I fear I already know the answer to this, but is there a standard pinout for the 7 pin plug when used for a wander lead on a tail lift?
Out of 3 leads I could lay my hands on this morning 2 did nothing and 1 would lift but not drop the lift.
So I am fairly happy that the socket on the tail lift control needs looking at, the fact I can get different results from leads to hand makes me fear the connections used is more random than standardised.
have you tried the leads in different trucks to see what happens?
if they work in others the problem is obv on your truck socket/connection
last place i worked smallish company driveres were always heavy handed pulling them out and breaking the wires in the lead connection.
if there standard square yellow plastic box type control. theres only 3 wires connecting it. take apart wires are normally printed with very small number then just match that to corresponding pin. as i was for ever having to replace loose wires.
hope this helps.cant be more specific as to colors etc as not there no more
edd1974:
have you tried the leads in different trucks to see what happens?
if they work in others the problem is obv on your truck socket/connectionlast place i worked smallish company driveres were always heavy handed pulling them out and breaking the wires in the lead connection.
if there standard square yellow plastic box type control. theres only 3 wires connecting it. take apart wires are normally printed with very small number then just match that to corresponding pin. as i was for ever having to replace loose wires.
hope this helps.cant be more specific as to colors etc as not there no more
Thanks, I will take a look in the back of the plug, Ive a decent chance of getting back today while our regular fitter is on site too so he can make it work all being well.
This truck is one of two we have with this brand of tail lift. There was a time where somehow someone had cut a second slot in the plug shell and you could fit the socket in two orientations 180 degrees apart. One fitting position did work just like this one.is, works in one direction but not the other. There are a few 12 tonners with different tail lifts, the only other wagons I could get to were 2 of these, and the leads they had didn’t work in either direction, or vise versa in this truck. So Ive kinda answered the question already that it looks possible that there are at least two ways they can come wired, unless this one has been messed around with enough over time that its far from its original wiring at the socket or plug too.
Sometimes the simplest solution is the most likely.
The rubber cable grip on the plug doesn’t really bite down on the cable as it’s quite thin, and being a curly cord always has some tension on it when in use.
Ok each cable sleeve be a small printed number hopefully just match that up to corresponding pin. And bobs your uncle.
At last place I worked was for ever putting wires back.in. as people drag them about drop them and and are heavy handed. And as you found doesn’t take much to pull wire out
If someone had crimped a terminal, or put a blob of solder, on the end of the wires, the screws wouldn`t damage the individual strands of copper and it would last longer.
Not summat a driver can do at the roadside, but should be done in a workshop.
We know they are all standing around drinking tea until we show up, and then they rush around looking busy.
While I am passing the time in a 12 ton today with I think. DEL lift, the pins used are 1-3 on this (and crimped as Franglais mentioned)
we have 5 tail lift trailers, and all were wired slightly differently. Each manufacturer had their own wiring set up.
I changed the wiring on the rear of the plugs so that they were all identical, and as each vehicle has their own wander lead, they can now plug in and get it to work irrespective of branded tail lift.
Not sure why the manufacturers could not have a standard set up though. Now if I have to replace the wander lead at any time, I just make sure they are wired to the correct pins for the setup I have concoted.
Franglais:
If someone had crimped a terminal, or put a blob of solder, on the end of the wires, the screws wouldn`t damage the individual strands of copper and it would last longer.Not summat a driver can do at the roadside, but should be done in a workshop.
We know they are all standing around drinking tea until we show up, and then they rush around looking busy.
Problem with the blob of solder approach when using screw terminals is that the solder “cold flows” under the clamping pressure, leading to the clamped joint loosening over time. The electrical connection rapidly becomes unreliable although it can be recovered by (repeatedly) retightening the screw.
For reliability, crimped “bootlace” ferrules should be used, although leaving the copper strands naked is almost as good.
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tc trans:
we have 5 tail lift trailers, and all were wired slightly differently. Each manufacturer had their own wiring set up.
I changed the wiring on the rear of the plugs so that they were all identical, and as each vehicle has their own wander lead, they can now plug in and get it to work irrespective of branded tail lift.
Not sure why the manufacturers could not have a standard set up though. Now if I have to replace the wander lead at any time, I just make sure they are wired to the correct pins for the setup I have concoted.
I was thinking if there were 2 or 3 styles, if you could wire a wander lead up to be universal - if the supply pin was always say 1 or 2 and outputs were either 3 and 6 or 4 and 5, you could put a bridge link across pairs. If the supply and output pins swapped across that would become more challenging.
