HI ALL OWNER DRIVER,S I AM LOOKIN TO START ON MY OWN BUT DON,T NO HOW TO GO ABOUT IT I HAVE TRACTOR UNIT IN MIND BUT DON,T WANT TO PURCAHSE IT BECAUSE (NO WORK) HOW DO U GO ABOUT FINDING WORK AND WHAT SORT OF INSURANCE DO NEED HOPE U CAN ALL HELP MANY THANK,S CARL
Hi Carlbrum,Having gone down the same route last August I wish I’d have put my money into a house and rented it out.The problems you will encounter are a nightmare you’llstruggle to get an Insurance quote most companies want an o’license number before they will quote.
Then you worry about being paid and balancing the books.If you are really serious about this get on the phone and find out what is out there .You will find plenty of comedians wanting you to run for 98p per mile.When I started ringing round the first call nearly put me off 85p a mile loaded and 75p a mile empty !.
I’m quite lucky as we run a truck 24 hrs a day she’s covered 220000kms since August. We take the same wages as when we were employed but with 10 times the stress.
If I were you I’d stay with the easy life !!!
11 grand for insurance for my 2 tractors and 3 trailers nearly made me have heart failure, but unfortunately what else can be done?
Shop around for quotes, and I mean SHOP!
When people give you quotes, laugh at them and say things like - “you’re [zb] kiddin’ 'aint ya?” They will usually go away and come back with a far cheaper quote.
You’ll need a good service on the unit before it starts work, as you’ve got no idea how it’s been looked after before you. This can cost a bit, but worth it.
Getting work for it is the easy part, but try to go for a company thats been trading for a long time as you don’t want to be left being owed money when they go ■■■’s-up. Also, some firms offer their own goods-in-transit insurance. This is good when first starting out to keep costs down.
Look at European work. Cheap fuel!
Go careful when buying trailers. Traction only is availiable, but you’ve got loads of flexibility if you’ve got your own to pull. Euroliners on conti work are a good investment over a standard curtain jobbie - more options for loading, hence - more options to keep your motor running.
Tyres - get a tyre contract before you turn a wheel.
Some sort of breakdown cover is a must.
If you go European, remember that any mechanical problems cost a hell of a lot more than they do here. Same goes for tyre blow-outs and windscreens. Get yourself covered.
Make sure you can last for at least 3 months without any wages for yourself - you’ll be giving all your money away to various people and companies from day 1 and well before. Trust me - I know - I’m at the end of my first month.
Basically, make sure you know what you’re doing - don’t blow a load of cash on a flash unit, you’ll be very sorry when the money runs out. Always think about “what if?”
If you really want to do the owner-driver route, go for it - but carefully.
Plenty of good advice is availiable, especially on here - but beware the knockers and the Billy Bull [zb]'s.
If I can be of any more help - let me know.
Ian.
i’d echo all of the above but not sure finding work is the easy bit, finding crap work that you’ll earn nothing doing is easy but something for a decent firm that pays something like the right money is hard to come by.
my advice would be, sort some work first, talk to as many as possible, see what the rates are and just as importantly see how you get paid!
weigh it all up based on the fact that deisel is likely to hit a £1 a litre in your first year and then see if it’s going to be worth investing ten k minimum into, and don’t be blikered into thinking artic or nothing as theres some good money to be made with rigids.
hope this helps
paul
I am now into my sixth month and I have only just been able to pay myself a decent wage. There are a lot of comedians who as already stated will try it on but I have managed to get a traction only which pays £1.20 a mile loaded and £1.00 return loaded or empty. It is hard work and you do wonder every day whether or not its worth the hassle but all I can say is I am glad I took the plunge and I will make it work.
Good luck and if you need any advice don’t hesitae to drop me a pm
A lot of companies will always say that 7 1/2 tonners pay better - I would be very inclined to believe them. Ridgids as well - especially a wagon and drag are something else to look at.
With regards to UK or European work, I’m not sure if there is any difference.
UK work pays more, but the fuel bills are crippling, and the traffic and tipping times at RDC’s etc can make for a very frustrating job.
Euro work pay is lower, but so are the fuel bills. Trafffic is miles better on the roads, and there isn’t normally a 4 hour wait to get tipped at places.
Don’t go for Euro work that pays by the mile - you could end up with a load of short deliveries that take ages to load or tip. If you know what you’re being paid to do the whole job, you can tailor it to suit yourself with regards to routes and running times, and you will also get a better idea of wether it is going to pay or not.
Ian.
I HAVE TAKEN ALL UR ADVICE WHICH IS APRECIATED I AM GOING TO HAVE TO LOOK FURTHER INTO THE WORK BIT AT THIS STAGE I THINK IT IS THE BEST OPTOIN SEE WHAT I CAN GET OFFERD THANK,S ALL FOR UR REPLY CHEERS CARL
Never mind a Tractor unit ,we should all be pushing a taxi around at least we would be on about £1.30 a mile !!!