Evening gents (and ladies) does anyone know the cost of replacing steel wheels with alcoa wheels?was there any real benefit apart from the bling factor? Your thoughts would be appreciated
the major benefit is goning to be a weight saving, and then bling value.
If you buy ally wheels you then have to replace all your wheelnuts too, so make sure you cost that into it also
many thanx TC but any idea on cost?
DT@Leightonhaul:
many thanx TC but any idea on cost?
if memory serves me right, about £300 a rim, and wheelnuts were about a fiver each, so £50 a wheel.
a place in daventry sell them slightly cheaper than tyre tracks, they are called tyre line in daventry.
Many thanx for your help,i will google them & see what i can find - ta muchly.
Hi tony ,just had a look at yr web site,fab looking vehicles,hope things are working in yr favour at the mo.
Make sure they are durabrites!!! I had ally wheels on a new wagon a while back and unless you can be arsed polishing them every day (which I can’t), they look carp after a while with steel wheels probably better looking! Durabrites just need a normal wash and come up shiny without the elbow grease and a tin ‘O’ peak.
DT@Leightonhaul:
many thanx TC but any idea on cost?
They come up on eBay quite a bit, for example this item which is a full set of 8 for a unit that went for 320quid.
Paul
tc trans:
If you buy ally wheels you then have to replace all your wheelnuts too, so make sure you cost that into it also
Depends on the make of truck and the lengh of the stud, Scania and some Volvo,s have longer studs so the original nuts can be used, otherwise retro nuts are needed along with bigger stud holes drilled into the wheel,
Merc quoted me £10 each (per nut) 
thank god for ebay 
Big Joe:
tc trans:
If you buy ally wheels you then have to replace all your wheelnuts too, so make sure you cost that into it alsoDepends on the make of truck and the lengh of the stud, Scania and some Volvo,s have longer studs so the original nuts can be used, otherwise retro nuts are needed along with bigger stud holes drilled into the wheel,
Merc quoted me £10 each (per nut)
All European Alcoa wheels are hub centred type wheels. European Alcoa wheels have cylindrical boltholes and are not suitable for bolt centring with conical or spherical nuts. These types of mounting systems must never be used on European Alcoa wheels. If used, the warranty is voided and severe consequences, such as cracking or wheel failure could result. Even worse, this could lead to wheel loss leading to serious injury or death.
Only two piece cap nuts with an integral, freely turning washer designed for hub centring mounting systems must be used for fastening European Alcoa wheels
For single and dual mounting, the spigots should be in contact with the wheels for at least 3 mm. Longer spigots make mounting easier
Following sleeved cap nut types are available: M22 x 1.5, M20 x 1.5, M18 x 1.5, 7/8"-14 UNF and 7/8"-11 BSF
alcoa.com/alcoawheels/europe … nting2.asp
Taken from the horses mouth 
As long as the original stud is long enough and the original nut is two piece, (as most are nowadays even with steel wheels) then the original can be used.
Wheel Nut:
Following sleeved cap nut types are available: M22 x 1.5, M20 x 1.5, M18 x 1.5, 7/8"-14 UNF and 7/8"-11 BSF
These beasties need 32mm stud holes drilled in the wheel, as opposed to the standard 22mm holes, and are used when the standard stud is to short for alloys, they’re also known as ‘‘retro nuts’’ 
.
If you go for s/h wheels, best to find out which wheel nuts you need first then you know which sized hole to look for 
many thanx for all your sugestions gents!!!
Best you find out which is going to work the cheapest ,long studs or retro wheel nuts, wheels are generally the same price whatever but you will to have to take the drums off to change the long studs although I think if you are on discs its a just a big hammer job. If you were going to get s/hand the wheels needing long studs are a bit easier to find. Also disc brakes require wheels with the large cooling holes as the valve is put in a different place to clear the brake calipers.
In february i replaced my steels. £2,850. 6 rims 60 retro fit nuts 2 carbon fibre liners and 60 wheel nut caps. Durabright rims. Be careful with these rims, they mark easily and you can’t polish out scuffs.
pursy:
Best you find out which is going to work the cheapest ,long studs or retro wheel nuts.
Changing the studs will be the cheapest way, retros are a tenner each although I’ve seen them on fleabay, or wheels with retros included.
pursy:
If you were going to get s/hand the wheels needing long studs are a bit easier to find.
They can be drilled out, I replaced some wheels and had to go to 32mm holes, so I drilled them myself, not a job for the faint hearted though 
I would not recommend Durabrights for quarry/tipper work as Mr Vain said they do mark and stain very easy with wheelwashes etc… 
I would advise buy just ordinary alcoa’s they are alot cheaper than polished/durabrights,and if you want to polish them you can. 
you don’t need to buy 60 studs,you take studs outa drive axle & put them in one of the front axle’s so you only need to buy longer studs for drive axle & other front axle unless it’s a two axle unit then you only have to buy one set.
andy.
I have a set of long studs for a scania 113. If anyone ever needs any.
how much lighter are they than normal rims
on a 6 b 2 unit and tri axle trl your save about 600 kgs