If it gets too bad or too unsafe use your snow curtains.
You won’t get thanked for being a hero
Dipper_Dave:
Forward plan to the max, tickle her like a virgins ■■■■ and all will be fine.
Forget ABS as I don’t think it will activate in time if at all, use cadence braking if the poop hits the fan, may just give you a few feet extra stopping distance.If in doubt don’t go out or just get stuck and go back to bed.
High gear low revs, traction is king if you lose it don’t fight for it back gently try and get grip again avoid stopping if possible. Course if your almost at the top of a hill thrash the bugger.
Youl get a feel for the conditions and to do something right first it may be necessary to do it wrong.
Gun it up steep inclines balancing traction with acceleration and hope for the best.
It’s great fun… [emoji6]
ABS is basically cadence braking in very quick rapid succession quicker than a human being could ever manage.
As has been said slow it down, don’t use power around corners and turns, forward plan more than you ever have. Increase your stopping distances and avoid using brakes or retarder wherever possible, allow the vehicle momentum to slow it down gradually. Try and avoid hills unless you have no choice highest gear possible and light acceleration. If you have to go uphill then make sure it is clear and get going and don’t stop because you won’t get going again. Assess the situation and be sure you can make it to where you need to go, if not don’t go there.
Thats my plan of attack tonight the same as if i was in my car just more aware of speed etc.
Unfortunately,despite all the best advice on how to drive your truck in the snow,you will not be alone on the roads.Many of the clowns who drive around cluelessly,particularly those with 4x4s,will continue to drive cluelessly in severe conditions and any forward planning you attempt to do to make progress easier will be screwed up.You will have to do as always and just plod on.
Do NOT use cruise control , failing that wait 24 hrs and all the snow will be gone . Drive safe
And keep an eye on your engine temp gauge. Remember coming up the A49 from Hereford a few years ago in heavy snow. Despite being well below zero, the truck a Scania R500 was starting to overheat due to the front grille being completely covered in compacted snow and ice. Kept having to stop to brush it all off. Colleague who was travelling up behind in same type of unit was having the same issue.
mds141:
And keep an eye on your engine temp gauge. Remember coming up the A49 from Hereford a few years ago in heavy snow. Despite being well below zero, the truck a Scania R500 was starting to overheat due to the front grille being completely covered in compacted snow and ice. Kept having to stop to brush it all off.
and other warnings, I remember many years ago, driving in heavy snow and the air filter light come on and the truck was losing power. The snow had clogged up the engine air intake.
Its the same as driving the car, the seat of your pants will guide you and instinct, always works for me
Can someone please post a 10-13 on here in the morning for me my driver needs to be in towcester for 8 am ish Monday ,he should be getting on the m1 about 6 ish at j26,thanks .
blue estate:
Depending on level of snow DON’T!as it’s not coming in till morning the nigh is going to be cold and ground frozen and icy already
But its up to you
I wont as I don’t have the Artic experience to do it
Artic experience what the hell youd think it was comparable to ice road truckers for gods sake
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flat to the mat:
Do NOT use cruise control , failing that wait 24 hrs and all the snow will be gone . Drive safe
That is a very useful piece of advice particularly as many large companies now “encourage” drivers to use it as much as possible for better fuel economy! Now is not the time to use it!
TiredAndEmotional:
flat to the mat:
Do NOT use cruise control , failing that wait 24 hrs and all the snow will be gone . Drive safeThat is a very useful piece of advice particularly as many large companies now “encourage” drivers to use it as much as possible for better fuel economy! Now is not the time to use it!
And you need to say that to people who are drivers, i rest my case
Just lay back and enojy the ride, it’s so nice and smoooth on the snow 
Ooops, abit over the limiter, but hey it’s uphill ahead 
and if you want to use the retarder, just do some weight transfer from the tag or it will just slip, I usually am at around 13-14t on the driveaxel going downhill in the winter with the reatarder.
Just love the snow and winter
Edit: If you live on the great island you proably shouldn’t take this post seriously 
nightline:
TiredAndEmotional:
flat to the mat:
Do NOT use cruise control , failing that wait 24 hrs and all the snow will be gone . Drive safeThat is a very useful piece of advice particularly as many large companies now “encourage” drivers to use it as much as possible for better fuel economy! Now is not the time to use it!
And you need to say that to people who are drivers, i rest my case
Just offering advice , same as "do your braking in a straight line ". You are obviously a driving god but some might find it useful . Your top tip for newbies is what ? 
Shandy123:
What is it about exhaust brakes that causes an issue?
They only slow the drive axle wheels (rear wheels) , so jack knife is more likely. Better to use foot brake and brake gently on all wheels and stay in straight line.
Anticipation is what’s needed.
I used to have a full set of snow tyres but come the spring they all melted.
Advice, simple, don’t expect to carry on as normal, it will be gridlock out there, nobody will be going anywhere fast and there’s going to be no prizes if you do. Half the country will stay indoors, only venturing out to clear the shelves of milk and bread, so there’s a good chance there will be nobody around to load or unload you anyway, so what’s the point of trying to be a hero.
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Chains on the drive axle will give traction, but the steering is still like a ladle in a bowl of custard.
PRT RaCeR:
muckles:
PRT RaCeR:
Heisenberrg:
Here’s the thing I’ve been driving cars for 40 years and many times in the snow, somehow I have always missed on having to drive a truck in the snow…I work in the south mostly …where it looks as if there’s going to be quite a bit of snow at 6 o’clock tomorrow.Anyone got some sensible tips about driving a truck on snow covered B roads and rural lanes ■■
, personally I would avoid exhaust / retarder brake as much as you can , specially going around corner , make sure you dis activated the button in dash that do the Auto option when you press brake pedal , when slowing down if you feel that tractor unit want to jackknife , 2 options , if you have space ahead smash throttle to correct effect , if you really have to stop , avoid continuous braking , just use an “intermittent “ brake style , this in a way slightly help trailer brake more than unit , don’t do or let an Auto box do arch gear down drops too ,all in one , acceleration you fine , it’s when “braking” that things can go wrong , always remember trailer need to brake even or more than unit , never the other way around ! In some extreme cases ABS trailer suzie should be disconnected to help the intermittent braking going downhills or to stop in the shortest distance possible . Hope this helps [emoji846]
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You appear to have a lot of ideas about driving in snow and ice, I’m assuming you must be one of those Scandinavian types who has driven Artics in these conditions every year for decade.
Please give us more of your experience.
I have a fair ammount of experience yes mate , always happy to help ppl out every time I can , unfortunately most times I’m miss understood and called all sort of things by most… hence most times I just keep quiet and don’t get involved ! As your reply seems friendly I will leave you a hint to prove I’m not just talking BS , if you never done it before or never had to , wait for a nice dry day in a quiet road , disconnect ABS Suzie, pretend you are on a stop and go traffic and you will see how jerking your braking will be (trailer speed sensors can’t communicate) so trailer will “smash” brake every time you make a fair pressure on pedal , if you want to go even further , pick up some speed , say from 40mph , apply brake pedal with good constant pressure, trailer wheels will lock after 2 to 3 seconds “air brake lag” all in one means trailer will want to brake more than tractor unit all times , so reduce a lot jackknife effect on poor weather conditions, BUT you need to keep intermittent braking thru your brake pedal at all times with foot so trailer wheels don’t lock or trailer will skid anywhere depending on road camber . Once again hope this helps. Remember a wise person always been a good listener in the past and took his own conclusions. Don’t let yourself down by some uneducated fellow colleagues with Ego and no skill…
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well said PRT raCer
Icee:
Just lay back and enojy the ride, it’s so nice and smoooth on the snow
Ooops, abit over the limiter, but hey it’s uphill aheadJust love the snow and winter
Edit: If you live on the great island you proably shouldn’t take this post seriously
I get the impression you aint on the usual lorry tyres that we’re stuck with, that wheelspin in 11th on a damp road 
note Icee is in Manual mode
Can you transfer weight off the mid/tag axle at speed on your MAN Icee? on mine its below 30k’s or it simply won’t happen, the only mid lift i’ve driven that the driver had full control of the mid lifter at any speed was a square Axor, which despite all the slagging those working motors come in for here was a bloody good lorry that would go anywhere in the snow and its manual gearbox coupled to an engine that would pug right down to 800rpm and still pull strongly made it the perfect arduous conditions motor.
Most important thing i’ve learned over the years for snow driving is to have learned intimately how your lorry behaves and how exactly to drive it with all the electronic ■■■■■■■■ turned off, driving the auto gearbox in manual mode and knowing at what speed you have access to the tag air dump valve…this last point is very important as it can make all the difference to climbing a hill you managed to get a run at.
No good trying to learn all that stuff now mind, its something you practice when conditions are right…and this is where the agency lads who probably drive a different lorry every day are at a disadvantage.
By the way artic lads, we had a chat some months ago about weight transferring onto the drive axle, some may recall, i did in fact work out how much weight could be transferred onto the drive axle and the weight on my 6 axle motor increased from about 9.5 ton to something like around an extra 4/5 tons imposed, maybe more depending on your vehicle design.
So to recap (as i recall it was Captain Caveman who gave us the heads up on this so all credit where its due)…if you find yourselves completely stuck, try dropping the trailer air suspension fully, then on tractor lift or if it doesn’t fully lift then transfer the air from the tag/mid lift to the drive axle via the little umbrella over the axle button (bad luck if you have a modern Merc you haven’t got one, well done Merc ), and finally raise the tractor unit suspension fully…you will now have increased the weight on the drive axle by more than you might imagine, obviously once you are out of the mire stop when safe where you can restart normally and re-inflate the trailer because not only will the rear trailer axle now be up to about 15 tons but it doesn’t do the airbags any good to be driven flat.