Microwave Question

Hi All,

I have just bought a 1500w 3000 peak inverter and have been told I can run a 240v 700w microwave off, can it be run off my Daf 105 24v socket ?
Any advise would be greatly appreciated ! :smiley:

Thank you…

rob.jonesno1:
Hi All,

I have just bought a 1500w 3000 peak inverter and have been told I can run a 240v 700w microwave off, can it be run off my Daf 105 24v socket ?
Any advise would be greatly appreciated ! :smiley:

Thank you…

No - hope that helps

hell no,you need an anderson lead running straight from the batteries with a big ■■■■ off fuse near the batteries for safety and thick wires to take the current.

Fire fire, fire fire don’t pour on water… I’ve got a xf105 and the inverter is under the bunk and hard wired to the batteries with heavy duty cable and fuse,and then household wiring to a 3 pin socket in middle top cupboard.

big boots:
hell no,you need an anderson lead running straight from the batteries with a big [zb] off fuse near the batteries for safety and thick wires to take the current.

Yeah just checked the one in my kitchen which is 800watts and we’ve and anderson lead with great thick wires going to a normal household pug. Looks crap on the worktop, but works great !!! :smiley:

Mike-C:

big boots:
hell no,you need an anderson lead running straight from the batteries with a big [zb] off fuse near the batteries for safety and thick wires to take the current.

Yeah just checked the one in my kitchen which is 800watts and we’ve and anderson lead with great thick wires going to a normal household pug. Looks crap on the worktop, but works great !!! :smiley:

Funny Mike, but in all seriousness - Watts = Volts * Amps. So, if a 700W microwave can peak at around 1400W (for example), then at 1400W on a 240V system it’s only taking 5.9 Amps, but on a 24V system it’s taking 59 Amps. So, you’d want some nice thick wire wouldn’t you, and a big ■■■■ off fuse, where as your home Microwave can get away with a 13amp fuse. But, once it’s running FROM the inverter at 240V, the amps drop, so you can use normal household stuff…

All very basic really

waynedl:

Mike-C:

big boots:
hell no,you need an anderson lead running straight from the batteries with a big [zb] off fuse near the batteries for safety and thick wires to take the current.

Yeah just checked the one in my kitchen which is 800watts and we’ve and anderson lead with great thick wires going to a normal household pug. Looks crap on the worktop, but works great !!! :smiley:

Funny Mike, but in all seriousness - Watts = Volts * Amps. So, if a 700W microwave can peak at around 1400W (for example), then at 1400W on a 240V system it’s only taking 5.9 Amps, but on a 24V system it’s taking 59 Amps. So, you’d want some nice thick wire wouldn’t you, and a big [zb] off fuse, where as your home Microwave can get away with a 13amp fuse. But, once it’s running FROM the inverter at 240V, the amps drop, so you can use normal household stuff…

All very basic really

Just wrap the 59 Amp carrying wire around your sausage roll and turn on the microwave, The sausage roll should heat up a treat, or just get flame grilled… Everyone’s a winner! :smiley: (Don’t try this at home kids!!!)

P.S. By fuse, do you mean M6 bolt? :open_mouth:

Mike-C:

big boots:
hell no,you need an anderson lead running straight from the batteries with a big [zb] off fuse near the batteries for safety and thick wires to take the current.

Yeah just checked the one in my kitchen which is 800watts and we’ve and anderson lead with great thick wires going to a normal household pug. Looks crap on the worktop, but works great !!! :smiley:

Yes, but you don’t have a 24v electrical supply in your kitchen.

In all seriousness, while you can’t run a microwave oven off of a cab socket, you don’t need an Anderson lead either, I have an 800w microwave oven running from a 2kw inverter and the inverter is hard-wired with 3mm copper cable.

I put my inverter in my side locker and wired it to a set of jump leads. I simply open the locker door and connect the leads to the battery and it works fine. If you want the microwave in a top locker in the cab, make a short extension lead from the inverter to the Microwave.

Evil8Beezle:
P.S. By fuse, do you mean M6 bolt? :open_mouth:

I think he means if you pull the fuse you can make a bolt for it on the M6 but I’d go on the M6 toll as well to be honest much less traffic :wink: :wink: :laughing:

Harry Monk:

Mike-C:

big boots:
hell no,you need an anderson lead running straight from the batteries with a big [zb] off fuse near the batteries for safety and thick wires to take the current.

Yeah just checked the one in my kitchen which is 800watts and we’ve and anderson lead with great thick wires going to a normal household pug. Looks crap on the worktop, but works great !!! :smiley:

Yes, but you don’t have a 24v electrical supply in your kitchen.

he does now :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

In my 95 XF the inverter is wired up to the main power supply at the front of the cab, you peel up the passenger foot well mat at the front where it slopes up and your feet would rest, there is a black plastic panel with some plastic screws holding it in place where the dash joins the floor, behind there is the main electrics for the cab there are 2 studs the one with the red plastic cover is live and the one without the cap is earth, there will be some other wires already attached there, but do check them first with a multimeter or a test light, the cable I used are similar in diameter as what you would wire an alternator up with,and the connectors are yellow ring terminals, the studs are M8 (13mm spanner) the cable donsnt need to be really heavy grade because the current is stepped up inside the inverter, i ran the cables underneath the black plastic channel next to the door seal and then up into the box at the foot of the bunk where the inverter is installed, mine is a durite, and has a remote control which is installed in the recess where the cab heater control and interior light switches are in the cab back panel, so you can turn the inverter on and off easily, and then i use a 3m extension cable from the inverter up to the microwave in the middle cupboard. its quite a neat install and powers my 850w microwave with ease and without the engine running, hope this helps.

jcbdriver:
In my 95 XF the inverter is wired up to the main power supply at the front of the cab, you peel up the passenger foot well mat at the front where it slopes up and your feet would rest, there is a black plastic panel with some plastic screws holding it in place where the dash joins the floor, behind there is the main electrics for the cab there are 2 studs the one with the red plastic cover is live and the one without the cap is earth, there will be some other wires already attached there, but do check them first with a multimeter or a test light, the cable I used are similar in diameter as what you would wire an alternator up with,and the connectors are yellow ring terminals, the studs are M8 (13mm spanner) the cable donsnt need to be really heavy grade because the current is stepped up inside the inverter, i ran the cables underneath the black plastic channel next to the door seal and then up into the box at the foot of the bunk where the inverter is installed, mine is a durite, and has a remote control which is installed in the recess where the cab heater control and interior light switches are in the cab back panel, so you can turn the inverter on and off easily, and then i use a 3m extension cable from the inverter up to the microwave in the middle cupboard. its quite a neat install and powers my 850w microwave with ease and without the engine running, hope this helps.

I think you will find that as the inverter steps UP the voltage from 24 to 240, the current (amps) is stepped DOWN in the inverter. I.e. The supply cable to the inverter is LOW voltage and HIGH current. And the output from the inverter is HIGH voltage and LOW current. (Respectively). See Waynedl’s post earlier in this thread.

Evil8Beezle:

jcbdriver:
In my 95 XF the inverter is wired up to the main power supply at the front of the cab, you peel up the passenger foot well mat at the front where it slopes up and your feet would rest, there is a black plastic panel with some plastic screws holding it in place where the dash joins the floor, behind there is the main electrics for the cab there are 2 studs the one with the red plastic cover is live and the one without the cap is earth, there will be some other wires already attached there, but do check them first with a multimeter or a test light, the cable I used are similar in diameter as what you would wire an alternator up with,and the connectors are yellow ring terminals, the studs are M8 (13mm spanner) the cable donsnt need to be really heavy grade because the current is stepped up inside the inverter, i ran the cables underneath the black plastic channel next to the door seal and then up into the box at the foot of the bunk where the inverter is installed, mine is a durite, and has a remote control which is installed in the recess where the cab heater control and interior light switches are in the cab back panel, so you can turn the inverter on and off easily, and then i use a 3m extension cable from the inverter up to the microwave in the middle cupboard. its quite a neat install and powers my 850w microwave with ease and without the engine running, hope this helps.

I think you will find that as the inverter steps UP the voltage from 24 to 240, the current (amps) is stepped DOWN in the inverter. I.e. The supply cable to the inverter is LOW voltage and HIGH current. And the output from the inverter is HIGH voltage and LOW current. (Respectively). See Waynedl’s post earlier in this thread.

Hello Evil8Beezle, sorry, thats what I meant, what I was trying to explain is that you don’t need massively heavy jump lead gauge cables, I wired mine up at my local auto electricians under his guidance to make sure everything was correct, I have some photos of the install so I should post them for people to see, Thanks

Thought you probably did, but didn’t want others to misread it. Yes you don’t need jump lead size cable, but speaker cable isn’t going to cut it! lol :smiley: