Up until now I’ve used the torque wrench of the bloke who’s yard I park in but I’m trying to build my own set of tools up as time goes on. Just wondering what setting the torque wrench would need to be set at to do the nuts on my truck? I’m looking in eBay as I type so id like to make sure the ones I’m looking at are suitable before I commit to buy!
Cheers
Matt
should be at least 3/4 drive and 700nm / 500lb ft
truck wheel settings can be from 400nm to 650nm
You really want to go over what you might need 900 or even 1000 nm. Some trailer axles have high wheel nut torques that. Either 3/4" or 1" doesn’t matter as you can use an adapter.
Assume you are taking the wheels off as I’m not a fan of constantly checking wheel nuts with a norbar.
Own Account Driver:
Assume you are taking the wheels off as I’m not a fan of constantly checking wheel nuts with a norbar.
I’d use it when the wheels have been off and also check them every other week usually. Why are you not keen on regular checks with a Norbar? Surely they are designed for that purpose?
Matt
On the Volvo the wheel nuts are 680nm and hub nuts are 1000nm if you do your own brake discs.
DAF XF /CF 32mm socket and torqued to 700 NM
Misleadlingly I think XFMatt’s got an MAN 575nm I think on 32mm nuts, if in doubt ring a MAN dealer. I would still buy a 1000nm norbar though as much more versatile.
Although thinking about it all my wheels are alloys. Are steels the same setting?
i still work on the method of 2 cracks means their tight
What truck are you tightening the wheel nuts on?
Own Account Driver:
Misleadlingly I think XFMatt’s got an MAN 575nm I think on 32mm nuts, if in doubt ring a MAN dealer. I would still buy a 1000nm norbar though as much more versatile.
Yeah sorry I have got an MAN! Username was chosen when I was an employed driver in an XF! Tried changing it but don’t think it’s possible?!?
Own Account Driver:
Misleadlingly I think XFMatt’s got an MAN 575nm I think on 32mm nuts, if in doubt ring a MAN dealer. I would still buy a 1000nm norbar though as much more versatile.
I went to the factory today as i was weighing just next to it, thought id enquire of a factory outlet 
, was all closed for lunch. Bugger
You need a Norbar 5R 300-1000Nm breakback torque wrench, like virtually every tyre fitter uses. They are accurate and robust.
Speak to your MAN dealer or look in the vehicle handbook if there is one for the torque settings. Alloys are generally slightly lower than steel wheels. Make sure your nuts are specifically for alloys if they have been retro fitted.
I don’t personally believe in checking the tightness of wheel nuts every x weeks with a torque wrench, wheel nuts can be tight on a stud but not have the required clamping force, and it’s an even clamping force around the wheel that stops it coming off.
My method of fitting a wheel:
Make sure both hub/drum and wheel faces are generally clean and free of corrosion.
Make sure stud and nut threads are not damaged. The nut should run down the studs thread by hand. If it doesn’t clean the threads or replace the nut/stud if damaged.
Lubricate the threads on the stud and nut with a little engine oil (not grease or WD40)
Lubricate the gap between the washer and the nut with a little engine oil so it freely rotates.
Run the nut up the thread with an airgun if you wish, but stop before it gets to the recommended torque figure.
Using a calibrated torque wrench, tighten the nut that last bit until the torque wrench cracks.
Do this for all the nuts, wait half an hour, then go around and check them all again.
That’s it.
Fit little bits of coloured plastic over the nuts if it makes you feel better.
I’ve never had a problem with loose wheels/loose nuts following the above, and I’ve changed a lot of wheels.
Operators have problems when:
Threads are not lubricated. You are tightening the nut against friction so although the nut is tight on the stud the clamping force between wheel and hub is too low.
A big airgun is used, overtightening the wheel nut. The “tyre fitter” then goes around and checks each nut with the torque wrench which just proves the nut is at or above a certain tightness. Studs are stretched, then shear, wheel falls off.
“fitter” tightens nuts with airgun but forgets the torque wrench, so some nuts are too tight, some are too loose. Wheel falls off.
Generally I won’t trust a tyre fitter unless I’m stood over the top of him watching.
Fully agree with you on that one Coiler, but don’t forget the last bit, always de-adjust the Torque wrench back to zero when your finished.
No point weakening the spring in the wrench 