Warming up an engine

CF

I’m not trying to persuade anyone with a brainwave I’ve just had. I’m following the advice from both a highly reputable engine building and research company and the manufacturer. They say don’t warm by idling. Pretty clear cut. If I followed what you’re saying I’d be going against that guidance. I Trust my sources more than your opinion.

If for nothing else I trust my sources more than you as you misunderstood the cause of wet stacking when disagreeing with bking.

At the end of the day it’s no use disagreeing with me. I’m following advice given to me. If it states in a vehicle manual not to warm by idling, but to warm by driving in xyz fashion, do as I did and ask the company why, or ask a reputable professional like I did. If you still disagree with them that’s when your and I’s approach parts company. My life’s work hasn’t been spent rebuilding XYZ engines so I respect the opinion of someone who has.

Freight Dog:
CF

I’m not trying to persuade anyone with a brainwave I’ve just had. I’m following the advice from both a highly reputable engine building and research company and the manufacturer. They say don’t warm by idling. Pretty clear cut. If I followed what you’re saying I’d be going against that guidance. I Trust my sources more than your opinion.

If for nothing else I trust my sources more than you as you misunderstood the cause of wet stacking when disagreeing with bking.

At the end of the day it’s no use disagreeing with me. I’m following advice given to me. If it states in a vehicle manual not to warm by idling, but to warm by driving in xyz fashion, do as I did and ask the company why, or ask a reputable professional like I did. If you still disagree with them that’s when your and I’s approach parts company. My life’s work hasn’t been spent rebuilding XYZ engines so I respect the opinion of someone who has.

You seem to have missed the point that the evidence which you’re relying on,in the form of operators manuals,is also just as contentious in that there are obviously examples of ‘manuals’ which obviously also support the idea of warming an engine at idle not under load.Surely you’re not now going to only selectively refer to whichever manual suits your personal view.As opposed to an objective view which gives equal weight to both sides of the debate and that the whole question isn’t as clear cut as you seem to think ?.

As for Biking he didn’t seem to be able to answer the question as to how the same cold cylinder won’t actually be subjected to more fuel wash by warming it under under load than at idle.Let alone the idea of oil coolers not having a dedicated thermostat control.

My own view is that it’s all a question of modern day political correctness to minimise perceived ‘eco’ issues v old accepted good practice. :bulb: :wink:

Ive never done oil analysis and always driven off after starting (excepting frozen screens when the night heater wasnt working) but have never had to have an engine stripped for repair due to wear. My trucks throughout the years F7 224, MAN V10, F10, F12 400 edc, F16 470, Fh13 500 have all had oil changes at half service intervals using premium synthetic and OE filters. The only turbo ive ever had to replace was on the F12. All of these have been driven hard, ive either been just lucky or have been doing something right, Oil analysis always strikes me as trying to get the maximum life from the engine oil which to my mind isnt always a good thing…

I aint no expert on oil analysis or anything else for that matter an dont pretend to be, but I’ll just try to explain how we did it on marine engines. We had a slope angled type bit of plastic with two channels, took a sample of old oil in one suction tube and same amount of new oil in the other then thru a double syringe squirted both samples into the top of the slope and depending on the time it took to collect at the bottom then the viscosity was considered OK or not, oil filters were changed at same time.

Freight Dog:
CF … If you still disagree with them that’s when your and I’s approach parts company.

I’m going to challenge on “deviation from the English language as we know it” :laughing:

Carryfast:

Freight Dog:
CF

I’m not trying to persuade anyone with a brainwave I’ve just had. I’m following the advice from both a highly reputable engine building and research company and the manufacturer. They say don’t warm by idling. Pretty clear cut. If I followed what you’re saying I’d be going against that guidance. I Trust my sources more than your opinion.

If for nothing else I trust my sources more than you as you misunderstood the cause of wet stacking when disagreeing with bking.

At the end of the day it’s no use disagreeing with me. I’m following advice given to me. If it states in a vehicle manual not to warm by idling, but to warm by driving in xyz fashion, do as I did and ask the company why, or ask a reputable professional like I did. If you still disagree with them that’s when your and I’s approach parts company. My life’s work hasn’t been spent rebuilding XYZ engines so I respect the opinion of someone who has.

You seem to have missed the point that the evidence which you’re relying on,in the form of operators manuals,is also just as contentious in that there are obviously examples of ‘manuals’ which obviously also support the idea of warming an engine at idle not under load.Surely you’re not now going to only selectively refer to whichever manual suits your personal view.As opposed to an objective view which gives equal weight to both sides of the debate and that the whole question isn’t as clear cut as you seem to think ?.

As for Biking he didn’t seem to be able to answer the question as to how the same cold cylinder won’t actually be subjected to more fuel wash by warming it under under load than at idle.Let alone the idea of oil coolers not having a dedicated thermostat control.

My own view is that it’s all a question of modern day political correctness to minimise perceived ‘eco’ issues v old accepted good practice. :bulb: :wink:

That is a lot of text triangulating around the owners manual. Sorry to disappoint you, however far from missing the point, I did mention I backed all this by speaking to an engine building company. That piece of information seems to have come adrift from your response

I don’t follow you on “I’m selecting a manual that suits my view”? That is a wild assertion. I’m following the manual that was provided with my vehicle. I backed this up by advice. I think I’ve made this clear several times in this thread, follow the relevant procedures and advice for a particular vehicle.

Re it being a large political conspiracy, I doubt the firm I spoke to would toe such a line. They “ain’t them sorts of folks” (apologies to any language enthusiasts thinking we’re on just a minute :smiley: )

You seem to still misunderstand exactly why oil dilution can occur at low rpm rather than higher combustion temps. I don’t know why bking didn’t respond. He’d have had a point to make. Maybe he was bored :grimacing:

Rjan:

Freight Dog:
CF … If you still disagree with them that’s when your and I’s approach parts company.

I’m going to challenge on “deviation from the English language as we know it” :laughing:

Sorry called severe jet lag. You’re lucky you have words out of me. Normally involves dribbling the first day :smiley:

AndrewG:
To save paying for oil analysis and to be on the safe side i always have the oil and filters changed at half the recommended service intervals, same goes for the fuel filters. Expensive but peace of mind…

What’s yr manufacturer interval on yours?

Freight Dog:
You seem to still misunderstand exactly why oil dilution can occur at low rpm rather than higher combustion temps. I don’t know why bking didn’t respond. He’d have had a point to make. Maybe he was bored :grimacing:

I’m assuming you can read a fuel map.

rcsperformanceengineering.co … 20Map2.jpg

It’s clear that whatever arguable ‘benefits’ might be provided,by warming the cylinder temperatures up ‘quicker’,using more load,they are negated by pumping in ( a lot ) ‘more fuel’ while you’re doing it.IE the cylinders are just as cold as during idling it’s just that they might warm up relatively ‘quicker’ although even that’s probably marginal.Which isn’t a lot of help when you’ve thrown in massive amounts of unnecessary extra fuel than you needed to while the cylinders were still cold regardless.

While surely a fast temp increase applied to the components as opposed to slow and steady just puts more stress on the engine not less.Just like ideally you wouldn’t want to go from hot to cold as soon as possible so why ok in reverse.

So I’ll still go with eco conspiracy rather than any good argument for loading up a cold engine.

to me it works like this.
if you are driving your own truck,or working for someone with a face on a personal basis,then gently gently and treat it with respect till hot.
if its a fleet truck beancounter employer,then rev the nuts out of it as and when it suits,as nobody cares.
most will be on r&m and similar to not letting it idle for more than 3 mins ,they dont pay for the starters only the fuel,so who cares.

dieseldog999:
to me it works like this.
if you are driving your own truck,or working for someone with a face on a personal basis,then gently gently and treat it with respect till hot.
if its a fleet truck beancounter employer,then rev the nuts out of it as and when it suits,as nobody cares.
most will be on r&m and similar to not letting it idle for more than 3 mins ,they dont pay for the starters only the fuel,so who cares.

The argument as to who gives a zb depending on the type of guvnor is obviously different to what’s best.

Which just leaves the question as to how keen the guvnor is on maintaining the night heater in best condition.So long as that’s also sorted I’d agree with you.If it’s a big fleet employer who’s calling for minimising idling to save a few bob in fuel,at the possible expense of durability or maybe not,then who cares.Use the night heater to keep the cab warm whenever the engine is off and just drive it as normal regardless of engine temp.Which then leaves the question of that being factored into the residual values by anyone buying the thing used.

Having said that there is the third type of guvnor who doesn’t care about idling time either way and just leaves it up to the driver to choose if they want to use idling to warm up the engine and/or keep it warm in cold weather.Or to keep the cab warm if/when the night heater isn’t in use,or isn’t fitted,or isn’t working.My time in the job luckily always being a case of that third type of employer. :wink:

Carryfast:

Freight Dog:
You seem to still misunderstand exactly why oil dilution can occur at low rpm rather than higher combustion temps. I don’t know why bking didn’t respond. He’d have had a point to make. Maybe he was bored :grimacing:

I’m assuming you can read a fuel map.

rcsperformanceengineering.co … 20Map2.jpg

It’s clear that whatever arguable ‘benefits’ might be provided,by warming the cylinder temperatures up ‘quicker’,using more load,they are negated by pumping in ( a lot ) ‘more fuel’ while you’re doing it.IE the cylinders are just as cold as during idling it’s just that they might warm up relatively ‘quicker’ although even that’s probably marginal.Which isn’t a lot of help when you’ve thrown in massive amounts of unnecessary extra fuel than you needed to while the cylinders were still cold regardless.

While surely a fast temp increase applied to the components as opposed to slow and steady just puts more stress on the engine not less.Just like ideally you wouldn’t want to go from hot to cold as soon as possible so why ok in reverse.

I’m just wondering do you apply this logic to any other area of your life? Like warming your oven up gently, freezing your food gently, putting the mircowave on half-heat when there’s a plate inside, turning the central heating up gradually? :laughing:

One has to maintain a sense of proportion between concerns and balance them, to avoid unreasonable obsessions and compulsions. Yes, the heating of rigid solid parts in an uneven way causes stress, in proportion to the temperature differential created across different areas of the part. Excess stress will cause fatigue and cracking. That is the principle.

But how hot is too hot, and how much unevenness of temperature is too much? A well-engineered engine will have enough quality and robustness to cope with the stress of starting up and normal driving without suffering failure before time.

In the same way that a well-engineered building will have girders of sufficient strength to bear the weight without collapsing immediately or in the foreseeable future - the fact that an unstressed girder might last for eons, and a stressed one only for millenia, is just part and parcel of the fact that girders are not built as static monuments, but to be used in real, useful, buildings which have to support weight.

That’s the point, that engines are built not to have to be molly-coddled and cared for with too much attention. They’re designed to do useful work, and operate conveniently. The stresses imposed by starting them up, are already compensated for by designing in sufficient strength and robustness to cope with them being driven away immediately.

So I’ll still go with eco conspiracy rather than any good argument for loading up a cold engine.

What’s conspiratorial about the fact that it’s not sensible to waste fuel and clog our lungs?

Rjan:

Carryfast:

Freight Dog:
You seem to still misunderstand exactly why oil dilution can occur at low rpm rather than higher combustion temps. I don’t know why bking didn’t respond. He’d have had a point to make. Maybe he was bored :grimacing:

I’m assuming you can read a fuel map.

rcsperformanceengineering.co … 20Map2.jpg

It’s clear that whatever arguable ‘benefits’ might be provided,by warming the cylinder temperatures up ‘quicker’,using more load,they are negated by pumping in ( a lot ) ‘more fuel’ while you’re doing it.IE the cylinders are just as cold as during idling it’s just that they might warm up relatively ‘quicker’ although even that’s probably marginal.Which isn’t a lot of help when you’ve thrown in massive amounts of unnecessary extra fuel than you needed to while the cylinders were still cold regardless.

While surely a fast temp increase applied to the components as opposed to slow and steady just puts more stress on the engine not less.Just like ideally you wouldn’t want to go from hot to cold as soon as possible so why ok in reverse.

I’m just wondering do you apply this logic to any other area of your life? Like warming your oven up gently, freezing your food gently, putting the mircowave on half-heat when there’s a plate inside, turning the central heating up gradually? :laughing:

One has to maintain a sense of proportion between concerns and balance them, to avoid unreasonable obsessions and compulsions. Yes, the heating of rigid solid parts in an uneven way causes stress

What’s conspiratorial about the fact that it’s not sensible to waste fuel and clog our lungs?

So your final sentence actually confirms my suspicions.Appeasement of the eco agenda not what’s best for the engine.

You do know that fast large scale temperature fluctuations within the highly stressed nature and structure of an engine isn’t exactly the same thing as lighting up the grill to cook a piece of toast. :unamused: In addition to all the other variables involved in applying load to an engine during the warming process.Including that question of fuel washing oil off the bores.When we know that the bores are just as cold as they are in the case of an idling engine.But an idling engine is obviously putting in a lot less fuel to do it than an engine under load is.

CF

I can follow my car manual. I can follow advice from a specialist engine builders. Or follow your opnion. I’ll follow the engineers and my car manual if that’s ok. You do what you want to. If your jag manual says idle to warm, follow it! If it doesn’t, do what you want. Don’t care.

Shall we leave it at that? :smiley:

Freight Dog:
CF

I can take heed of guidance from my manufacturer’s car manual. You do what you want to, don’t mind.

Shall we leave it at that? :smiley:

Absolutely.While also giving equal weight to the truck engine operator’s manual posted which supports the use of idle to warm an engine as opposed to load. :wink:

Carryfast:

dieseldog999:
to me it works like this.
if you are driving your own truck,or working for someone with a face on a personal basis,then gently gently and treat it with respect till hot.
if its a fleet truck beancounter employer,then rev the nuts out of it as and when it suits,as nobody cares.
most will be on r&m and similar to not letting it idle for more than 3 mins ,they dont pay for the starters only the fuel,so who cares.

The argument as to who gives a zb depending on the type of guvnor is obviously different to what’s best.

Which just leaves the question as to how keen the guvnor is on maintaining the night heater in best condition.So long as that’s also sorted I’d agree with you.If it’s a big fleet employer who’s calling for minimising idling to save a few bob in fuel,at the possible expense of durability or maybe not,then who cares.Use the night heater to keep the cab warm whenever the engine is off and just drive it as normal regardless of engine temp.Which then leaves the question of that being factored into the residual values by anyone buying the thing used.

Having said that there is the third type of guvnor who doesn’t care about idling time either way and just leaves it up to the driver to choose if they want to use idling to warm up the engine and/or keep it warm in cold weather.Or to keep the cab warm if/when the night heater isn’t in use,or isn’t fitted,or isn’t working.My time in the job luckily always being a case of that third type of employer. :wink:

the third type is what id have mostly worked for with very few exceptions.for them,they got treated with the respect,or contempt they deserved… :slight_smile:

Carryfast:

Freight Dog:
CF

I can take heed of guidance from my manufacturer’s car manual. You do what you want to, don’t mind.

Shall we leave it at that? :smiley:

Absolutely.While also giving equal weight to the truck engine operator’s manual posted which supports the use of idle to warm an engine as opposed to load. :wink:

Why thanks :laughing: . I won’t give weight to anything where it goes against engineers recommendations or laid down procedures. But I’ve always said that. If it says to warm by driving in xyz fashion in the manual, then that’s what I’d stand by. But you go your way and I’ll go mine :smiley:

Carryfast:

Rjan:
I’m just wondering do you apply this logic to any other area of your life? Like warming your oven up gently, freezing your food gently, putting the mircowave on half-heat when there’s a plate inside, turning the central heating up gradually? :laughing:

One has to maintain a sense of proportion between concerns and balance them, to avoid unreasonable obsessions and compulsions. Yes, the heating of rigid solid parts in an uneven way causes stress

What’s conspiratorial about the fact that it’s not sensible to waste fuel and clog our lungs?

So your final sentence actually confirms my suspicions.Appeasement of the eco agenda not what’s best for the engine.

I have no special interest in the eco agenda, but I don’t see why obvious waste and proven harms in urban areas should be disregarded.

You do know that fast large scale temperature fluctuations within the highly stressed nature and structure of an engine isn’t exactly the same thing as lighting up the grill to cook a piece of toast. :unamused:

What can possibly be more stressful than a heating element having electric current applied to the point of being white hot? What about a central heating system, where a heat exchanger is literally subjected to fire, and the pump goes from stone cold to scalding?

Anyway, the point is, I think you’re overstating the effect of temperature stress on the engine. The engine is designed with enough resilience to tolerate the stress of normal use.

In addition to all the other variables involved in applying load to an engine during the warming process.Including that question of fuel washing oil off the bores.When we know that the bores are just as cold as they are in the case of an idling engine.But an idling engine is obviously putting in a lot less fuel to do it than an engine under load is.

But how severe actually is this oil-washing effect? It may exist in principle, but if it’s just a trifling effect then it’s not worth being concerned with.

There’s a simple reason I like to warm things up, the sound of the engine, when it’s cold it sounds like a washing machine full of nuts and bolts, a bit of heat in it and it sounds much smoother, I’m assuming that the metal parts haven’t changed in size as the temperature difference is minimal, but that the oil has thinned out and is cushioning the blow of metal to metal contact, which is another way of saying lubrication.

Just to add a little something to the thread, I have a Webasto engine heater fitted on my Volvo, it’s basically a night heater for the engine, it heats things up nicely, depending on ambient temperature it will bring coolant temperature up to 170deg in anything from 30mins to 2hrs.

On the CAT I have a Thermo King TriPac APU, a donkey engine that shares coolant with the big engine, it kicks it when coolant temperature reaches a certain point and keeps the batteries charged, it also has an A/C facility to avoid idling all night in summer. It cost me $13,000 but will pay for itself in extended engine life and fuel costs over the lifetime of the big engine.

A bit of a contradiction you may think, advocating idling in one breath and not in the next, but there’s idling and idling, my ears tell me that warming up before setting off is kinder to the engine, my common sense tells me that excessive idling is bad for my engines.

I’ve definitely put my money where my mouth is on this issue, it is an issue too, if it wasn’t the likes of Thermo King and Webasto would not make things that warm engines to avoid running with a cold engine.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

newmercman:
There’s a simple reason I like to warm things up, the sound of the engine, when it’s cold it sounds like a washing machine full of nuts and bolts, a bit of heat in it and it sounds much smoother, I’m assuming that the metal parts haven’t changed in size as the temperature difference is minimal, but that the oil has thinned out and is cushioning the blow of metal to metal contact, which is another way of saying lubrication.

But multi-grade oils are designed to maintain their viscosity fairly consistently, not to “thin out” as they increase in temperature (or thicken out when they are cold, depending on which way around you think about it). Granted they do change viscosity slightly, but not so much as to impair lubrication at any normal temperature.

There isn’t a single point at which viscosity is just right, outside of which additional wear occurs - rather, within a certain range, any viscosity will do, the outer limit on one side being the ability of the oil to flow and penetrate into the parts under reasonable oil pressures (greases would struggle to penetrate), and the outer limit on the other side being the ability of the oil to bear the pressure exerted by the parts without being squeezed out (thin oils and solvents having almost no ability to resist displacement).

I’m led to believe cold engines tend to be a bit clattery because the temperature affects the timing and behaviour of combustion, causing noise in two ways, firstly by affecting the timing of ignition itself, and secondly because the whole engine is tighter and less efficient when cold which requires slightly more fuel to be burnt to get it to turn over against its own internal resistance (making it noisier relative to the set idle speed). And of course there are various auxiliary systems where rubber belts, pulleys, and gaskets will be a bit stiff and less accomodating, plastic covers are a little bit more rigid and resonant, bearings and shafts which are a little bit tighter than when warm, and so on, and the noise properties of the engine are of course finely tuned to be best at normal operating temperature (if it were tuned to be most quiet when cold, it would become slightly noisier when at operating temperature). None of it necessarily indicates that anything is out of order or suffering undue wear due to inadequate lubrication.

Just to add a little something to the thread, I have a Webasto engine heater fitted on my Volvo, it’s basically a night heater for the engine, it heats things up nicely, depending on ambient temperature it will bring coolant temperature up to 170deg in anything from 30mins to 2hrs.

On the CAT I have a Thermo King TriPac APU, a donkey engine that shares coolant with the big engine, it kicks it when coolant temperature reaches a certain point and keeps the batteries charged, it also has an A/C facility to avoid idling all night in summer. It cost me $13,000 but will pay for itself in extended engine life and fuel costs over the lifetime of the big engine.

A bit of a contradiction you may think, advocating idling in one breath and not in the next, but there’s idling and idling, my ears tell me that warming up before setting off is kinder to the engine, my common sense tells me that excessive idling is bad for my engines.

I’ve definitely put my money where my mouth is on this issue, it is an issue too, if it wasn’t the likes of Thermo King and Webasto would not make things that warm engines to avoid running with a cold engine.

Well to be honest, third parties will make anything that sells in the marketplace, whether they be engine heaters or santa outfits for dogs. The more pertinent question is why, if they have an appreciable effect in normal climates, do the engine manufacturers not fit them as standard (or at least push them as options that any sensible person would want to purchase)?