Hi, anybody got any info on valve clearance set up on tgx 440 , procedure and how often these need checked any help much appreciated thanks
The valves should be reset on every oil change service, approx every 90000KMs
As for the tolerences, talk to your local MAN dealer, they should tell you
off the top of my head for a man 440 2008 models
.5mm inlet
.6mm eng brake
.8mm exhaust
do the tappets in 2 stages.
remove plastic plate on o/s of flywheel and just behind the ring gear is the timing marks. turn the eng and align the timing mark OD with the pointer in the centre of the inspection hole
i.e no6 on rock , adj all 3 no1 , inlet no2 , ex and brake no3 , inlet no4 , ex and brake no5
turn the engine 1 complete turn so no1 on rock and ,adj all 3 no6 , etc
to adj the inlet its just a conventional setup
the problem is on the exhaust/engine brake
with a screwdriver push the oil filled plunger of the eng brake down approx 6 times to get the eng oil out of it, then check the gap between the plunger and if need be adj .6mm. now you can check and adj the ex valve the conventional way
if any doubt the valves need to be a little on the loose side , because if to tight you will get valve and seat and cracked head faults
shuttlespanker:
The valves should be reset on every oil change service, approx every 90000KMsAs for the tolerences, talk to your local MAN dealer, they should tell you
A service every 90k.I like you thought these huge interval’s where to be adhered to,but any mechanic worth his weight will tell you different. 
ramhead:
off the top of my head for a man 440 2008 models
.5mm inlet
.6mm eng brake
.8mm exhaust
do the tappets in 2 stages.
remove plastic plate on o/s of flywheel and just behind the ring gear is the timing marks. turn the eng and align the timing mark OD with the pointer in the centre of the inspection hole
i.e no6 on rock , adj all 3 no1 , inlet no2 , ex and brake no3 , inlet no4 , ex and brake no5
turn the engine 1 complete turn so no1 on rock and ,adj all 3 no6 , etc
to adj the inlet its just a conventional setup
the problem is on the exhaust/engine brake
with a screwdriver push the oil filled plunger of the eng brake down approx 6 times to get the eng oil out of it, then check the gap between the plunger and if need be adj .6mm. now you can check and adj the ex valve the conventional way
if any doubt the valves need to be a little on the loose side , because if to tight you will get valve and seat and cracked head faults
All that just off the top of your head 
reasonable memory after working on approx 200 tga/x and doing the tappets every oil change , which when said trucks are doing approx 300.000kms a year so have 4 oil change services and tappets , oh and tappets at mot time as well
most of the mans have gone for export and have been replaced with premium 450/460 
which are another truck thats ok for the first 2 years
well seeing as i run an old tga i hope wont mind me asking you the odd question 
just thought of the first one,
why are the compressors sooooo noisy? makes the engine sound like a bag of spanners
back lash in the timing gears
I have no idea what that means but thankyou anyway
on a serious note though, i,m getting a bit of oil into the air system, Man have suggested the compressor needs changing, i argued you must be able to get some sort or gasket/repair kit for them to stop the oil getting through ■■
if you are getting oil into the compressed air its proberly the compressor piston rings allowing some oil though (past the piston rings in the comp)
shuttlespanker:
The valves should be reset on every oil change service, approx every 90000KMsAs for the tolerences, talk to your local MAN dealer, they should tell you
Oil gets changed at 40k castrol low saps, tried longer interval but oil sample comes back with high soot never believed in extended drain periods with any manufacturer -oil brand.Tipper work dont help either mind! ?
ellies dad:
shuttlespanker:
The valves should be reset on every oil change service, approx every 90000KMsAs for the tolerences, talk to your local MAN dealer, they should tell you
A service every 90k.I like you thought these huge interval’s where to be adhered to,but any mechanic worth his weight will tell you different.
Yet again the aitn a clue what service intrevals are recommended by the truck makes and oil specs used must only be the who remould there wellies
Call into an man dealer and have the service profit check set up. This is the only true way of having the correct oil change intervals. The FFR will calculate oil change intervals according to the fuel use age, mileage, running hours of the engine. The service life will differ to every truck , tippers and semi tractor vehicles on PTO operation will have a lower mileage interval than a vehicle trunking up and down motorways everyday.
Valves clearance are required with every oil change and will always need adjusted… That’s a definite
ramhead:
if you are getting oil into the compressed air its proberly the compressor piston rings allowing some oil though (past the piston rings in the comp)
so my question still stands, is it a new compressor i need as MAN are trying to sell me or can you get a Gasket/Repair kit for it?
chaversdad:
ramhead:
if you are getting oil into the compressed air its proberly the compressor piston rings allowing some oil though (past the piston rings in the comp)so my question still stands, is it a new compressor i need as MAN are trying to sell me or can you get a Gasket/Repair kit for it?
I’m not a fan of any of these service kits much really. Often not that cheap and don’t get the component back to 100% if at all. Only seem to work if you do a lot of them and someone in the workshop becomes the xyz service kit expert. Bit like caliper service kits where again I think you’re better off sending them to a full time specialist remanufacturer.
If it’s the right sort of mileage to need changing I would as compressor failure has a good chance of being a wreckered in from the side of the road job and what starts as a worn compressor ends up being a knackered drier too.
i know what your saying but £176 for the kit v £2670 for a new compressor is a bit of a saving
Ok, crack on with the kit. Think I might start a MAN breakers
well i,ve found somewhere that sells them reconditioned with all the seals/gaskets replaced for £400 so i think thats the way i,ll be heading
Main problem with tappets on old push rod engines is that they lose clearance and cause blow by.Set em all at .8 mill and you wont be far off.
Set them every 100,000 km.
The reason the tappets get tight is that over time the valve springs slowly cause the valve heads due to impact to sit deeper into the valve seats so reducing valve clearance.If they get a bit slack it dont matter.The speed these things rotate and the amount of valve overlap wont make any difference to engine performance.Lets face it they are a bloody old donkey engine not somthing you put in an F1 car
chaversdad:
I have no idea what that means but thankyou anywayon a serious note though, i,m getting a bit of oil into the air system, Man have suggested the compressor needs changing, i argued you must be able to get some sort or gasket/repair kit for them to stop the oil getting through ■■
The latest Wabco drier cannister has an oil absorber in it.Dont know if MAN can supply them but if not get them from mercedes.They are silver and are “supposed” to extract oil vapour from the air.
Reason they had to go on to these is due to using compressors with need feedback loop and the compressors are constantly pumping either into the air system or to atmosphere.
Crap idea.