Hi everyone. I’m a total new user of the forum so do forgive me if I post in the wrong place or make any other errors.
I’ve got a 1978 ford d series D0710 which I use as a horsebox. Just been in for its mot and failed on 3 things Drag link end boot (sorted) fuel cap seal not secure (sorted) and a 34% imbalance on the N/S rear brake. So we brought it home, stripped the N/S rear wheel and found the cylinder was goosed, got another one, freed everything up and went for a voluntary brake test and our was 40 odd % out! We turned the manual adjuster and got it down to 25% imbalance. Took it home again and re - bled the brakes (garage was closing at lunch time so couldn’t do another test) so I just tried driving it up and down the yard and slamming on. The O/S brake is locking on but N/S isn’t.
We’ve tried everything we can think of- drum isn’t warped or scored or contaminated, we’ve roughed off the brake pads, clicked the manual adjuster until brakes were locked on then backed them off a bit, bled all the brakes and then re bled them but still my partner says it looks like the O/S is locking on more than the N/S.
I don’t know what else to try (Oh forgot to say load sensing valve appears to be fully operational-it was replaced a few years ago) I’m hoping someone who is more knowledgeable than me will have some ideas
My lad had the same problem albeit on a Leyland roadrunner he did allsorts of adjustments and bled them dont know how many times to no avail I told him to get the brake warmed up on his way to test station then readjust them before he went in which he did on an industrial estate close to home and he presented it for retest and it flew through.give it a try it may work on yours.
I’d give it away.
In fact, give it to me. I’ve been after one for ages.
Thanks John. I normally take it to a test centre 20 miles away from home so that should be enough to warm it up? ( they are non picky and help with bits and bobs if they can for example after we replaced the handbrake actuator my husband forgot to replace 2 split pins which would’ve been a prohibition but they replaced them for me) but I was going to take it to a local merc garage for the retest however I believe they are very picky. Might just take it to my usual place- gives it time to warm up and they all know me and the lorry.
I feel that before bleeding it for the second time, the brakes were spongy but now they feel quite hard when i press down but my husband (who can’t drive the thing by the way) thinks that because they aren’t both locking on and leaving skid marks then they are still faulty. I’m not even sure that the local place we’ve used for retest is testing them properly.
I’m so fed up with these ■■■■ brakes!
Ha ha Nove no way she’s mine for keeps lol
■■■■. First truck I ever sat in was a T reg D series 0710
Really? Mine is a T reg too! Love her to bits. Never let me down apart from the time some scum bag stole £80 worth of diesel out of it and I didn’t notice the fuel gauge on empty and I broke down across 2 lanes on the M6 in rush hour - whoops! Luckily we made it to Cheshire show on time on the back of a low loader but I did cause a 15 mile tail back on the motorway
LadyD:
Really? Mine is a T reg too! Love her to bits. Never let me down apart from the time some scum bag stole £80 worth of diesel out of it and I didn’t notice the fuel gauge on empty and I broke down across 2 lanes on the M6 in rush hour - whoops! Luckily we made it to Cheshire show on time on the back of a low loader but I did cause a 15 mile tail back on the motorway
Grrrrr. That was you was it? Lol
how about checking the other side it might be causing the problem, little fords did have a problem with locking the front wheels when you only looked at the pedal. could be the foot valve
Hi ,get a hand full of cat litter made with fullers earth in a rag ,crush it up ,and put it in the drums .
Dan Punchard:
Hi ,get a hand full of cat litter made with fullers earth in a rag ,crush it up ,and put it in the drums .
Dan my man you are defo from the old school, Regards Larry.
I’ve had brake issues before where the tester told me to go round the corner and take the brakes right up ,I brought it back in binding ,straight on the rollers ,he passed it then I backed them off again .have you tried a brake test with some weight in the back ?
Try to get some weight on it I use a Ibc tank and fill with water for horse boxes
LadyD:
Hi everyone. I’m a total new user of the forum so do forgive me if I post in the wrong place or make any other errors.
I’ve got a 1978 ford d series D0710 which I use as a horsebox. Just been in for its mot and failed on 3 things Drag link end boot (sorted) fuel cap seal not secure (sorted) and a 34% imbalance on the N/S rear brake. So we brought it home, stripped the N/S rear wheel and found the cylinder was goosed, got another one, freed everything up and went for a voluntary brake test and our was 40 odd % out! We turned the manual adjuster and got it down to 25% imbalance. Took it home again and re - bled the brakes (garage was closing at lunch time so couldn’t do another test) so I just tried driving it up and down the yard and slamming on. The O/S brake is locking on but N/S isn’t.
We’ve tried everything we can think of- drum isn’t warped or scored or contaminated, we’ve roughed off the brake pads, clicked the manual adjuster until brakes were locked on then backed them off a bit, bled all the brakes and then re bled them but still my partner says it looks like the O/S is locking on more than the N/S.
I don’t know what else to try (Oh forgot to say load sensing valve appears to be fully operational-it was replaced a few years ago) I’m hoping someone who is more knowledgeable than me will have some ideas
Is this a new correct cylinder or just another one? If it is second hand it may well be sticking, or if the bore of the cylinder is of a different size to the one on the other side then you will never eliminate a brake imbalance. A kinked brake pipe will have the same effect. Like wise if your failed wheel cylinder had leaked fluid onto the brake linings, or if the hub oil seal had done so at some time in the past then you may end up having to reline the rear brakes because the linings are contaminated. The 0710 uses brake linings of unequal thickness in each drum, it is possible for these to be assembled incorrectly either in one drum or across the axle.
Apart from this the vehicle has by the sound of it been running around with insufficient effort coming from the n/s/r for some time. This would indicate that this brake is not bedded in. With some weight in the back and enough brake applications to get the drums and linings warm enough, thus bedding it all in again, you should be seeing some improvement. Can you post all the rollerbrake test readings from the print out including the handbrake?
When you re-present it for test ensure that you build up the air pressure to its maximum between testing each wheel, apply the brake fairly slowly and end up virtually standing on the pedal. Many failures on brakes are due to a driver error in procedure.
Like I say Lady D get them nice and warm and it will fly through.If its anything like my lads horsebox it stands about doing nothing most of the year then he runs it in for test and finds he has problems with the brakes.Adjust them up close and get them warm this is all he does with them now.
drain off air tanks and change the valve on top of one I think it is a pressure regulator,also I would change the load sensor as they can fail regularly, fit 2 new wheel cylinders and brake shoes with a leading edge on,refit bleed and adjust,take for a god run to bed the shoes in and then re-adjust. good luck. 