Hello folks
Been looking at one
Are there any known faults or problems to look out for specific to them ?
Thanks
Dee
Also the retarder works but the auto retarder doesn’t ,is this a big job to rectify?
Thanks
Dee
well, the 164 580 is at least 9 years old now, so, it will be ‘well used’
Globby480 is probably the best person to ask
Hi dee , the most common problem,s for any of the v8,s are , make sure there is no oil leaking around the bell housing area as these can come slack and cause a tremendous amount of trouble and take a lot of time to sort out .
Make sure tickover is nice and smooth or if its a ruff idle then you have injector trouble too .
Chassis crossmember cracks as you look over the back axel look at the back crossmember almost always cracked at that age
Header tanks also split easily .
Scania gearbox,s in general wont put up with mishandling either ,
Oil pressure should be around 4 bar ticking over or she’ll bearings on there way out.
Sound,s grim but at the end of the day unless your very lucky any 164 will probably be in around 1 million mark now or more and if you keep an eye on them will do twice that with a few new parts and time .
Thanks
Yes the cross member is cracked at both sides what about the retarder issue
Any ideas ?the truck is very clean and ticks over nicely ,what about clutch is there an easy way to check depth without the depth check tool ,also what mpg do you reckon?
Thanks dee
Deeireland:
Thanks
Yes the cross member is cracked at both sides what about the retarder issue
Any ideas ?the truck is very clean and ticks over nicely ,what about clutch is there an easy way to check depth without the depth check tool ,also what mpg do you reckon?
Thanks dee
The auto retarder, have you both switches on the dash turned on? it could be a simple fix as one aint plugged in for some reason, but silly question… how do you no the auto aint working when you say auto retarder do you mean when you let your foot of the loud pedal it doesn’t click on?? if so you need to set it to do so via the lever and little switch on top of it,or do you mean when you brake
not enough info on that really yet dee?, there could be a underlying ABS fault this will cause the retarder not to function right!!
as there is a easy cheat on the 4 series to make the Abs lights work and go out even when there is a fault!!!
fuel return anything from 6~9mpg driver pending if you had hanky spanky driving it… it would do 22mpg+ every day 
As chip liner said on the above is correct, as for the bell housing it aint to much of a hard job its just time consuming esp. just to replace a gasket but it is a known problem more so on earlier models but that doesn’t exclude later models either they come loose normally they tend to leak on the right hand side and from the top below the turbo manifolds…
A wise word for a V8 is to replace the bottom end on and around 850.kms and a good half a mornings work…for the price of a full bottom end set inc gaskets “gen scania parts” in around £350 ish its a lot cheaper than a second hand lump or a new lump at around 12k…
if looked after right they will out run for many,many,many years those down hill racers at asda price purchase costs!! and even more those recycled U BOATS some folk call MAN"s 
or a poor mans merc!!
see you all in another 2 months 
It’s when you brake ,auto retarder doesn’t work,it should kick in automatically shouldn’t it?
Also at the passenger side rear of cab at the bottom there is a set of vents and behind there is a fan,square shape is this to do with gearbox cooling and if so are they known to fail and cause the pockets to be emptied.
Thanks for the feedback
Dee
Deeireland:
It’s when you brake ,auto retarder doesn’t work,it should kick in automatically shouldn’t it?
Also at the passenger side rear of cab at the bottom there is a set of vents and behind there is a fan,square shape is this to do with gearbox cooling and if so are they known to fail and cause the pockets to be emptied.
Thanks for the feedback
Dee
Hi Dee, yes if its set to auto with the exhaust brake on as well it should click in there could be a few faults from a faulty switch to the valve by the retarder its self plus a few other issues in between as well, But I still would go Abs issue somewhere for it not to click over when the foot brake is applied. just one thing does the brake lights come on when the pedal is pressed?? it could also be a relay/fuse aswell something simple but 9 times out of 10 it never is,
the gearbox cooler was a total was of time best thing to do with that is to take it of and throw it in the skip, and blank the oil return pipes off they don’t need a cooler in this country or even Europe really, maybe if you are pulling 150t + it may help a little
they was only fitted to the early 580"s and they seemed to do away with them from around 02 models on,
Dee also for a truck of that age I wouldn’t be to pick with little items as auto retarder etc, its getting on in its days so with may come with a fault or two what can normally be expected at that age buddy,
easyiest way to find out why the retarder aint working as well check the diagnostics in the dash it will give you so many flashes and blinks "god knows what they mean never been able to get my head round it I just ring a chap and he tell me the fault when I tell him how many flashes etc, or even have it pluged in at scania and they should be able to tell you with in 5 mins the problem ,Daz
Thanks for that info globey much appreciated
I went and had another look at it and test drive and have decided not to go for it.
Thanks very much again
Dee