Bking:
Probably flashed em on wrong polarity.
Wasnt Norb was it.Nothing would suprise me about that “technician”
Meow lol have I upset you lol…
Bking:
caledoniandream:
Dont expect that the batteries are wrong connected, the + and - clamps are different size, would be even for Bking difficult to get it wrong.
My thought would be either the masterswitch relais beside the battery, not powered or failed (or the manual masterswitch on the older types burned out).
These Iveco’s are known for loom failure, the cables are not the best (neither are most modern trucks) so I would start to measure (or use a test lamp) from the battery onwards)
If you get power at the starter motor, so if the starter relais get powered when you turn the key.
Than I would folow it up through the fuse box, if there is no power there, one of the main fuses could be gone (near the battery) or one of the cables has a internal break.
Most suspected places are where the cables bend, but I have seen them on the small Mercedes truck broken in the middle of the chassis, just by vibration.
Check if all the earthing points are correct and connected (check again wiring for breaks)
Some trucks like the MAN in PET Reg have a battery reset buton on the dashboard, press that if its there.
But because of the previous problems you had, I suspect the wiring.
Work systematic and you will find the solution.You dont have to bolt them on to flash them genius.
Touch the poles the wrong way and you got a burnt out fuse box and diodes turned to toast in an instant.Electricity does not work as slow as your brain fortunately.
Really, I mean really!
Are you really that stupid that you put all four connections at the same time, really?
You don’t check just slam all the clamps the same time, never heard or seen such a stupid remark.
Is that where city and guilds stand for?
I have seen it done with jump leads, but never when people fitted batteries, not even apprentices.
Bking:
Own Account Driver:
Should power up straight away and you should hear a solenoid mounted immediately to the right of the battery tray click loudly twice if they are connected correctly.Really need to put a multimeter across the cable clamps and check for 24v and go from there. Also check the -ve earth to the chassis.
What negative earth to the chassis.
No modern truck has an “earthed” chassis.
WTF you talkin about man.
Really…
dave docwra:
Bking:
Own Account Driver:
Should power up straight away and you should hear a solenoid mounted immediately to the right of the battery tray click loudly twice if they are connected correctly.Really need to put a multimeter across the cable clamps and check for 24v and go from there. Also check the -ve earth to the chassis.
What negative earth to the chassis.
No modern truck has an “earthed” chassis.
WTF you talkin about man.Really…
I’m going to nip out and get some popcorn.
dave docwra:
Bking:
Own Account Driver:
Should power up straight away and you should hear a solenoid mounted immediately to the right of the battery tray click loudly twice if they are connected correctly.Really need to put a multimeter across the cable clamps and check for 24v and go from there. Also check the -ve earth to the chassis.
What negative earth to the chassis.
No modern truck has an “earthed” chassis.
WTF you talkin about man.Really…
Yes really,Called insulated return,very high tech dont ya know.
Bking:
Own Account Driver:
Should power up straight away and you should hear a solenoid mounted immediately to the right of the battery tray click loudly twice if they are connected correctly.Really need to put a multimeter across the cable clamps and check for 24v and go from there. Also check the -ve earth to the chassis.
What negative earth to the chassis.
No modern truck has an “earthed” chassis.
WTF you talkin about man.
Are you sure you really want to ride this train?
Please explain more, oh wise one…
blue estate:
109LWB:
And connected properly. Wouldn’t be the first time a fitter has wired them up wrong.
It melted his leads
Can’t understand how that could possibly happen just because he put the jump leads on one battery. Makes no sense.
Bking:
Touch the poles the wrong way and you got a burnt out fuse box and diodes turned to toast in an instant.Electricity does not work as slow as your brain fortunately.
Utter ■■■■■■■■, the battery takes the punishment. When the battery eventually can’t take it any more the plates inside it short together creating a dead short. Maximum current from the source is then drawn through the jumper leads. No current flows through the rest of the vehicle due to Kirchoffs Law because the now shorted battery is taking it all. The jumper leads then become the point of failure, effectively acting as an extremely high rated fuse.
Even if there was no battery there at all, you would not burn out the fuse box or any of the wiring by reverse polarity because there is no increase in current drain just because you’ve connected the positive jump cable to the negative lead of the vehicle and vice-versa. Damage to diodes MAY occur if you turned on the ignition switch in this state but diodes used for reverse polarity protection in vehicles are rated way higher than the ■■■■ you get in cheap chinese electronics and are usually rated to survive a reverse current higher than the current draw of the device because there is a possibility that in the life of the vehicle it may be jump started by someone as incompetent as you and the cables put on backwards. Therefore in that state no current will flow other than a slight transient current, nothing will be killed. Can’t burn out tracks in a fuse box unless there is more current flowing through them than they’re designed to take. And before you decide you want to say I’m wrong, in 2013 I went to Hull Uni to do a BEng Electronics Engineering degree to follow on from my BTEC HNC Electronics Engineering and I’m also a qualified mechanic and also worked for a while as an auto electrician.
You sound like you’re a fitter and a poor one at that. Stick to being a fitter and fitting the bits to vehicles that the real mechanics where you work tell you are broken rather than trying to work out how stuff works because you quite clearly don’t know your arse from your elbow.
Conor:
blue estate:
109LWB:
And connected properly. Wouldn’t be the first time a fitter has wired them up wrong.
It melted his leadsCan’t understand how that could possibly happen just because he put the jump leads on one battery. Makes no sense.
Because 24v is greater than 12v therefore the batteries will try to force themselves towards an equilibrium voltage and in the process a large amount of current will flow through any wires or conductive material connecting them - see every day’s a school day , even for such well qualified sorts.
Its the Muffler Bearings … 
Bking:
dave docwra:
Bking:
Own Account Driver:
Should power up straight away and you should hear a solenoid mounted immediately to the right of the battery tray click loudly twice if they are connected correctly.Really need to put a multimeter across the cable clamps and check for 24v and go from there. Also check the -ve earth to the chassis.
What negative earth to the chassis.
No modern truck has an “earthed” chassis.
WTF you talkin about man.Really…
Yes really,Called insulated return,very high tech dont ya know.
Well it might have been when your ancient textbook you’re cribbing from was published.
Do allegedly highly experienced fitters need to look in ancient textbooks?
Here it is the source of all your powers(■■):
Another distinct smell of ■■■■■■■■■ from our resident “experts”
At least I know enough to know they dont “earth” the chassis numb nuts
Another waste of time.
Bking:
Another distinct smell of [zb] from our resident “experts”
I do like your posting style that always implies you have some loyal band of followers that appreciate your wisdom.
I can’t blame you though. I myself currently post on a neurosurgeon forum using a textbook published in 1976 for my facts and experience.
Bking:
At least I know enough to know they dont “earth” the chassis numb nuts
So I definitely won’t be able to upload a photo of it?
Love your style OAD …Now that you have proven the king of kings he is wrong yet again…I see he no longer puts forward an argument ,just insults …He is now on google and will come back asking you to answer some random question which as nothing to do with this thread whatsoever
Come on BurgerKing tell us your next WHOPPER ,GET IT And can I get fries with mine Please
Bking:
dave docwra:
Bking:
Own Account Driver:
Should power up straight away and you should hear a solenoid mounted immediately to the right of the battery tray click loudly twice if they are connected correctly.Really need to put a multimeter across the cable clamps and check for 24v and go from there. Also check the -ve earth to the chassis.
What negative earth to the chassis.
No modern truck has an “earthed” chassis.
WTF you talkin about man.Really…
Yes really,Called insulated return,very high tech dont ya know.
I presume you are talking about Insulated return as used on tankers & used on some of the earlier vehicles such as Seddon,ERF and such like , almost all modern vehicles are earthed via the chassis…
dave docwra:
Bking:
Called insulated return,very high tech dont ya know.I presume you are talking about Insulated return as used on tankers & used on some of the earlier vehicles such as Seddon,ERF and such like , almost all modern vehicles are earthed via the chassis…
Uh oh technical bun fight potential. I forsee a riot