Ever since we had the top end re set up the trucks been struggling for power and carnt figure out why. Anything over 12 tons and a slight incline it’s slowing down which before it would pull for England fully loaded.
The oil pressure also seems low to me around 1.5 bar idle and 3.5 to 4.0 max when on the move. I’m sure it should be around 4 idle as my 144 is.
It did have diesel in oil which original caused oil pressure to get low which had 2 new injectors and fresh oil.
The trucks a 53 plate 164 580 classic and was on r&m package up until 2 years ago from new so has been really well looked after and it’s coming upto a million k’s now.
Question 1 normally asked when there is a problem: Has any work been carried out on the vehicle recently? If it went to a main dealer for the work it just might be that they let one of the boys do the job.
Just are normal garage who knows his scania a pretty well and came highly recommended. Only work that was done is replace couple of injectors and reset the head. Only other thing was the compressor was replaced by scania under warranty.
Yeah I beleive it did get expensive but he reckoned it was worth it, was a owner driver from Liverpool had it from new and serviced through haydock commercials who sold it for him to us
Gav164580:
Ever since we had the top end re set up the trucks been struggling for power and carnt figure out why. Anything over 12 tons and a slight incline it’s slowing down which before it would pull for England fully loaded.
The oil pressure also seems low to me around 1.5 bar idle and 3.5 to 4.0 max when on the move. I’m sure it should be around 4 idle as my 144 is.
It did have diesel in oil which original caused oil pressure to get low which had 2 new injectors and fresh oil.
The trucks a 53 plate 164 580 classic and was on r&m package up until 2 years ago from new so has been really well looked after and it’s coming upto a million k’s now.
Any help would be appreciated
Thanks
if you get if fixed,let us know what it was, as we have a 164, & it slows on the hills, does yours sound the same ticking over, warm or cold,as ares sounds different when warm,
Your low oil pressure is down to worn big ends and mains, the fuel dilution problem you had is responsible as fuel is a spirit and it breaks down oil, this eats bearings. Do an oil sample and I’m willing to bet that you’ll have high levels of lead, this is a tell take of worn bearings, I forget the exact composition, but bearings are layered with zinc, tin and copper and then lead, once you get down to the lead it’s time to drop the sump.
That fuel dilution will also have done a number on the rings and liners and the loss of power could be because a lot of the bang from the combustion is escaping down past the rings into the crankcase.
newmercman:
Your low oil pressure is down to worn big ends and mains, the fuel dilution problem you had is responsible as fuel is a spirit and it breaks down oil, this eats bearings. Do an oil sample and I’m willing to bet that you’ll have high levels of lead, this is a tell take of worn bearings, I forget the exact composition, but bearings are layered with zinc, tin and copper and then lead, once you get down to the lead it’s time to drop the sump.
That fuel dilution will also have done a number on the rings and liners and the loss of power could be because a lot of the bang from the combustion is escaping down past the rings into the crankcase.
Agreed. Diesel in the oil for any period of time = [zb]ed engine. Time to dig deep! Check the turbo and intercooler pipe before you go down this route though just to be sure.
Always start with the cheap and easy things first, I’m sure that nobody is silly enough to rebuild an engine because somebody on the internet said it was the thing to do lol
An oil sample and consistent accurate monitoring of oil consumption is the only reason to rebuild a functional engine, obviously if it’s knocking or a rod is poking out through the block then they’re tell tale signs too and you’ll probably need to address those rather quickly!
Make sure you’re oil pressure gauge is reading correct before going any further, we had a 164 480 which was ran short of oil just short of the 2 million k mark and the gauge after repair read almost identical to what you describe, we had a flap on thinking it was going to get expensive but it turned out the gauge was incorrect. And it’s still going strong now, the gauge never passes 4 bar
You say that since the original problem of oil dilution the engine oil has been changed. Is it now the same grade of oil that it was before and is that the correct grade for the engine? This may have some influence on the oil pressure readings. It would be worthwhile getting the oil pressure checked with an accurate gauge. Compression testing to establish ring/bore wear as a cause of low power is somewhat regarded as old hat these days with so much information obtainable from the engine ECU.
AF1:
Make sure you’re oil pressure gauge is reading correct before going any further, we had a 164 480 which was ran short of oil just short of the 2 million k mark and the gauge after repair read almost identical to what you describe, we had a flap on thinking it was going to get expensive but it turned out the gauge was incorrect. And it’s still going strong now, the gauge never passes 4 bar
Exactly this, check the cheap things first. I know of a bloke that had an engine that burned a gallon of oil every 1000miles, he put a hundred gallons of top up oil in it before it went in for a rebuild, only to discover that it had the wrong dipstick and he was over filling it with oil and the engine was burning off the excess!
as we have a 164, & it slows on the hills, 
does yours sound the same ticking over, warm or cold,as ares sounds different when warm,