Right people’s- I hope the group experience here can help! We’ve got an old XF 430 as in my pic, not been used in a month or so and had dead batteries… After charging for a few hours it starts up great, runs for 10 mins to charge tanks etc but then won’t turn off with key off and out. Can only turn off by stalling it. Tool for run round yard and other issues are:
-wont turn off
-indicators, wipers and hazards won’t work, but flash/other lights and cruise do
-range change does not work
So far I’ve tried isolating batteries to no avail- and have checked that the gear solenoid is getting an air signal. It is and splitter works fine… (I know the magnets in them are crap but seems like too much at once).
I thought stop solenoid for fuel too, but couldn’t find it? It on a mechanical pump- any idea where it’s located on it?
And if its an ECU etc I’m surprised it still runs etc as its fly by wire etc and that’s all responding- but that said an electrical fault does make sense!
If it has the XE engine with the UPEC fuel system (EURO 3 ) then the Alternator brush box will be your culprit and the inline fuse on the starter motor will be blown…Can people tick to newer models as it hurts having to think back
If you are running an older EURO 2 with an old in line fuel pump of olde ,then it switched off with a mag valve supply air to an air cylinder
If it has a electric throttle it has to have an ECU.Sounds like its picking up a feed from a permanent circuit eg hazards,alternator even interior lights.These are all live with the ignition off.
On some older trucks if you hold the high beam/flash switch up and turn off the ignition the engine keeps running till you let go of the switch.There is a back feed which keeps the ecu live even though you have no signal from the ignition.Once you let go the switch the gates in the ecu open and its isolated again.Thats why on most modern trucks you now cant flash the head lights with the ignition off.But cant understand how it keeps running with the batteries disconnected.How old is this motor?
If it has the XE engine with the UPEC fuel system (EURO 3 ) then the Alternator brush box will be your culprit and the inline fuse on the starter motor will be blown…Can people tick to newer models as it hurts having to think back
If you are running an older EURO 2 with an old in line fuel pump of olde ,then it switched off with a mag valve supply air to an air cylinder
Thanks a lot… It’s a Euro 3 I think with mechanical pump mounted on LHS of the block. Can it be the brush box without the inline fuse having gone? Just if you stall it to kill it, it will crank and restart no issue at all. Can it also cause the indicators etc to play up?
It,s 99% the alternator brushbox ,but you should check the small in line fuse at the starter ,as corrosion may have got in there over time …Also if fuse or joins where the in line fuse holderis connected have corroded ,it can give you the same effect,The brushbox is only a 30 min job on average
I had the same problem with my old Euro 3 430 Daf last winter. The lights wouldn’t turn off, no horn, couldn’t stop the engine with the key, range change working intermittently and more. These problems would come and go one day to the next. My regular mechanic and auto electrician both told me to take it to the local DAF dealer which I did. They found many broken and chaffed wires in the loom that’s on front of cab. Cost about £400 in labour to sort out no problems since
Today the CTU (Central timing unit) was swapped out with one from a crashed cab (fluke of what huh?) and now everything is working as it should be- a total fix. And I’m very happy as it was the first part we changed! Sorted
if in doubt about what it could be is to reset the whole system by breaking every electrical circuit by removing everything in the fuse box then break the power wait for how ever long you want to wait then start putting the power back on and replacing everything in fuse box.
had an old 51 plate cf years ago and it had problems galore. did the above to it and it never went wrong again.
lizard:
if in doubt about what it could be is to reset the whole system by breaking every electrical circuit by removing everything in the fuse box then break the power wait for how ever long you want to wait then start putting the power back on and replacing everything in fuse box.
had an old 51 plate cf years ago and it had problems galore. did the above to it and it never went wrong again.
Sounds like an Apollo 13 Moment-
“Houston, we have a problem”
You’ve only got X amount of Volts & only a few hours of air left !
