I’ve been driving 14 years but had my first timber pack load today [emoji33]
I strapped it down quite good but it still moved a little [emoji45]
Any tips as I will be doing more loads like this
P/s truck is a 18t curtain sider
I’d put a cross at the back using ratchet straps also consider using a few more ratchet straps
yeah, don’t drive it loaded like you would when its empty. 
the good old fashioned dolly knot always kept mine in place, and that was for chipboard…then along came the ratchet straps which were to replace ropes, so i guess is to use more of those, and not internal straps . I have said before that the H & S brigade have a lot to answer for, they should get off their arses, and visit companies to tell them their packaging is crap, and to use metal packaging prior to shipping the goods, unfortunately, its left to the drivers to make sure nothing moves, if it dont look right, dont take it, in my opinion drivers should start fighting back.
Is it double stacked? Is it the top layer your finding moving? I normally find that wood has a sheen to it that allows it to move. I always drive as if their was a glass of water on the dash and don’t want to spill it. I don’t have an issue as that’s how I always drive whether loaded or not, but the guys that drive as if their out in their weekend ■■■■■ extension often have probs.
Try strapping bottom layer and top layer if still dubious.
Ratchet straps only as internal straps aren’t worth w4nk.
Take your time.
If its two stacks high try and have it so that the bottom packs are more towards the outside of the wagon than the top ones are and try to get the top ones pushed in so they’re touching each other. When using skids (bearers usually a length of 3x3 or 4x4 timber), if the packs don’t come with their own already banded to the pack, make sure for those on top of the bottom packs that they’re not sloping down towards the outside of the wagon if the top of the packs are uneven. It may even require you to get a pack removed and swap it over with one of the others.
Use three skids on each pack, one in the middle, one at each end a couple of feet in. That’ll prevent the pack “bouncing” as you drive down the road and loosening the ratchets.
You need to use three ratchet straps and put them over the packs in line with the skids.
I pick up quite a bit of packs from Triesse, and found early on they move for fun. Either they have laminates or the fine dust off mdf.
It’s a case of extra straps and corner pieces and get as tight as you can without damage. You need to get straps as near vertical as you can or they slip. I usually put one across middle and then two cross ways on stacks that are approx 10ft long. Drive carefully and they stay.
If double stacked, don’t be lazy and strap bottom lot with a couple of straps as well as over double stack.
Awful stuff to carry but easy does it and you’ll be fine if you get the stuff again
If its sawn timber alternate the side the ratchets are so first one is on nearside, second O/S, third N/S etc. Stop about 30mins into ur run and tighten them up then again 30mins later, the timber packs will move about due to how they are bundled and stacked, after the 3rd time u have tightened the straps they usually stay tight til u get to ur drop.
Use as many straps as u are happy with, I usually use 2 on each pack upto 2.4metres long, 3 on packs around 3.6m long and 4 on packs around 4.8m.
bubsy06:
If its sawn timber alternate the side the ratchets are so first one is on nearside, second O/S, third N/S etc. Stop about 30mins into ur run and tighten them up then again 30mins later, the timber packs will move about due to how they are bundled and stacked, after the 3rd time u have tightened the straps they usually stay tight til u get to ur drop.
Use as many straps as u are happy with, I usually use 2 on each pack upto 2.4metres long, 3 on packs around 3.6m long and 4 on packs around 4.8m.
^^^^^ i do the same
truckyboy:
the good old fashioned dolly knot always kept mine in place, and that was for chipboard…then along came the ratchet straps which were to replace ropes, so i guess is to use more of those, and not internal straps . I have said before that the H & S brigade have a lot to answer for, they should get off their arses, and visit companies to tell them their packaging is crap, and to use metal packaging prior to shipping the goods, unfortunately, its left to the drivers to make sure nothing moves, if it dont look right, dont take it, in my opinion drivers should start fighting back.
I would of said use rope but nowadays the elf n safety brigade say rope hooks aren’t to be used for load restraint as they can’t be given a safe working rating !!!
I’ve never lost a load using ropes I’d always do a double hitch when loading stacks of timber and it didn’t do any harm to re check the ropes when you pulled up for a break especially if it’s been raining and the ropes start to dry out after its stopped
Straps - straps and straps.
Plenty of decent width timber bearers equally sized, placed under timber packs at equal regular spaced intervals, leaving the forkies sufficient room to get their blades in (- so the packs cant “bounce in the middle” and loosen the straps.
Make sure the loaders dont leave a gap between packs if loading from both sides (n/s - o/s). keep them butted up close.
Treat it as a live load, gently and carefully, no harsh braking and no Fittipaldi cornering.
Stop and check straps tightness at intervals during the journey.
My last job was with Canute, and I did a lot of work out of International timber in Trafford Park. As others have said, bloody stuff moves for fun. Loads of straps, and tighten at regular intervals. Double stacked packs of timber are particularly vulnerable.
Nice and smooth around corners, or you will end up with a bulge in your curtain bigger than the one in my pants when I see Vanessa Feltz in wellies.
Thanx lads 
as I thought I needed more straps
gazsa401:
truckyboy:
the good old fashioned dolly knot always kept mine in place, and that was for chipboard…then along came the ratchet straps which were to replace ropes, so i guess is to use more of those, and not internal straps . I have said before that the H & S brigade have a lot to answer for, they should get off their arses, and visit companies to tell them their packaging is crap, and to use metal packaging prior to shipping the goods, unfortunately, its left to the drivers to make sure nothing moves, if it dont look right, dont take it, in my opinion drivers should start fighting back.I would of said use rope but nowadays the elf n safety brigade say rope hooks aren’t to be used for load restraint as they can’t be given a safe working rating !!!
I’ve never lost a load using ropes I’d always do a double hitch when loading stacks of timber and it didn’t do any harm to re check the ropes when you pulled up for a break especially if it’s been raining and the ropes start to dry out after its stopped
sawmills nowadays would’nt load you if you were roping the load on
Put “no nails” between each layer of timber
Chain it down 
Used to haul a lot of timber down to the US straps every 4ft or so job done. Frequent stops to check still nice n tight.
Suedehead:
Chain it down
only used chains when it was stripped poles going too boston (lincs) to be made into telegraph poles
Haul at least two loads a week of timber. You don’t need a stupid amount of straps, just enough spaced out evenly.
Straps do loose tension till the load settles so just stop after a couple of miles and re-tighten and it will be fine.
Most of us use bars to over tighten the ratchets. Frowned upon I know but it does help.
Most loads will move a little even when tied down, the question is how much did the load move.