As those who read my blog will know, I have and hours drivng assesment coming up on Wednesday. I wanted to ask you all something. I assume the Atego (17 tonner version) I will be driving will have a 4 over 4, apposed to a slap-over box. Now, the question is not how to use the box, but purly what gears to sellect when pulling off. It will be an empty truck, and I know there is alot of factors when it comes to gears, but in an ideal world (dry, flat road with no traffic), whats the best way to get upto speed? 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8 or something like 2-4-7-8 etc.
I only ask because if I can get the basic idea into my head then it is one thing less to think obout on Wednesday.
Probably start in 2nd and go up accordingly, if you can block change ie 2-4-6-8 or whatever when appropriate the examiners like that as it shows you have got confidence with the vehicle and know it’s capability.
But at the end of the day, you are just going for an assessment, your instructor will feed you the info as and when you need it. Otherwise you’ll fill your head with stuff that’ll get in the way.
3rd’ll usually do for setting off on flat/downhill once you’ve started moving my instructor told me not to skip gears on the way up - but it’s ok on the way down.
first or second on a hill start if it’s steep. Don’t panick about gears, it’s easy. Just make sure you’re in low range on hill starts (123&4) I tried 5th on my test and thought it’d cost me dearly but I was lucky.
depent the road but i usely did 3-5-6-7-8 only used 4th on round abouts and 3rd gets u movin on a hill i did my test in sheffield so i know i was driving a scania 94d tho
Cheers guys. That helps me no end. At least I will go to my assesment with some basic understanding now, and not go 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8 unless I really need too.
Another quick question. With the handbrake, it it progressive (like on a car, i.e the more you have it on the more the brakes are on), or is it just either on or off? I was told on hill starts in a car to find the bite with the clutch and slowly release the handbrake, however, if the handbrake on a truck is either on or off (no progression) how is this possible?
I know my instructor will teach me all this but I feel asking will give me a head start so I can concentrate on learning other stuff (like vehicle size ), and help others who are just starting out.
NewBlood:
Cheers guys. That helps me no end. At least I will go to my assesment with some basic understanding now, and not go 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8 unless I really need too.
Another quick question. With the handbrake, it it progressive (like on a car, i.e the more you have it on the more the brakes are on), or is it just either on or off? I was told on hill starts in a car to find the bite with the clutch and slowly release the handbrake, however, if the handbrake on a truck is either on or off (no progression) how is this possible?
I know my instructor will teach me all this but I feel asking will give me a head start so I can concentrate on learning other stuff (like vehicle size ), and help others who are just starting out.
Cheers again, and sorry about all the questions.
NB
Yes, its either on or off
you can still feel the truck pulling slightly with the handbrake on, when your wanting to do a hill start
1st gear to pull away ALWAYS, you won’t abuse the clutch then, get it rolling in 1st then skip to 3rd then into 5th, 6th etc. It will pull away in higher gears but ALL lorries are designed to pull away in 1st gear loaded.
You can all disagree all you want but I used to be a road tester for TRUCK magazine & was told by EVERY manufacturer that this is the correct procedure & they are the ones who should know
I always used to pull away in whatever gear the lorry could take, in a 13spd Fuller for example you could get crawler in high range & it used to fly off the line but it does damage the clutch, I now do it properly & it makes no difference in time, with the current electronically controlled fuel pumps you just release the clutch at tick over, get rolling & then go up the box normally.
click the link in my sig and then click the gears links.
LIttle tip for when you KNOW that it will be a 3rd start and then to 5th.
Gear in neutral, button down, into 3rd then flick button (or switch) UP - this does NOT change it to high range - that will only happen when you put the gearstick into neutral.
You set off in third but with the switch (or button) up - then without touching the button/switch - REMEMBER YOU HAVE DONE IT - you can out it straight into 5th and the transition will be quicker and smoother than doing button/switch, neutral, gear.
Cheers for that ROG. Very good idea that. Like I say, I know its only an assessment and not a test, but I feel going in with some knolage will mean I get more time driving in the 1.5hr than explaining bits to me as I will alread have a basic grasp. Looking forward to my first stall though
Maybe i’m missing something about the gear to set off in. I know that manufacturers recommend always setting off in first gear - indeed there is often a sticker in the cab to that effect. However in an i-shift gearbox ( I think thats what it was) I drove yesterday, it always chose 3rd gear to set off in and isn’t that a ‘normal’ gearbox/clutch arrangement, but done by the vehicle and not the driver?
), and help others who are just starting out.
