kind of filler can I use to smooth it out? The gaps are very small, but I know they are there and I want them gone.
I need something that won’t need a lot of sanding as there are detailed moldings very close to the edges and I don’t want to mess them up as I smooth the filler out.
There are a couple of options NNM.
Get back to your model shop and ask for some filler that is compatible with styrene, ( that’s the tec name for what the model is made out of ) He’ll probably palm you of with either milli putt, or Mr White. Both products are on the bottom side of average compared to automotive stuff, but if you give them time to set properly ( a day or so ) they’ll do the job good enough. Sand with 180 then 320 them 600 to finish the job, you have to use gray primer over the top, give that a guide coat and sand and reprime to finish. It’s inevitable that you might sand some of the detail out, but that’s how it goes some times.
What I usually do is go to my paint shop and get some unthinned primer out the tin the dribble that along the joint with a brush, sand that back the next day them a light coat of automotive primer over the top, guide coat, sand, then ready to finish.
You could squirt some primer into a jar or flat bit of metal, and wait for the to thicken up a bit then use that, apply it with a brush. But you have watch that method as some times the solvent in the rattle can will melt he styrene.
A guide coat of a very thin coat of a dark colour of paint, applied quickly. When you start to sand it you will instantly notice the low spots as the guide coat is left in the low spots and the guide coat on the high spots disappear first.
Wrap you sand paper round a lolly pop stick ( That’s a popsicle stick to you NNM ) You can get sharper detail with it.
Jeff…
Pebbles there are a right bunch of rude buggers on here, you asked a question on the 9th and no ones answered you yet.
I use Chris Moxham for my decals, you can bung his name in google and put decals after it and it’ll come up.
I either draw something out, or take a photo of a real truck and email it to him, tell him what size it needs to be for your model, then he’ll email back a proof. Print that out on you printer then cut it up and stick it/ hold it on the model and see how it looks, if it needs to be bigger or smaller let him know and he’ll send you another one. When it’s right he’ll send you the decal sheet.
There are a few guys that do a similar service Dodger decals springs to mind, as does Spot On… If you get Wolfie on a good day, he can knock them out as well. I’ve had a shot at doing some for my self, but they’re not a match on a pro job…
Jeff…
Cheers Jeff, I’ll go with the paintbrush option I think, sounds like the best solution.
I’ve flattened the cab down with 320 and 600 as the colour was a bit too bling for my liking, I have a replacement already, so we’ll see how that goes, I got a Tamiya rattle can this time as I want to do the headlight bezels and sticky out bits of the lower grille in blue and have the background red to match the chassis so I got the same color in a pot so they’ll match. No chance of doing that with a car colour. I did think about those scratch repair paint pens, but couldn’t find one in the blue I had used so gave up on the idea. I may get a white one though for some edging on the yet to be ordered resin wheel rims.
Jelliot:
Pebbles there are a right bunch of rude buggers on here, you asked a question on the 9th and no ones answered you yet.I use Chris Moxham for my decals, you can bung his name in google and put decals after it and it’ll come up.
I either draw something out, or take a photo of a real truck and email it to him, tell him what size it needs to be for your model, then he’ll email back a proof. Print that out on you printer then cut it up and stick it/ hold it on the model and see how it looks, if it needs to be bigger or smaller let him know and he’ll send you another one. When it’s right he’ll send you the decal sheet.
There are a few guys that do a similar service Dodger decals springs to mind, as does Spot On… If you get Wolfie on a good day, he can knock them out as well. I’ve had a shot at doing some for my self, but they’re not a match on a pro job…
Jeff…
Hi “Jelliot”,
With reference to your right bunch of rude b*ggers on here....... , please do not castigate me as being (the) one of the quoted date
of August 9 th., re: request made by “Pebbles74” . 
I shall explain as to why there was no visual reply to “Pebbles” on here.
I replied to "Pebbles74 " that same evening via a p.m. I am sure he will verify this.
The details which were requested by “Pebbles74” needed further cross-correspondence , - therefore the p.m. method was chosen.
I used this system of communication , even though I had already shown photographs on here.
I understand that “Pebbles74” was satisfied with the help I gave , although it may have differed from your own method for
producing waterslide decals for a bespoke model.
I hope I have fully explained myself to your remark.
Please do not tar all of us with your brush. 
Cheers , cattle wagon man.
Your going to be very busy newmercman should turn out alright what colour are you painting it
I plan to do it the same color as the unit, red chassis, blue tilt, but it’s a very basic kit and will need a lot of modifications to make it a UK spec M/E trailer. It has a foreign look about it, which may have a lot to do with it being German!
The under run bar will need sorting, then belly tanks and side boxes need to be made up and both unit and trailer need different wheels and tyres.
Looks like I’ve got a lot of work ahead of me and I’m still waiting on the accessories kit so I can move on with the F12.
newmercman:
I plan to do it the same color as the unit, red chassis, blue tilt, but it’s a very basic kit and will need a lot of modifications to make it a UK spec M/E trailer. It has a foreign look about it, which may have a lot to do with it being German!The under run bar will need sorting, then belly tanks and side boxes need to be made up and both unit and trailer need different wheels and tyres.
Looks like I’ve got a lot of work ahead of me and I’m still waiting on the accessories kit so I can move on with the F12.
Does the accessories kit come with wheels
I’m getting the resin wheels with period tyres, going for a mix and match on the trailer, no need to get that deep into accuracy, but if (when) I make a balls up elsewhere I can point put the fantastic accuracy of the tyres to divert attention away from the mistake 
newmercman:
I’m getting the resin wheels with period tyres, going for a mix and match on the trailer, no need to get that deep into accuracy, but if (when) I make a balls up elsewhere I can point put the fantastic accuracy of the tyres to divert attention away from the mistake
Can I ask where you ordered them was going to do the same thing
I’ll let you know when I get round to ordering them lol
They’re going to be my piece de resistance, so I’m in no rush, although with the combined efforts of the Royal Mail and Canada Post I should probably have ordered them a long time ago if I want to see them this year.
newmercman:
I’ll let you know when I get round to ordering them lolThey’re going to be my piece de resistance, so I’m in no rush, although with the combined efforts of the Royal Mail and Canada Post I should probably have ordered them a long time ago if I want to see them this year.
I’m not planing to get this done for a month or longer planing the decals on the cab now
To “Newmercman” and “Irishlorries” ,
When are you going to show some photographs of these models under construction ? Its all talk and no show` so far. 
This saga is becoming more akin to the late 1960s Yankee tv. serial called Peyton Place`. 
Cheers , cattle wagon man.
cattle wagon man:
To “Newmercman” and “Irishlorries” ,
When are you going to show some photographs of these models under construction ? Itsall talk and no show` so far.This saga is becoming more akin to the late 1960
s Yankee tv. serial calledPeyton Place`.Cheers , cattle wagon man.
Newmercman did and I can’t
I already put photos up of my built and painted chassis and cab shell, since then I’ve been out on an 11 day trip.
I got my trailer yesterday and have already built up the body, will get onto the chassis later today and get the primer on both.
Hope this meets with everyone’s approval 
Sorry CWM I was just going back up through some posts, thanks for clearing that up, I didn’t want him to feel felt out…
Jeff…
So today was quite a productive day, I went for a blood and ■■■■ test (just a 6 month check) then to the dentist. Met a mate for coffee, then to the yard to get some revision materials for an upcoming course/test I’m doing next month. I tidied up my side lockers while I was there and replenished my screen wash jugs. Then home to dig a half mile trench looking for the hole in my sprinkler system, found it and fixed it. Then I visited my accountant and shot into the model shop opposite where I picked up some aluminum paint and some rust paint.
Then I started on the model and below is where I am with it now. I’m debating what to do with the drop sides, aluminum or red to match the chassis. Red is winning so far, but…
Do you never sleep ■■?
Jeff…
I was up at 0830 and it’s just coming up to midnight now.
I’m just having a break from poncing about with the batteries and air tanks and that’s your bloody fault! I could’ve had this thing on the shelf by now if you didn’t keep giving me ideas
On that note, the belly tank ain’t going to snug up between the rails as the crossmembers are in the way, do I flatten the top of the tank as it won’t be visible, or do I need to grind the crossmembers down?
I don’t have a dremel (yet) and I have no idea how to make a tank anyway, so may as well jump in the deep end…
So my first major balls up has happened, I was multi tasking, painting mud flaps and the battery box cover, then started sticking bits together, the open pot of paint and the open bottle of glue were side by side, guess which one I put the glue brush back in 
■■■■ ■■■■ ■■■■ ■■■■ ■■■■ and ■■■■
