newmercman:
Add this to a premature EGR cooler and DPF clean
Together with the injectors, one can certainly link these to excessive idle.
No you can attribute that to my maintenance regime, Volvo say to do the clean at 650,000kms on normal duty, I did mine at 350,000kms and again at 700,000kms, I use the heavy duty service intervals less a certain amount, depending on when it suits me to have the truck off the road, so it’s done before it’s necessary, that’s just another way of saying prematurely.
As for injectors, they’re a common problem on the D13 over here, the injector cups are even more problematic, it’s very rare for a D13 to get through a 800,000km warranty without having the cups changed at least once.
So once again, you think you know it all because you’ve read a driver’s handbook and it turns out that you don’t. Keep up the good work…
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One of our Romanian O/D’s with a fairly new FH4 500 was heard cursing it, China truck he was shouting, the trouble it had given him in a short time was astonishing. They really have gone downhill recently, can’t believe they still sell like they do as not many have a good word for them anymore.
D13 or MP8 same engine injector cups just keep on replacing them, only good Volvo part on a Mack is the Mshift(ishift) …normal service to be resumed warming up an engie
I must admit Volvo are poor at the moment over here, electrical problems,injector sleeves, general build quality, and also the I shift g/ box being not reliable, they have lost a lot of ground to Scania in the 8 wheeler tipper market.
On top of that the main dealers seem to be getting a bashing as well!
The Volvo has its share of problems, no doubt about that, but so do the alternatives and every manufacturer out there has the ability to make a complete lemon, so it’s a matter of luck as much as anything else. I honestly couldn’t say that one current model truck is better than another. I really like the Volvo, they go well, get good mpg, they are nice to drive and the cab layout is without question the best there is.
Having said that, the service from the dealer is of paramount importance, my own experiences with Volvo leave a lot to be desired. In contrast I’ve had a couple of issues with the Peterbilt, the regulator on the alternator went boss eyed after the wash boy went mad with a fire hose, I went to Peterbilt and was in and out within half an hour, the starter wouldn’t disengage a few weeks later and after disconnecting it from the electrical supply and hitting it with a hammer to get it to disengage, I got a tow start from a friendly driver, I literally drove it straight into the workshop and was off again in less than an hour. A very different experience and one that puts Peterbilt at the top of my list for my next truck.
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newmercman:
No you can attribute that to my maintenance regime, Volvo say to do the clean at 650,000kms on normal duty, I did mine at 350,000kms and again at 700,000kms, I use the heavy duty service intervals less a certain amount, depending on when it suits me to have the truck off the road, so it’s done before it’s necessary, that’s just another way of saying prematurely.As for injectors, they’re a common problem on the D13 over here, the injector cups are even more problematic, it’s very rare for a D13 to get through a 800,000km warranty without having the cups changed at least once.
So once again, you think you know it all because you’ve read a driver’s handbook and it turns out that you don’t. Keep up the good work…
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Surprisingly I’m not aware of either injector problems on the D13 or regular cleaning of the exhaust systems this side of the pond. I wonder why? My driver’s handbook doesn’t help me with telling the forest from the trees either…
We’ve had DPF over here since the EPA 07 regulations, so DPF cleaning is an established part of routine maintenance for us. At first DPF was a big problem, but since EPA 10 and the addition of SCR, the ratio of EGR is lower and that keeps them from clogging up as fast and cleaning intervals have been extended.
Originally the 2010 compliant D13 had 400,000km intervals, but they raised it to 650,000 a few months after I put my one on the road. That’s for normal duty cycle operations. Since I run at double the GVW, I stick to the original 400,000km schedule, but got it in early as it made sense to have it done while the truck was parked anyway as my driver was out in the bush shooting Moose for a week.
The D13 when idling overnight, which it will be doing currently as it’s -30c or lower right now will run in clean idle mode, to achieve this you just leave it at a dead idle and the ECM controls everything, it puts the engine under load at times (No idea how) to keep the temperature up, but it will still do a regen every night in winter, in summer it doesn’t do that. I don’t know if that’s because of the temperature or because of the winter blend fuel. I’m any case, my DPF wasn’t close to being full when I had it cleaned, so idling doesn’t appear to have a detrimental effect on the filter, which is a good thing.
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Soo… in Europe, where trucks have night heaters and coolers and an infinite number of local jurisdictions limit idle running to one minute, I couldn’t even find the price for a DPF cleaning in the price list of the local Scania dealer, the list itself is six pages long. Coincidentally, I’ve never heard of this type of procedure being required.
But across the pond, where the life expectancy of a starter motor will probably exceed that of the truck it is connected to, it’s part of regural maintenance.
See the conundrum here?
Different horses for different courses, it’s what I’ve been saying from the start, I do things the way I do as I see it’s the best way in MY operation, I’ve never tried to convince anybody else that they’re doing it wrong.
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newmercman:
For the purpose of comparison, I started my truck and set off straight away a few days ago, it was -10c overnight, I had a light load in one trailer and the other one was empty, I was on flat ground and traffic was light. I won’t be doing it again, I’ll tell you that for free, it sounded bloody awful, the oil pressure was at 90psi (usually at 60psi) until coolant temperature came up to 130deg and slowly dropped to 60psi as the temperature came up.Time wise, it was a good 5mins until it was at operating temperature and that’s with a winter front restricting ambient airflow through the radiator and intercooler, I was on and off the throttle as if it was a raw egg and even at the low GVW it took a stupidly long time to get up to cruising speed.
As I said, I won’t be doing it again, no matter what I read in a handbook or on a forum. I’m looking to get over 35,000hrs out of this CAT engine before I rebuild it, so I guess I’ll have to report back with my findings in 10yrs when that time comes, if I’m still around then.
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So the pump relief valve had frozen too?
what a load of crap.
And you are going to “rebuild” an engine!
That I would love to see.No doubt another “technician”
Bking:
newmercman:
For the purpose of comparison, I started my truck and set off straight away a few days ago, it was -10c overnight, I had a light load in one trailer and the other one was empty, I was on flat ground and traffic was light. I won’t be doing it again, I’ll tell you that for free, it sounded bloody awful, the oil pressure was at 90psi (usually at 60psi) until coolant temperature came up to 130deg and slowly dropped to 60psi as the temperature came up.Time wise, it was a good 5mins until it was at operating temperature and that’s with a winter front restricting ambient airflow through the radiator and intercooler, I was on and off the throttle as if it was a raw egg and even at the low GVW it took a stupidly long time to get up to cruising speed.
As I said, I won’t be doing it again, no matter what I read in a handbook or on a forum. I’m looking to get over 35,000hrs out of this CAT engine before I rebuild it, so I guess I’ll have to report back with my findings in 10yrs when that time comes, if I’m still around then.
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So the pump relief valve had frozen too?
what a load of crap.
And you are going to “rebuild” an engine!
That I would love to see.No doubt another “technician”
What are you babbling on about now? Nothing had frozen, but the oil was as thick as treacle and the ambient temperature was super cooling the engine as it flowed through the grille and around the engine, increasing warm up time significantly.
No, I will not personally be rebuilding the engine, I will be using a CAT approved workshop to do it so I can get the 4yr unlimited mileage warranty, some of the “new” parts are remanufactured now as the engine went out of production in 2003, so better safe than sorry, plus these CATs will blow a head gasket if the liner protrusion is not perfectly set and that’s a fortune to sort out, better to let the warranty deal with that than my wallet.
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newmercman:
Different horses for different courses, it’s what I’ve been saying from the start, I do things the way I do as I see it’s the best way in MY operation, I’ve never tried to convince anybody else that they’re doing it wrong.Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
. 
Just as well since I’m sure someone would be ridiculing your methods.
No cav, the loon agrees with me on this, it’s why I tried it the other way, if he thinks it’s right, I must be doing it wrong lol
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newmercman:
Bking:
newmercman:
For the purpose of comparison, I started my truck and set off straight away a few days ago, it was -10c overnight, I had a light load in one trailer and the other one was empty, I was on flat ground and traffic was light. I won’t be doing it again, I’ll tell you that for free, it sounded bloody awful, the oil pressure was at 90psi (usually at 60psi) until coolant temperature came up to 130deg and slowly dropped to 60psi as the temperature came up.Time wise, it was a good 5mins until it was at operating temperature and that’s with a winter front restricting ambient airflow through the radiator and intercooler, I was on and off the throttle as if it was a raw egg and even at the low GVW it took a stupidly long time to get up to cruising speed.
As I said, I won’t be doing it again, no matter what I read in a handbook or on a forum. I’m looking to get over 35,000hrs out of this CAT engine before I rebuild it, so I guess I’ll have to report back with my findings in 10yrs when that time comes, if I’m still around then.
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So the pump relief valve had frozen too?
what a load of crap.
And you are going to “rebuild” an engine!
That I would love to see.No doubt another “technician”What are you babbling on about now? Nothing had frozen, but the oil was as thick as treacle and the ambient temperature was super cooling the engine as it flowed through the grille and around the engine, increasing warm up time significantly.
No, I will not personally be rebuilding the engine, I will be using a CAT approved workshop to do it so I can get the 4yr unlimited mileage warranty, some of the “new” parts are remanufactured now as the engine went out of production in 2003, so better safe than sorry, plus these CATs will blow a head gasket if the liner protrusion is not perfectly set and that’s a fortune to sort out, better to let the warranty deal with that than my wallet.
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So this CAT engine does not have a pressure relief valve in the oil pump?
The idea is that a maximum pressure is reached.If it rises above that the ball valve lifts of its seat and dumps pressure back into the sump.Some older engines have a relief valve on the main gallery but nearly all modern engines have it located inside the pump body. Thats what Im “babbling” about.
Mind you could have been the “super cooling” effect!!!
Well then Bking, please enlighten me as to what I should do with my engine?
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Run it unless it manages to bypass the bypass.Then clearly its started super cooling again.
Sorry I said 90psi oil pressure, that should have said 80psi. Sausage fingers! Either way it sounds terrible starting at minus 20c or colder, like really terrible, I couldn’t drive off with it like that, no way.
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Complete waste of time, the engine won’t warm up unless it is under load. The only bit that will warm up is the cylinder head. Also all the other components (gearbox ,axles etc) will still be stone cold.