Hi, had new batteries fitted and now truck has no power at all to anything electrical. Batteries are fine so I was wondering if there is an isolator somewhere that needs resetting other than the one on the dash. Thanks
Get back on to the person who fitted them and get him to sort it
blue estate:
Get back on to the person who fitted them and get him to sort it
He doesn’t know, he’s gone away to find out
Don’t know specifically about Ivecos but have you checked the battery terminals have been tightened properly?
And connected properly. Wouldn’t be the first time a fitter has wired them up wrong.
I don’t know if this is still the case but the first Stralis’s had a battery cut out system to prevent flat batteries, when it kicked in and disconnected everything you would need to reset it by using the battery switch on the centre dash board. Also I n the event of a disconnection like when you change batteries you would need to press the button to restore power to everything.
109LWB:
And connected properly. Wouldn’t be the first time a fitter has wired them up wrong.
Like the breakdown monkey who came to me last year , Put both jump leads on same battery 
It melted his leads
Probably flashed em on wrong polarity.
Wasnt Norb was it.Nothing would suprise me about that “technician”
Should power up straight away and you should hear a solenoid mounted immediately to the right of the battery tray click loudly twice if they are connected correctly.
Really need to put a multimeter across the cable clamps and check for 24v and go from there. Also check the -ve earth to the chassis.
Bking:
Probably flashed em on wrong polarity.
Wasnt Norb was it.Nothing would suprise me about that “technician”
“Flashed em on wrong polarity”
Is that a spanner monkey’s parlance? I love professional idiom, designed to make the layman feel out of his depth. Like sucking air between your teeth.
Bking:
Probably flashed em on wrong polarity.
Wasnt Norb was it.Nothing would suprise me about that “technician”
Don’t be silly. He wouldn’t raise his standards and go work on ivecos [emoji12]
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It may seem a silly question but why was the batteries replaced , was the truck giving symptoms of flat batteries in the yard i.e. Won’t start ,starter clicking etc with no previous issues ?
If so I would suspect the battery isolater beside the battery box has shorted out you need to remove it or replace it
chipliner:
It may seem a silly question but why was the batteries replaced , was the truck giving symptoms of flat batteries in the yard i.e. Won’t start ,starter clicking etc with no previous issues ?
If so I would suspect the battery isolater beside the battery box has shorted out you need to remove it or replace it
Thanks for all the replies, been struggling to start now for a few weeks then it needed a starter relay or something and they tested the batteries and said it needed new ones. Nobody has any idea how to get over this problem so I am still stuck here.
To be honest it should be fairly easy to get to the bottom of if with a multimeter you start at the battery terminals and work from there. If you lift the front grill you will see where the power feeds into the cab.
the nodding donkey:
Bking:
Probably flashed em on wrong polarity.
Wasnt Norb was it.Nothing would suprise me about that “technician”“Flashed em on wrong polarity”
Is that a spanner monkey’s parlance? I love professional idiom, designed to make the layman feel out of his depth. Like sucking air between your teeth.
Ok numb nuts they have reversed the battery poles and burnt out the fuse box tracks.
Simple enough for even you to understand.
Own Account Driver:
Should power up straight away and you should hear a solenoid mounted immediately to the right of the battery tray click loudly twice if they are connected correctly.Really need to put a multimeter across the cable clamps and check for 24v and go from there. Also check the -ve earth to the chassis.
What solenoid?
The battery is live fed to the starter star feed and earthed to the starter,the engine and a braided lead to the cab.Only link that might blow is the mega fuse in the chassis box next to the battery housing.Thats if Iveco have advanced far enough to use a primary chassis fuse.
Bking:
Own Account Driver:
Should power up straight away and you should hear a solenoid mounted immediately to the right of the battery tray click loudly twice if they are connected correctly.Really need to put a multimeter across the cable clamps and check for 24v and go from there. Also check the -ve earth to the chassis.
What solenoid?
The battery is live fed to the starter star feed and earthed to the starter,the engine and a braided lead to the cab.Only link that might blow is the mega fuse in the chassis box next to the battery housing.Thats if Iveco have advanced far enough to use a primary chassis fuse.
The one that’s there, exactly where I’ve said and clicks loudly when you connect the batteries, if it didn’t/wasn’t, I wouldn’t have mentioned it.
Dont expect that the batteries are wrong connected, the + and - clamps are different size, would be even for Bking difficult to get it wrong.
My thought would be either the masterswitch relais beside the battery, not powered or failed (or the manual masterswitch on the older types burned out).
These Iveco’s are known for loom failure, the cables are not the best (neither are most modern trucks) so I would start to measure (or use a test lamp) from the battery onwards)
If you get power at the starter motor, so if the starter relais get powered when you turn the key.
Than I would folow it up through the fuse box, if there is no power there, one of the main fuses could be gone (near the battery) or one of the cables has a internal break.
Most suspected places are where the cables bend, but I have seen them on the small Mercedes truck broken in the middle of the chassis, just by vibration.
Check if all the earthing points are correct and connected (check again wiring for breaks)
Some trucks like the MAN in PET Reg have a battery reset buton on the dashboard, press that if its there.
But because of the previous problems you had, I suspect the wiring.
Work systematic and you will find the solution.
caledoniandream:
Dont expect that the batteries are wrong connected, the + and - clamps are different size, would be even for Bking difficult to get it wrong.
My thought would be either the masterswitch relais beside the battery, not powered or failed (or the manual masterswitch on the older types burned out).
These Iveco’s are known for loom failure, the cables are not the best (neither are most modern trucks) so I would start to measure (or use a test lamp) from the battery onwards)
If you get power at the starter motor, so if the starter relais get powered when you turn the key.
Than I would folow it up through the fuse box, if there is no power there, one of the main fuses could be gone (near the battery) or one of the cables has a internal break.
Most suspected places are where the cables bend, but I have seen them on the small Mercedes truck broken in the middle of the chassis, just by vibration.
Check if all the earthing points are correct and connected (check again wiring for breaks)
Some trucks like the MAN in PET Reg have a battery reset buton on the dashboard, press that if its there.
But because of the previous problems you had, I suspect the wiring.
Work systematic and you will find the solution.
You dont have to bolt them on to flash them genius.
Touch the poles the wrong way and you got a burnt out fuse box and diodes turned to toast in an instant.Electricity does not work as slow as your brain fortunately.
Own Account Driver:
Should power up straight away and you should hear a solenoid mounted immediately to the right of the battery tray click loudly twice if they are connected correctly.Really need to put a multimeter across the cable clamps and check for 24v and go from there. Also check the -ve earth to the chassis.
What negative earth to the chassis.
No modern truck has an “earthed” chassis.
WTF you talkin about man.