Split coupling

I have my class 1 test next week and I have to close couple on test as the trailer has a deep pin and you cant get between the unit & trailer, NOT looking forward to it :frowning:

Fallmonk:
Quick Question ,

When you hook up the air lines my airbrake pops off! so wot do i do?
if its on flat ground thats ok but when its a slope/hill ā– ā– ?

Mate, thatā€™s what the trailer park brake is for!

When I done my class one with big wheelers Cardiff I was trained to split couple, however since I have been working I have only ever had to split which taking out a fridge.

I prefer to not split couple after some of the stories I have seen.

Once forgot to apply parking brake when coupling up, will never do that again, no damage or injury but scared the ā– ā– ā– ā–  out me :frowning:

only ever seen split couping done by fat blokes :smiley:

ā– ā– ā– ā– ā– ā– 00:
scanny 77

i dont know what happened but if i hadnt given it a couple of pulls i would have lost my trailer somewhere

is it really possible to loose your trailer once out on the open road say after 30 minutes driving would your trailer just break freeā€¦i know its done in the yard through personal experience

Yes absolutely.

The jaws can lock and handle be in, dog-clip in but the pin is just sat on top rather than locked in.

Tug test is pretty useless best way is to get under trailer and look at jaws with a torch but I can never decide if this then doesnā€™t risk drivers getting crushed if unit park brake isnā€™t on which is easy to do when coupling up as the trailer stops the unit rolling.

C10HOO:
I have my class 1 test next week and I have to close couple on test as the trailer has a deep pin and you cant get between the unit & trailer, NOT looking forward to it :frowning:

That sounds like bad planning, there will be enough to think about without the split couple. As there is no correct proven way to do it, it will be safe in the view of the examiner only.

As I worked in Europe I became quite used to using wheel chocks and they were available on every trailer, so that is what I did in general.

When I started with culina,we had underslung airlines and electrics.which went from resend of unit to the bar between trailer legs. You definitely made sure park brake was on

Good solution from Don-bur. I have pleasure to use it.

hitch:
Split coupling is dangerous and should only be done
by highly trained skilled operatives

now as the companies dont wont skilled operatives or pay for training
were caught between the devil and deep blue sea

The only thing you need is common sense. There is nothing dangerous about it as long as you use your brain.

Wheel Nut:

C10HOO:
I have my class 1 test next week and I have to close couple on test as the trailer has a deep pin and you cant get between the unit & trailer, NOT looking forward to it :frowning:

That sounds like bad planning, there will be enough to think about without the split couple. As there is no correct proven way to do it, it will be safe in the view of the examiner only.

As I worked in Europe I became quite used to using wheel chocks and they were available on every trailer, so that is what I did in general.

If I remember correctly the procedure is,

Drop:
ENGINE OFF Out the cab, check where Iā€™m going to drop the trailer is firm and legal. then walk down the drivers side checking the trailer for damage and to the back and tell the examiner this is where I would remove the numberplate and then round to the park brake and put it on. further up the passenger side and wind the legs down to about an inch off the floor. Back up the passenger side and round the front to the Dog clip and pull the pin.
Back in the cab, forward about 6 foot and stop, ENGINE OFF, out the cab, up on the catwalk and pop and store away the suzies. Back down, back in the cab, pull forward until the trailer is off the fifth wheel and just the skids, hesitate and wait for the unit to self level. Park alongside the trailer and stop.

Catch: (Youā€™re told to hook up to the trailer assuming you have never seen it before)

Pull forward, line up and reverse up to the trailer about 3 foot away, ENGINE OFF and out, tell the examiner youā€™re going to check the suzies are compatible (not palm couplings) check the trailer hasnā€™t got any locks on the suzies and no kingpin lock, then check the fifth wheel height is correct and the fifth wheel is ready to receive.
Down the driver side again and check for damage (side rails, body etc, check the tyres for tread/damage, round the back and from top to bottom, marker lights, doors, door hinges, reflective plates, light clusters, under run bar and tell him this is where Iā€™d put the numberplate in, round to the park brake and CHECK ITS ON!! then the same along the passenger side.
Back in the cab, reverse under the trailer until it is on the fifth wheel but not coupled. ENGINE OFF, out the cab round the passenger side and reconnect the suzies and back in the cab. Reverse fully under the trailer until it connects, select 1st gear and two firm tugs to check its properly connected, ENGINE OFF and out to the pin, put the dog clip in and round to the legs, wind them up fully and slowly down to the park brake, bend down and knock it off but hesitate (incase wagon rolls) then ask the instructor to help you with a light check. job done.

If Iā€™ve missed anythingā€¦ Ive failedā€¦

Ive read a lot about split coupling on here, but what is it and how do you do it?

Itā€™s where you go to back under the trailer but then get out attach airlines etc before you get under the king pin. Then youā€™d get back in reverse back lock into kingpin do tug then clip etc. Its mainly done on reefers as no or very small gap on catwalk, but is a big no no in most places I believe

As said itā€™s a method of coupling where there is limited room between the unit and the trailer.

Ensure the trailer brake is on (very important), back part way under the trailer then connect the leads ecā€™t then reverse completely under the trailer.

Split coupling is safe enough if you know what youā€™re doing and take care but extra caution should be used especially on slopes, if the trailer rolls when you attach the air lines (yes it can happen) you could possibly get crushed between the unit and trailer or have a trailer trying to run away backwards.
Some people frown on split coupling, personally I have no problem with it but as garnerlives said itā€™s not allowed in some places and some companies will regard it as a serious disciplinary matter to the extent that agency drivers will be refused further work with the company if seen split coupling.

I am an agency driver working all the time for Fedex.I had been working for them for over 5 years before someone decided I had not had a driving assessment.
I was asked to couple up and uncouple to a trailer at the start and end of my assessment,and I did a split couple and uncouple as I usually do,as our trailers do run tight up to the unit.
The assessor watched every move and ticked all the boxes,nothing was said,so I think I must have passed.

Plenty of companies will allow split coupling but there are a lot that wonā€™t allow it under any circumstances.

To be honest whenever Iā€™ve done driver assessments Iā€™ve asked the assessor weather or not split coupling was allowed, a couple of times Iā€™ve been told a definite ā€œnoā€.

somerfields dont allow it (banned from site if caught) and neither do boots. not sure about tesco but their fifth wheels are far enough back anyway and the trailer connections are on a slider anyway. co op dont seem to bother. i did a split couple last night and i saw another driver doing it too. iceland/bookers dont mind. it seems to be companies that have had serious or fatal accidents that ban the practice

Split coupling is very simple as long as you do it properly. If you donā€™t follow the procedures a very serious accident or a fatallity could occur.

If your picking up a trailer, first back up to the trailer and adjust you suspension ride height to couple up. I always dump the air out of my suspension.

Reverse under the trailer leaving yourself a couple of feet gap.

Get out of your vehicle and make sure the trailer brake is applied. If it isnā€™t then apply it.

I then couple up all my air lines and suzies.

I then raise my suspension fully, to pick the trailer up off the ground so as not to bend the legs.

When the suspension is fully raised then reverse under the trailer fully until the pin in locked in place. A quick pull test to make sure your coupled up correctly.

Apply the dogclip and check around the trailer doing your normal checks etc.

Wind up the legs release the park brake.

Reset your ride height on the suspension and away you go.

I hope thereā€™s nothing iā€™ve missed if there is someone will correct me Iā€™m sure. There are also alot of people who donā€™t agree with this system of coupling but if your no stick insect you cant get between the cab and a fridge trailer, curtainsiders are a lot easier.

the only thing i would suggest is 2 pull tests. i was taught to do it twice but i cant remember the reason for that. i did however find out the hard way once. first pull, all is well. second pull, unit shot forward without the trailer. i dont know what happened but if i hadnt given it a couple of pulls i would have lost my trailer somewhere

of course this is irrelevant of whether or not a split coupling is being carried out. i pull twice regardless

If done properly, with the correct precautions, thereā€™s no problem. The snags start if you start taking short cuts (not checking trailer brake is the classic). Itā€™s actually acceptable on a DSA driving test where it is necessary. No problem at all.

My biggest fear is that drivers with little or no experience/understanding of the"normal" proceedure could easily become confused and make potentially dangerous errors. But once the system (and itā€™s reasons) are fully grasped, there shouldnā€™t be a problem with ā€œsplitā€ coupling. :laughing: :laughing:

i would have lost my trailer somewhere

Shows the importance of not taking short cuts. :laughing: