steel need help

hey chaps and chapesse’s

my gaffer phoned me this afternoon to say from tuesday next week he’s taking me off the recycling contract and putting me on steel haulage as he reckons I’m wasted on the recycling work :slight_smile: .I’ll be shifting plates and tubes all over the UK

so after a bit of help has anyone got any tips for strapping or chaining??
and sheeting?

Well only done a little bit of metal myself, but I was told to ensure that chains are in good condition as with the tensioners, obviously lol.
I NEVER use straps on steel as they are prone to wear and tear, as for roping and sheeting its easier to get someone to show you rather than try to explain it.
Its not fun sheeting in the wind rain and in the dark so patience is essential, lol. Good Luck, sorry I cant explain the rope and sheeting for ya.

Andydisco:
hey chaps and chapesse’s

my gaffer phoned me this afternoon to say from tuesday next week he’s taking me off the recycling contract and putting me on steel haulage as he reckons I’m wasted on the recycling work :slight_smile: .I’ll be shifting plates and tubes all over the UK

so after a bit of help has anyone got any tips for strapping or chaining??
and sheeting?

mostly depends on what type of steel your shifting mate if you stick up what type or types i can be more specific :sunglasses:

It’s more than likely not going to be of any use but I’ve got a little bit on chain tensioners here on my toolbox blog.

It’s plant based but if you scroll to the bottom of the post there are some pictures of chain tensioners and how they work.

gonzothejaffa1:

Andydisco:
hey chaps and chapesse’s

my gaffer phoned me this afternoon to say from tuesday next week he’s taking me off the recycling contract and putting me on steel haulage as he reckons I’m wasted on the recycling work :slight_smile: .I’ll be shifting plates and tubes all over the UK

so after a bit of help has anyone got any tips for strapping or chaining??
and sheeting?

mostly depends on what type of steel your shifting mate if you stick up what type or types i can be more specific :sunglasses:

i think he has…

I’ll be shifting plates and tubes all over the UK

Andydisco:
hey chaps and chapesse’s

my gaffer phoned me this afternoon to say from tuesday next week he’s taking me off the recycling contract and putting me on steel haulage as he reckons I’m wasted on the recycling work :slight_smile: .I’ll be shifting plates and tubes all over the UK

so after a bit of help has anyone got any tips for strapping or chaining??
and sheeting?

yes - 16 years of it 1988 to 2004 angles channels, strips, plates, 8’ x 4’ / 10’ x 5’ / 6’ x3’ razor blades, coils, slit coils, bins of bits…
if you are still on the site then reply

Here is a link to the DoT’s CODE OF PRACTICE on the Safety of Loads on Vehicles.
Its a pretty hefty .pfd file.

Strapping steel is OK, but you need extremely good protection for your straps on the corners.
The best way to secure steel plate is with chains, although you have to use your head. Chains on light sheet is likely to dent or do other damage.
Steel on steel isn’t good.
Steel on wood is.

The basic rules of thumb, for securing steel (or any other load) are - It shouldn’t be able to move forwards at all.
It should be secured equivalent to 50% of the weight, against moving sideways.
It should be secured equivalent to 25% of the weight, against moving rearwards.

Don’t hook your chains or straps on the edge of your trailer bed. That steel is too light, it’s likely to bend under severe braking, which could make a bad situation worse.
Hook them on the chassis of your trailer.
Chains are usually rated for 5t, on a single straight pull.
4 of these are easily enough to secure a full load.
The reason is, your chains are secured at both ends, so in effect your load is secured by a doubled chain. 5t doubled = 10t.

Get your work mates to show you the ropes of chaining a load.
It;s always easier when you can see what’s being done, get them to explain anything you don’t feel you understand fully.
Get them to show you how to sheet a load too, and just as importantly, how to roll your sheets up properly. If that bit is done right, moving them and rolling them out over your next load is so much easier.

(I worked full time for 2 1/2 years for British Steel and for 3 years before that as an agency driver, part time.)

I can expand a little…

THE DRIVER
Get some thick gloves - the type you can hold a rose bush with and not feel the thorns.
Steel toe cap boots or shoes
Hard hat
Hardy trousers and top so all your skin is covered and protected against sharp edges.

DRIVING
No harsh braking, accelerating, cornering or steering.
No jerky gear changes.
Any of the above can unsettle the load even if the chains are tight :open_mouth:

THE LORRY & LOAD
MUST have a headboard - unless you want to chance being speared or sliced in half :open_mouth: :open_mouth: :open_mouth:
Chains only with RATCHET tensioners - not the lock-over type
NO STRAPS - there are useless for steel - might as well use shoelaces :exclamation: :exclamation:
Chains should be long enough to wrap around the whole lorry but watch out you don’t catch anything vital on the underside.
Where possible the load should be spread across the width of the lorry and not piled high.
If thin sheet steel, then it should be banded to a wooden pallet of the same size and the steel bands securing it to the pallet should be crossways and longways - without the length being banded the sheets can slip out of the middle.
Coils over 2.5 tonnes must (good practise guide) be in a coil well and chained over - they should be steel banded around the outside and through the middle to stop the ‘coning’ effect.
Sheeting the lorry (if that type of set up) keeps the steel from becoming wet/damp but any moisture that gets under them can make the steel sweat and then the moisture gets into the load and you get a refused delivery. This can also happen with curtain siders.

TYPES OF STEEL - simple guide
Black - usually rusty looking - bottom of the range
HR (Hot Rolled) bit like black but not rusty
CR (Cold Reduced) slightly better than above but looks shiney
ZINC - find it hard to describe this one :exclamation: :exclamation:
GALVANISED - very shiney - slips easily - goes ‘white rusty’ when damp/wet.
PICKLED & OILED - DANGER this stuff is your biggest nightmare - seen so many drivers lose this type of load - chains struggle to hold it - EXTREME CAUTION NEEDED

I’m getting writers cramp now so if transporting any different types than mentioned please let me know

cheers rog ,simon for the info

would of replied last night but had to wait till I got home as my laptop battery went flat

asked my gaffer tonight when i got back to the yard and its all stainless steel, and its mainly on pallets when its sheet or in bundles when its tube

I’m going out with one of the other drivers tommorrow to get a look at how they do the roping and sheeting

Andydisco:
cheers rog ,simon for the info

would of replied last night but had to wait till I got home as my laptop battery went flat

asked my gaffer tonight when i got back to the yard and its all stainless steel, and its mainly on pallets when its sheet or in bundles when its tube

I’m going out with one of the other drivers tommorrow to get a look at how they do the roping and sheeting

Stainless is different to what I have done - due to the way it gets easily marked and damaged the system of securing it is different. The principals are the same but the methods are not.

PS it is a steel that can be targetted by certain individuals - never stray far from your load :exclamation: :exclamation:

I know that Rog ,wouldnt want to loose a load thats probably worth more than the wagon