hi ,anyone checked , adjusted the top end on a Euro 6 if so how does it differ to previous procedure ive got 2 D11 450s to check as coming up to 2yrs old ,i think they have done away with fork shape shim for the ex valve but unsure ■■?any help appreciated .
Norb may be able to advise, iirc he’s a Renault technician.
philgor:
Norb may be able to advise, iirc he’s a Renault technician.
to be fair i think all the volvo techs are too busy changing cracked inlet manifolds + starter motors,leaking piston cooling valves lol lol wtf,adblue /nox sensors,shackle bushes ,brake wear sensors,eng wiring harnesses,diffs,i shifts,air con + p/s pipes etc ect… to do periodic maintenance…
I’ve had the starter issues and had to change them on both of mine, piston cooling valves changed on one, a new turbo and AHI module (whatever that is, all I know is it’s expensive) on the other. A failed timing gear gasket that needed 60hrs labour to change and the divs never bolted the hanger bearing back on so the prop was whipping around like a, well like an unsecured prop really!
I had a valve adjustment done at 500,000kms on one and since then it’s been back to the workshop every week as they try to get the engine brake to do more than just make a noise.
Buy a new lorry they said, it will give you less problems they said…
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newmercman:
I’ve had the starter issues and had to change them on both of mine, piston cooling valves changed on one, a new turbo and AHI module (whatever that is, all I know is it’s expensive) on the other. A failed timing gear gasket that needed 60hrs labour to change and the divs never bolted the hanger bearing back on so the prop was whipping around like a, well like an unsecured prop really!I had a valve adjustment done at 500,000kms on one and since then it’s been back to the workshop every week as they try to get the engine brake to do more than just make a noise.
Buy a new lorry they said, it will give you less problems they said…
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What year are they?
2014 mate, they’re the USA built D13s, they have the full alphabet soup EGR, DPF and SCR on them.
To be fair they’ve been good to me so far, apart from the big job on the timing gear I’ve not lost a day’s work because of any of it, the starter problem cost me an absolute fortune on one of them as I had to get it towed in and judging by the hourly rate they charged, I think they use solid gold snap on tools!
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Not sure what you mean, build in the USA or for the USA? Thought all the ones over here were built in Sweden or Belgium? My 2015 D13 500, other than a couple of adblue pumps hasn’t had any problems.
I’m not 100% sure about the V4, but I know from 2011 Volvo don’t recommend a top end set every 2 years for the D13 like the older D12 needed.
60 hours to strip the timing gear? Could have rebuilt the engine in that time.
coiler:
60 hours to strip the timing gear? Could have rebuilt the engine in that time.
That would depend on numerous possible issues. 
Over head cam/CIH motors can be the devil’s work in that regard.Especially if they’re driven at the rear of the engine not the front.In which case even just what sounds like a timing cover gasket job could be nightmare.
Bearing in mind that I’m guessing that the problem might be the inner timing cover plate seal shown here at 0.45-0.51 on the similar Mack MP7 design. 
youtube.com/watch?v=07l17NtOjPM
So quite possible that it could take as long to sort out the timing side of a D13 as it would to re build an N14 for example.Bearing in mind that the main important tools needed to even remove the camshaft,let alone just fix the timing cover gasket,of an N14,are a hammer and a screwdriver. 
coiler:
Not sure what you mean, build in the USA or for the USA? Thought all the ones over here were built in Sweden or Belgium? My 2015 D13 500, other than a couple of adblue pumps hasn’t had any problems.
I’m not 100% sure about the V4, but I know from 2011 Volvo don’t recommend a top end set every 2 years for the D13 like the older D12 needed.
60 hours to strip the timing gear? Could have rebuilt the engine in that time.
Built in the USA for the North American market.
That’s one of them, there’s quite a lot of work involved to get to the back of the engine, it’s much easier to work on the back of the engine on a cabover.
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newmercman:
That’s one of them, there’s quite a lot of work involved to get to the back of the engine, it’s much easier to work on the back of the engine on a cabover.
Trust me if that inner timing cover plate seal needs to be fixed it won’t make much difference whether it’s a cab over or a conventional.It looks like a nightmare job.IE the transmission including the clutch looks like it’s all got to go then the whole outer timing cover bell housing assembly,then most of the cam drive gear train,just to get to the plate. Whoever designed that rear cam drive lash up should be made to fix every one of them that leaks let alone any other work required on/around the cam drive train.OHC/CIH is bad enough but that’s just taking the pish.
There is a lot of messing about to be done before they can start on the mechanical stuff, the bonnet has to come off, the bit of the doghouse under the dashboard, all the inlet trunking and air filter housing and probably a lot more, I mentioned those parts as I had to retighten every single screw, nut, clamp etc on those parts. As well as the hanger bearing not being bolted to the crossmember properly, which I spotted when investigating a sudden vibration.
Needless to say I haven’t been back to them (the dealer I bought the trucks from) since and my trucks will never see the inside of their workshop again.
Mine was covered by warranty which was a result as there’s almost 7 grand labour there.
Although there is no way I would spend 7 grand to fix an oil leak unless it was actually pouring out, I’d fill the sump with axle grease before I spent that kind of money!
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newmercman:
There is a lot of messing about to be done before they can start on the mechanical stuff, the bonnet has to come off, the bit of the doghouse under the dashboard, all the inlet trunking and air filter housing and probably a lot more, I mentioned those parts as I had to retighten every single screw, nut, clamp etc on those parts. As well as the hanger bearing not being bolted to the crossmember properly, which I spotted when investigating a sudden vibration.Needless to say I haven’t been back to them (the dealer I bought the trucks from) since and my trucks will never see the inside of their workshop again.
Mine was covered by warranty which was a result as there’s almost 7 grand labour there.
Although there is no way I would spend 7 grand to fix an oil leak unless it was actually pouring out, I’d fill the sump with axle grease before I spent that kind of money!
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To be fair I thought I might just give an idea of the timing cover removal process on the Jag.Another zb OHC design when it would probably have been more powerful as a pushrod motor with just one camshaft instead of two.
Remove-
Engine and gearbox.
Cylinder heads.
The sandwich plate between the block and sump
Water pump
Alternator
Power steering pump
and mountings regards above
Then you can remove the timing cover.
If only I wanted to spend the £30,000 needed to replace it with a pushrod Chevy based Falconer aircraft engine.On that note ■■■■■■■ really need to find a way of getting the N14 back into modern trucks. 
You’re off your nut mate, but you know that don’t you [emoji3] [emoji3] [emoji3]
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newmercman:
You’re off your nut mate, but you know that don’t you [emoji3] [emoji3] [emoji3]
Admittedly I might have way understated the price of that motor .
But seriously the idea of going back to the N14 type design has to be a no brainer for ■■■■■■■ if only they could somehow get the thing past all the EPA bs which I’d guess wouldn’t be impossible.
They’ve changed the ISX quite a lot from its original design, I’m not too sure what they’ve done as I’m not interested in an ISX whatsoever, far too complicated and it’s 50/50 whether you’ll get a good one or a bad one, there doesn’t appear to be any middle ground. They’re prone to exploding fuel pumps and they can wipe cam lobes off for fun, the EGR systems often fail, mainly the EGR cooler which results in new pistons and liners and the VG turbos are made of cheese and regularly fail. Quite the contrast to the N14, which is seemingly unbreakable. It’s the engine I’d choose if I ever built a glider.
On the subject of rear timing gear, that is the foundation for the next generation engines, turbocompounding will be resurrected and there will be some Carlos Fandango stuff putting the recovered energy directly into the crankshaft at the same time as the power stroke to reduce the losses of the hydraulic drives used previously.
You can only imagine how much aggro it will be to work on those when they inevitably go wrong.
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newmercman:
I’ve had the starter issues and had to change them on both of mine, piston cooling valves changed on one, a new turbo and AHI module (whatever that is, all I know is it’s expensive) on the other. A failed timing gear gasket that needed 60hrs labour to change and the divs never bolted the hanger bearing back on so the prop was whipping around like a, well like an unsecured prop really!I had a valve adjustment done at 500,000kms on one and since then it’s been back to the workshop every week as they try to get the engine brake to do more than just make a noise.
Buy a new lorry they said, it will give you less problems they said…
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yes i forgot about the rear timing gaskets or lack of it and at the front loads of noisy belt tensioners with plastic internals !!!
coiler:
Not sure what you mean, build in the USA or for the USA? Thought all the ones over here were built in Sweden or Belgium? My 2015 D13 500, other than a couple of adblue pumps hasn’t had any problems.
I’m not 100% sure about the V4, but I know from 2011 Volvo don’t recommend a top end set every 2 years for the D13 like the older D12 needed.
60 hours to strip the timing gear? Could have rebuilt the engine in that time.
i always lift the lid of them before the 2yr warranty is out after finding a rear lobe badly worn on an FH12 yrs ago, especially now as a day over 2yrs and u will struggle to get any claim met.Volvo recently cut the oil drain period to 60000km on the euro6 .
newmercman:
coiler:
Not sure what you mean, build in the USA or for the USA? Thought all the ones over here were built in Sweden or Belgium? My 2015 D13 500, other than a couple of adblue pumps hasn’t had any problems.
I’m not 100% sure about the V4, but I know from 2011 Volvo don’t recommend a top end set every 2 years for the D13 like the older D12 needed.
60 hours to strip the timing gear? Could have rebuilt the engine in that time.Built in the USA for the North American market.
That’s one of them, there’s quite a lot of work involved to get to the back of the engine, it’s much easier to work on the back of the engine on a cabover.
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Sorry, didn’t realise you were based in the US
TOECUTTER:
coiler:
Not sure what you mean, build in the USA or for the USA? Thought all the ones over here were built in Sweden or Belgium? My 2015 D13 500, other than a couple of adblue pumps hasn’t had any problems.
I’m not 100% sure about the V4, but I know from 2011 Volvo don’t recommend a top end set every 2 years for the D13 like the older D12 needed.
60 hours to strip the timing gear? Could have rebuilt the engine in that time.i always lift the lid of them before the 2yr warranty is out after finding a rear lobe badly worn on an FH12 yrs ago, especially now as a day over 2yrs and u will struggle to get any claim met.Volvo recently cut the oil drain period to 60000km on the euro6 .
I agree with the warranty, there seems to be no leeway any more, which vehicles have they cut the drain period on as mine are still on 120k?
I’ve got 5yrs/800,000kms extended warranty on mine, so I’m covered for another couple of years at present mileage rates.
Mine are EPA2010 compliant, so EGR with a VGT, DPF and SCR, although it runs on DEF (Diesel Exhaust Fluid) which is Adblue by another name, so close to Euro6 specs.
Volvo have just extended oil drain up to 72,000kms, but you must use 10W30 oil and get over 6mpg to be able to do that, I can do that in summer, but in winter I’ve got no chance, so I drop down to 50,000km drains. They raised the DPF clean from 450,000 to 600,000kms at the same time, so that’s encouraging as it means they’re not producing a lot of soot which should mean nice tight cylinder kits for a lot of miles. I think the recommendation is to do the first valve reset at 200,000 and then at 500,000kms, I’ve got a sheet printed out of all the various things needed for scheduled maintenance, but it’s in the truck and I’m at home.
I’ve got a mate that’s just gone in for a DPF clean at 600,000kms and the filters were still like new, so they never bothered, as I said, that’s very encouraging for the lifespan of the oily bits.
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