Try it and see how it turns out.
Having a look on truck model world to see if I can find anything like it you should see if you can find a 70s 80’s yard
I have that all worked out in my head, I’ve got it all figured out down to the tiny details.
Here’s some rust effects for you IL
And a rusty tool box door on an F series Volvo…
Jeff…
Here you go NNM some basic boxes with a bit of dressing up…
Sauid spec cool box
when you get a bit more advanced…
And when you have to much time to spend
Any questions just ask…
Jeff…
No questions, I’m impressed to the point of speechlessness.
Great work Jeff!
What the f**k?
I love the water container and the shifter spanner good stuff Jeff. Here’s a couple o photos of bits I made for a 1950s fire engine I am building. Eddie.
fantastic job regards rowly
how are you people so bloody clever
rward:
how are you people so bloody clever
It’s easier in miniature Rward, than building the real McCoy like you 
R Jimski
Jelliot:
Here’s some rust effects for you IL
And a rusty tool box door on an F series Volvo…
Jeff…
did you use a brush
Some truly amazing work here, a credit to you all!
Apologies for asking this here but I’ve run out of ideas: Is something wrong with the Truck Model World website?
I’ve not logged in for a long time & have forgotten my password. I’ve attempted to reset it, I’ve also tried to create a completely new account, but nothing seems to be working for me.
New content does seem to be being added to the site.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Andrew.
Pebbles 74:
Some truly amazing work here, a credit to you all!Apologies for asking this here but I’ve run out of ideas: Is something wrong with the Truck Model World website?
I’ve not logged in for a long time & have forgotten my password. I’ve attempted to reset it, I’ve also tried to create a completely new account, but nothing seems to be working for me.
New content does seem to be being added to the site.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Andrew.
Same problem try emailing them
Good looking detail there Eddie, it’s a harder to do the show room floor stuff like you do than it is to weather them. If you get a blob of something in the wrong place or if something’s not quite square they it’s all over, and you have to do that bit again. If your doing weathering then you can make that into something or say it’s had a bit of knock, it just adds to the final look. That’s why most of my stuff is weathered
IL for the rusty toll box door I painted the cab white then a few days after that I blobbed a bit of Humbrol rust colour round where the seeme would be, let that dry for a day or so then go round the edge of the rust with a bit of white Humbrol to make it look like the whites peeling back over the rust. Other that the drying time the whole job took about 20 minutes. For the rust on the front of the cab, I think I used either a small paint brush or cocktail stick, probably both, and the paint was both straight from the tin and thinned out for different effects.
For the exhaust down pipe and can, I get a bit of baking paper ( grease proof paper ) to use as a pallet. Blob a bit of gray, white, black metallic silver and a couple of shades of brown on to it with some thinners and paint it all from end to end with the gray and silver colours. As it’s drying ( 20 to 40 minutes ) I stripe on more colour with a hard hair brush and that gives it a pitted rust look. Let that sit for a few hours or days, then get back into it with the shades of brown, you can either stripe that on or do light, very thinned washes until you get something that look like what you wanted.
It’s not that challenging but it is good fun, there must be 1000’s of utube vids about weathering, have a look and give it go.
Jeff…
Would the way I said work to spay the cab a rust colour then spay it black and then chip the paint of in some places and then sand it to get a flat colour I would need to get a picture of the 35 I copying to show you how rusty I’m trying to get it
Only one way to find out
Better stock up on the Fairy Liquid… Just in case 
There is a similar method that is done by the military guys…
paint it rust, they cover it with hairspray, then do the colour on top. The hairspray stops the top coat of paint sticking to the rust colour, once you have finished sanding or scratching the top coat of you apply clear, either gloss satin or matte depending on you taste. I tried it a couple of time but it didn’t work well for me as I use industrial automotive paint, I believe it works for Tamia and Humbrol fairly well…
Jeff…
So do I Will try it on a part of my 164 kit first and see how it turns out