I am going to get a kit on Friday and start Sunday but I have a few more questions. First how do you make your own parts because I need to make air vents for the grill and the air horns and light bar. Can any one name me a good air brush and last question does any one know of any decal makers in northern ireland or donegal
irish lorries:
I am going to get a kit on Friday and start Sunday but I have a few more questions. First how do you make your own parts because I need to make air vents for the grill and the air horns and light bar. Can any one name me a good air brush and last question does any one know of any decal makers in northern ireland or donegal
Hi I lorries plasticard and evergreen rod or bar to make your odds and sods the airbrush I use is Harder Steinbeck Evelution 2in1 German make for about £130.00 fantastic !expensive I know but but worth it, And your gonna need a compressor too I use a Chinese make with a 3litre tank for constant pressure builds up to 57 psi and when it drops below 50psi it cuts in again that’s gonna cost £85.00 spend more on the airbrush than compessor so for just over a couple hundred quid your set up !!
Good luck.
R Jimski
Newmercman don’t worry I know it’s gonna look great !! Enjoy 
R Jim
Irish Lorries don’t worry about an airbrush for you r first few builds, rattle cans are very good and not as fiddley.
If you look back through the how to and tips section on the TMW forum you’ll see some big posts I’ve done on airbrushes.
NNM most kits have their little quirks, like knowing what bit to file of the cab interior to get it to fit, or how to position the front guards on a Scania 142 so they line up with the rest of the cab. But one thing that most truck modellers do agree on is the fact that when Italeri did the Daf 95 and 105 they got just about everything right. It might not be your dream build, but the kit does go together very well, and as first model it’s a good place to cut your teeth, you can pick them up cheep, and there are loads about on both sides of the pond.
The flat top F12 re release is a fairly good kit and may offer more interest to you, but there are a couple of miss fits here and there. If you’re going to build that, then test fit the parts before you glue them and make sure you get them in the right place as some of the early Italeri instructions can be a bit vague.
As for tools, for my first builds I had a pair of nail scissors to cut the bits of the sprue, a nail file to file the little bits of sprue of the parts,and some Revelle Contacta Pro glue. And that’s about all I still use when doing out the box kit builds.
If you go onto ebay and bang in 1/24 DAF, Volvo, Scania , Merc etc, you’ll soon find stuff. Karens models is on you side of the pond and do overnight shipping.
The main thing to remember is that’s it’s meant to be a fun hobby, not something that frustrates you so much you want to kill your self.
Good luck, just shout out if you need any information…
Jeff…
Jelliot:
Irish Lorries don’t worry about an airbrush for you r first few builds, rattle cans are very good and not as fiddley.
If you look back through the how to and tips section on the TMW forum you’ll see some big posts I’ve done on airbrushes.NNM most kits have their little quirks, like knowing what bit to file of the cab interior to get it to fit, or how to position the front guards on a Scania 142 so they line up with the rest of the cab. But one thing that most truck modellers do agree on is the fact that when Italeri did the Daf 95 and 105 they got just about everything right. It might not be your dream build, but the kit does go together very well, and as first model it’s a good place to cut your teeth, you can pick them up cheep, and there are loads about on both sides of the pond.
The flat top F12 re release is a fairly good kit and may offer more interest to you, but there are a couple of miss fits here and there. If you’re going to build that, then test fit the parts before you glue them and make sure you get them in the right place as some of the early Italeri instructions can be a bit vague.
As for tools, for my first builds I had a pair of nail scissors to cut the bits of the sprue, a nail file to file the little bits of sprue of the parts,and some Revelle Contacta Pro glue. And that’s about all I still use when doing out the box kit builds.If you go onto ebay and bang in 1/24 DAF, Volvo, Scania , Merc etc, you’ll soon find stuff. Karens models is on you side of the pond and do overnight shipping.
The main thing to remember is that’s it’s meant to be a fun hobby, not something that frustrates you so much you want to kill your self.
Good luck, just shout out if you need any information…Jeff…
I think that’s what I will do I have a company already Liam Connolly road freight daf xf105 space cab see them all the time so I wouldn’t have any bother with pics and I think I will use spay cans
With this Curtainside Trailer
Thanks Jeff and Jimmer, I know it won’t be to your standards, but I will be aiming for a perfect fit at least (my OCD will ensure that) I know less is more when it comes to glue and a dry fit is essential, but do you paint everything before the dry fit?
I’m going to go with a simple blue cab, red chassis paint job, I will follow Jeff’s advice on the spray can method, is there any special preparation needed before applying the paint?
newmercman:
Thanks Jeff and Jimmer, I know it won’t be to your standards, but I will be aiming for a perfect fit at least (my OCD will ensure that) I know less is more when it comes to glue and a dry fit is essential, but do you paint everything before the dry fit?I’m going to go with a simple blue cab, red chassis paint job, I will follow Jeff’s advice on the spray can method, is there any special preparation needed before applying the paint?
That’s a good question never through to ask that 
what kit are you using
Haven’t bought it yet, going for the flat top F12 though.
newmercman:
Haven’t bought it yet, going for the flat top F12 though.
Nice choice
newmercman:
Haven’t bought it yet, going for the flat top F12 though.
Hi New Mercman
Sounds like it might be a Davies tractor your gonna do dark blue cab red chassis ! Jeff is right rattle cans are good get em from Halfords on them colours I’d use a grey primer!
Crack on !!
R Jim
Jeff, do you have a website for Karen’s models, Google just gives me models in bikinis, which is pretty decent viewing, but not helping me in my search for an F12 much 
I must be getting old, can’t really believe I was getting ■■■■■■ off at scantily clad babes appearing on my screen rather than a box of plastic parts 
Hi, personally I only use the same brand of rattle cans, I don’t think its a good idea to mix brands incase they cause a reaction, crazing and wrinkling etc.
I use halfrauds (halfords) cans, I find them to be pretty good, especially like I say if you use the primer and a colour together, never had any problems. I tend to stand the can in warm water for a few minutes, then shake the can as you would do for a few mins. It’s good when you have built the chassis and axles up etc then give it a coat of grey primer, you can see the model pop into life as you spray!
Chassis rails and axles glued, built, affixed, then primer until you are happy, (few gentle coats), I usually build the motor separately and give it a realistic colour. Depending on the kit if you leave the front chassis
Cross member off you should be able to slip the motor in to the chassis cradle (once the chassis is painted in the colour of your choice).
As for the cab, the beauty of the volvo flat top f series is that you can build the shell of the cab up minus any interior or glazing. This is great as you can stand it alone, primer it until happy, then spray a colour of your choice until satisfied. The interior has been built up as per the instructions at this point, you add the cab glazing CAREFULLY! To avoid getting any nasty model glue on the glazing: it will ruin the windows if you are not careful, people sometimes use pva glue I believe.
Any way, your cab shell is finally painted, you have added the windows by this point, the interior floor pan is then slid upwards into the cab shell until it’s snug, fairly easy if a little nerve racking!
In comparison to some of the kits like the scania ones especially the 142/143 of which the cabs are a swine to build to a satisfactory standard, I don’t touch these kits I got scarred by one many years ago!
I’m not even sure if I’m right but that’s what I do anyway!
For me the f series volvo kits are ideal for the beginner, I learned modelling on the esci 1:32 scale flat top volvo f12s I love these trucks! Ok I haven’t really moved on but hey!
Hope this is of some help,
cheers, harryvr6.
newmercman:
Jeff, do you have a website for Karen’s models, Google just gives me models in bikinis, which is pretty decent viewing, but not helping me in my search for an F12 muchI must be getting old, can’t really believe I was getting ■■■■■■ off at scantily clad babes appearing on my screen rather than a box of plastic parts
+1 but I wasn’t ■■■■■■ off about what came up
irish lorries:
newmercman:
Jeff, do you have a website for Karen’s models, Google just gives me models in bikinis, which is pretty decent viewing, but not helping me in my search for an F12 muchI must be getting old, can’t really believe I was getting ■■■■■■ off at scantily clad babes appearing on my screen rather than a box of plastic parts
+1 but I wasn’t ■■■■■■ off about what came up
I am getting old then
harryvr6:
Hi, personally I only use the same brand of rattle cans, I don’t think its a good idea to mix brands incase they cause a reaction, crazing and wrinkling etc.I use halfrauds (halfords) cans, I find them to be pretty good, especially like I say if you use the primer and a colour together, never had any problems. I tend to stand the can in warm water for a few minutes, then shake the can as you would do for a few mins. It’s good when you have built the chassis and axles up etc then give it a coat of grey primer, you can see the model pop into life as you spray!
Chassis rails and axles glued, built, affixed, then primer until you are happy, (few gentle coats), I usually build the motor separately and give it a realistic colour. Depending on the kit if you leave the front chassis
Cross member off you should be able to slip the motor in to the chassis cradle (once the chassis is painted in the colour of your choice).As for the cab, the beauty of the volvo flat top f series is that you can build the shell of the cab up minus any interior or glazing. This is great as you can stand it alone, primer it until happy, then spray a colour of your choice until satisfied. The interior has been built up as per the instructions at this point, you add the cab glazing CAREFULLY! To avoid getting any nasty model glue on the glazing: it will ruin the windows if you are not careful, people sometimes use pva glue I believe.
Any way, your cab shell is finally painted, you have added the windows by this point, the interior floor pan is then slid upwards into the cab shell until it’s snug, fairly easy if a little nerve racking!
In comparison to some of the kits like the scania ones especially the 142/143 of which the cabs are a swine to build to a satisfactory standard, I don’t touch these kits I got scarred by one many years ago!
I’m not even sure if I’m right but that’s what I do anyway!
For me the f series volvo kits are ideal for the beginner, I learned modelling on the esci 1:32 scale flat top volvo f12s I love these trucks! Ok I haven’t really moved on but hey!
Hope this is of some help,
cheers, harryvr6.
Thanks for that, some useful tips there 
newmercman:
harryvr6:
Hi, personally I only use the same brand of rattle cans, I don’t think its a good idea to mix brands incase they cause a reaction, crazing and wrinkling etc.I use halfrauds (halfords) cans, I find them to be pretty good, especially like I say if you use the primer and a colour together, never had any problems. I tend to stand the can in warm water for a few minutes, then shake the can as you would do for a few mins. It’s good when you have built the chassis and axles up etc then give it a coat of grey primer, you can see the model pop into life as you spray!
Chassis rails and axles glued, built, affixed, then primer until you are happy, (few gentle coats), I usually build the motor separately and give it a realistic colour. Depending on the kit if you leave the front chassis
Cross member off you should be able to slip the motor in to the chassis cradle (once the chassis is painted in the colour of your choice).As for the cab, the beauty of the volvo flat top f series is that you can build the shell of the cab up minus any interior or glazing. This is great as you can stand it alone, primer it until happy, then spray a colour of your choice until satisfied. The interior has been built up as per the instructions at this point, you add the cab glazing CAREFULLY! To avoid getting any nasty model glue on the glazing: it will ruin the windows if you are not careful, people sometimes use pva glue I believe.
Any way, your cab shell is finally painted, you have added the windows by this point, the interior floor pan is then slid upwards into the cab shell until it’s snug, fairly easy if a little nerve racking!
In comparison to some of the kits like the scania ones especially the 142/143 of which the cabs are a swine to build to a satisfactory standard, I don’t touch these kits I got scarred by one many years ago!
I’m not even sure if I’m right but that’s what I do anyway!
For me the f series volvo kits are ideal for the beginner, I learned modelling on the esci 1:32 scale flat top volvo f12s I love these trucks! Ok I haven’t really moved on but hey!
Hope this is of some help,
cheers, harryvr6.
Thanks for that, some useful tips there
Yes it is but what if you want to detail the chassis can you just use a paint brush
It will be all red including the engine, not going to go mad on my first attempt, it would be nice to add air piping and wiring, but need to learn to walk before I start running.
newmercman:
It will be all red including the engine, not going to go mad on my first attempt, it would be nice to add air piping and wiring, but need to learn to walk before I start running.
Hi Newmercman are you on truck model world
No, probably be a good idea to join though