I know from my training with the HGV school how to couple up to the trailer using BLACK as a method to remember what to do (until it becomes second nature)
But over the last few days I have to let say shift the 5th wheel slighty as I not being happy with the gap between the trailer and cab (with this drop I had last night it was a good idea to stop and redo the 5th wheel )
Anyway, is there a outlined guide on the dos and donâts regaring sliding the 5th wheel.
The mechinic at the works garage said to couiple up and release the 5th wheel lock then move the unit to the required slot (gap). However if your backing underneath and notice that the pin doesnât lock until you smashed your lights or wings? (not happened!)
Over the last 2-3 nights has being a whole new learning experience regarding the 5th and also what it feels like to find some â â â â â breaking into your trailer whiile on a 45!
I donât think that there is a definitive guide as such.
Some companies say leave it alone upon threat of dismissal. With others, they will weigh the steer axle and, if it is overweight, send you back to re-adjust the setting.
Other, mainly tanks, will say it must be as far back as possible, particularly where there is ancilliary equipment attached to the front of the trailer.
xlthunter:
But over the last few days I have to let say shift the 5th wheel slighty as I not being happy with the gap between the trailer and cab
Iâd say that itâs best to leave a sliding 5th wheel where it is.
Thereâs probably a good reason for it being set that way
Just out of curiosity, why werenât you happy with the gap as it was??
Used to have to move mine on my FH12 sometimes as we had an old reefer with a really short pin on it. If you left the 5th wheel in the normal position for the deep pin reefers then fully loaded it would make the drive axle about 13 tonne with the short pin one. It was a real hassle moving it about as the arm on them is shorter than the normal pin release one, plus theyâre more awkward to get to and more often than not theyâre half seized up as well.
As a general rule, Iâd say that with all your modern and major companies it would never be a problem as theyâll have trailers with same depth pins, but smaller companies with a mix of different trailer types and manufacturers youâd need to be careful.
Donât ever assume that they will be alright and just slam the unit under the trailer until it hits home because thatâs a sure fire way of planting the trailer into the back of the cab. Always go steady when coupling up and keep an eye in the mirror watching to see how close the trailer is getting to the cab. If itâs looking close then get out and see how far the pin is into the jaws and then see how much gap youâve got left between trailer and the unit and take it from there.
As a rough rule of thumb, you need just 9 inches difference between the furthest forward most point of the trailer and the furthest rear point (usually the air deflection kit) of the unit. The exception to this is if the trailer has a rounded air deflector at the top of it, protruding forward - youâll know what I mean when you see one - in which case you can get away with 6 inches difference as the curve is designed to enable that bit of the trailer to clear as you turn. In practice, this still works out as 9 inches between unit âflapâ and straight trailer side, so thatâs your best guide.
You shouldnât be altering the fifth wheel by more than a couple of notches between settings anyway, any more than that and youâll be into weight problemsâŚAnother thing to bear in mind is that when the trailer you are under is loaded, itâs best to have a second set of hands to help as you may need to rock the unit to both disengage and engage the pin, plus this avoids the situation you asked about above where the lights get smashed on the legs. Good clutch control is the key to slow movement of the slider.
Lucy:
Another thing to bear in mind is that when the trailer you are under is loaded, itâs best to have a second set of hands to help as you may need to rock the unit to both disengage and engage the pin, plus this avoids the situation you asked about above where the lights get smashed on the legs. Good clutch control is the key to slow movement of the slider.
HTH.
If the trailer is heavy, either move the 5th wheel before going under it, or if connected, wind the legs down and dump the air from the unit which will take the weight off the 5th wheel and let it slide with no effort.
Lucy:
Another thing to bear in mind is that when the trailer you are under is loaded, itâs best to have a second set of hands to help as you may need to rock the unit to both disengage and engage the pin, plus this avoids the situation you asked about above where the lights get smashed on the legs. Good clutch control is the key to slow movement of the slider.
HTH.
If the trailer is heavy, either move the 5th wheel before going under it, or if connected, wind the legs down and dump the air from the unit which will take the weight off the 5th wheel and let it slide with no effort.
Exactly. I was just about to reply to Lucyâs post saying exactly that. Makes a nice change to find a fellow driver with brains .
If you are the only driver of the truck and you know which trailers you are pulling on a regular basis, then moving the plate is an option.
But if the trailer is used by several drivers, works for many companies or is on spot hire work, I would suggest leaving it alone as its too easy to wipe out a set of lights or mudwings.
If you grease them properly you should be able to slide them by hand before going under the trailer. I did use mine on a 6x2 DAF because I was pulling Tilts and Tankers for the same company.
Lucy:
Another thing to bear in mind is that when the trailer you are under is loaded, itâs best to have a second set of hands to help as you may need to rock the unit to both disengage and engage the pin, plus this avoids the situation you asked about above where the lights get smashed on the legs. Good clutch control is the key to slow movement of the slider.
HTH.
If the trailer is heavy, either move the 5th wheel before going under it, or if connected, wind the legs down and dump the air from the unit which will take the weight off the 5th wheel and let it slide with no effort.
I forgot to mention that bit! Itâs more the re-engaging which needs the second pair of eyes. Legs down or not, it can be a pig.
I know driving for Agency normaly i leave the 5th wheel alone as it is set by the company, but in a brand new Volvo FH13 Globetrotter i connected up to a fridge trailer and got out and noticed that i stood a good chance on turning of smashing the lights on the unit plus hitting the fridge unit. Prior to connecting anything i opened the fifth and used the unit to slide her opening the gap a bit thus preventing me smashing the lights as i was told on my HGV course, it worked for me but like i said it has been the only time i have had to do it. I also havenât heard of any ruling regarding this. Have Fun.
)
with the short pin one. It was a real hassle moving it about as the arm on them is shorter than the normal pin release one, plus theyâre more awkward to get to and more often than not theyâre half seized up as well. 
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Itâs more the re-engaging which needs the second pair of eyes. Legs down or not, it can be a pig. 
