most of the time its the other idiots on the road that causes you alot of problems
i hate the going down hills never use to bother me until a couple of years ago when i had a bad experience.
And yes i do wish i had a spare pair of pants that night lol
Think you do farms don’t you if i remember . Get phone numbers of farmer to come pull you out with tratter if you do get stuck
That’s correct. One of our drivers had to be pulled up the drive of one of our farms this week because he couldn’t get any grip, and that was in light rain. 
toby1234abc:
Have to stop the truck to apply the diff lock if going up an icy or steep hill.
Errrrrrrrr… No you don’t! Just make sure the wheels aren’t spinning, you can put it in anytime on the move, it’s usually done in low range though, obviously if you’re belting along at 50mph & you start spinning you need to SLOW DOWN!
Apart from that, the golden rule is to forget all about delivery times, you get there when you get there, also make sure you have plenty of fuel, if you do get stuck you can stay warm, try, if you can, to keep weight on your drive axle to give you some traction, other than that, drive as normal, albeit slower & leave a bit more room around you than usual so you don’t have to slam em on when the ■■■■■■ in front gets it all wrong & they will, you’ll get in trouble if you start swerving around, but you shouldn’t swerve around on a dry road either.
garnerlives:
Suedehead:
deltedThat will probably get deleted, but that was [zb] brilliant
Fair play. If it was deleted, i can go with that but ive never been “delted” before ?
If your running a 4 wheeler try and get 15 or 16T on the pin, also roundabouts or junctions just keep er lit, dont stop.
C-Kay:
That’s correct. One of our drivers had to be pulled up the drive of one of our farms this week because he couldn’t get any grip, and that was in light rain.
Dont know how long you have been on milk tankers, but this is something you will get used to in the winter LMFAO
I spent 3 years on Turners when we had the contract for westbury dairies, 2 on the road, days and nights, and a year in the office.
I think you have most of the trailers up there!
And when you start loading, put it on the front for the first few farms, sometimes you will have to tweak your route aswell and change the order if it means getting into a barsteward of a farm easier.
Exhaust brake/retarder/jake brake OFF on an artic when it’s slippy. The guys who drive in US will tell you otherwise, but that’s because they still have delay on their air brakes over there where we don’t, so it’s the better option for a quick reaction for them. For us it’s simply unnecessarily lethal. 
Lucy:
Exhaust brake/retarder/jake brake OFF on an artic when it’s slippy. The guys who drive in US will tell you otherwise, but that’s because they still have delay on their air brakes over there where we don’t, so it’s the better option for a quick reaction for them. For us it’s simply unnecessarily lethal.
rubbish. exhaust brakes can’t lock up your wheels. a foot brake can. if you press your foot brake in a jacknife you just make it worse, if you use your exhaust brake/retarder you remain in the jacknife without the situation getting worse.
you need plenty of power to pull youself out of the [zb], but don’t floor it. don’t follow too closely to the vehicle in front. take it easy.
the worst thing the fella wants is bad advice.
Actually Limeyphill, you are talking rubbish.
A jake brake/exhaust whatever you want to call it, will only brake on the drive axles giving uneven braking, and if slippery etc can cause the drive wheels to start to slide out!!
I’d definately prefer to have even braking on all axles rather than braking only on one.
Gurner:
Actually Limeyphill, you are talking rubbish.A jake brake/exhaust whatever you want to call it, will only brake on the drive axles giving uneven braking, and if slippery etc can cause the drive wheels to start to slide out!!
it slows the engine. nothing to do with the drive wheels.
i’ve been involved in a near tragic jacknife. i recovered from it. the problem was the abs lead was faulty. the exhaust break and accelorator saved some poor blokes life. so telling someone to switch these things off is a load of foolish advise to me.
the different brakes are there to help.
some situations call for the use of the foot brake, or the retarder, or the exhaust brake. sometimes all three. so why switch them off?
i won’t switch them off. what if i need them?
So by braking on the engine, does this not then slow down the drive wheels through the gearbox/drive shafts?
And the non drive wheels have no extra pressure applied, they are just slowing down as the vehicle is.
So you will infact have more braking on the drive wheels.
Remind me again what causes jacknifes? Oh that’s right the unit slowing down faster than the trailer.
a foot brake is a lot sharper than an exhaust brake. so if you read what i have written properly, then you will see it makes sense.
it is difficult to have a definate answer to recovering from a jacknife, because all circumstances will be different. the best way is to accelorate out of it. but this isn’t always an option. so you have to do something rather than nothing. like slow the truck down very slowly without makeing the problem any worse.
so i’ll stick with the fact that advising someone not to use or to switch off things that are there for our safety is foolish.
An exhaust brake of the butterfly variety may stall the engine if the drive wheels are sitting on ice as an example. Friction has to be maintained between tyre and road, anyone remember the “Hope” anti jack knife device?
Better not to cause it in the first place by using an exhaust brake, eh Phil? 
Lucy:
Better not to cause it in the first place by using an exhaust brake, eh Phil?
i wouldn’t expect that to be possible.
limeyphil:
Lucy:
Better not to cause it in the first place by using an exhaust brake, eh Phil?i wouldn’t expect that to be possible.
Downhill, slippery surface, slight curve, highish revs - exhaust brake enaged - unit slows - trailer don’t so starts to overtake the unit - have I got that about right Lucy 
I am going to go on the side of Limeyphil here. If you imagine the wheels are turning the engine rather then the other way round. When this is happening the engine does slow the wheels down of course,but a lot more gentler than the service brakes would, remember that while the wheels are turning you still have some grip.
Of course the retarder needs to be on a low setting as it is certainly possible to lock the wheels on a damp road if you use position 6.
One vehicle where a butterfly exhaust brake was dangerous was in a DAF when it was actually the engine stop. If you were on slippery ice or snow, the engine could suddenly stop which resulted in no assisted steering.
In my earlier post, I said you had to be smooth, this means smooth on the accelerator, smooth on the steering and smooth on the brakes.
I would rather have a working retarder than any twin steer unit in the snow, with or without lift.