Hi Guys
Is anyone on able to tell me the correct cold cranking AMPs required to start my DAF XF 95 480.
I want to buy an emergency power pack as I expect a flat battery after Xmas. Not to sure which one as the price varies so much and I only want it for now and then.
All help will be greatly welcomed.
Can’t you leave it on a trickle charge? Would be cheaper!
why are you expecting a flat bettery after christmans?
just turn everything off, including the fridge if fitted, then go every few days and start it up
I have been caught out a few times when least expecting it. For what reason is beyond me. But I have decided I will feel safer with an emergency starter, So my worries are completly gone. Even if I did leave something on I can say oh well I will have to jump it.
The reason I ask about AMPs is I wanted to buy as cheaply as poss. I have just aquired a Sealey RS125 12V 24V Emergency Starter Booster Pack for £180 600amp cold cranking. I hope that does the trick.
Thanks for your interest.
if/when jump starting the DAF, turn the lights on BEFORE you try and start it, this will help protect the ECU from overload
Thanks for the tip Shuttlespanker.
Would that applt to all vehicles or just a Daf
personally, i would do it on all vehicles, if you think about it, a truck runs 24v, you will have 2 x 24v starting it, there can be a power spike thatb takes out the ECU before the protector kicks in
Whilst living in the past, we always did that, turn the headlights on, it also helps to protect any telemetry or trackers.
I always advised people not to jump start vehicles without using a surge protector if they had a transics or similar on board computer fitted. But since watching the mechanics in the workshops, it seems as though the headlight thing seems to work just as well.
A modern trucks batteries should stand for a week in winter with the isolator turned off, the tacho supply is very slight
A truck with batteries in good condition should fire up if stood over Xmas, mine always do, but I always remove the battery earth terminal rather than relying on the isolator switch. If your batteries are a bit suspect, spend money replacing them rather than spending it on a booster.
coiler:
A truck with batteries in good condition should fire up if stood over Xmas, mine always do, but I always remove the battery earth terminal rather than relying on the isolator switch. If your batteries are a bit suspect, spend money replacing them rather than spending it on a booster.
Too late he’s dunnit! Boys and their toys… 
I have been nurturing my batteries since new (now a 54 plate) Im not giving up on them quite yet. I dont think they ever had a drop of water put in by anyone other than me and the main dealers have always looked after it.
I still feel happier now im armed with backup power, New batteries can still go flat.
bighands:
… I still feel happier now im armed with backup power, New batteries can still go flat.
That’s very true mate, especially in the cold weather.
when jumpstarting, the lights should only be turned on after the vehicle is started and the leads are to be disconnected (along with heater blower and wipers on fast speed)
The_DAF_Man:
when jumpstarting, the lights should only be turned on after the vehicle is started and the leads are to be disconnected (along with heater blower and wipers on fast speed)
Are you sure?
The lorry is stood for a week, its frozen up and you want the wipers turned on full.
Well I have hands, arms and deicer.
Its either that or you could blow your ECU? Up to you.
Leads should be left on for 10 minutes minimum after engine started anyway, plenty of time to get screen clear.
The_DAF_Man:
Well I have hands, arms and deicer.Its either that or you could blow your ECU? Up to you.
Leads should be left on for 10 minutes minimum after engine started anyway, plenty of time to get screen clear.
de-icer■■?
no thanks, i would rather use a scraper 
shuttlespanker:
de-icer■■?no thanks, i would rather use a scraper
Depends if its your own truck! Jump start, doors closed, night heater on, 10 mins lovely!
The_DAF_Man:
Well I have hands, arms and deicer.Its either that or you could blow your ECU? Up to you.
Leads should be left on for 10 minutes minimum after engine started anyway, plenty of time to get screen clear.
I agree with leaving leads on for a while after, in fact I am sure I posted that here before, but I put the lights on before connecting up, it works on a modern motorbike too as there is no light switch. The ECU is damaged by an electrical spike, whether that is when you connect or disconnect!
If anyone is not comfortable, call for assistance!
The_DAF_Man:
Leads should be left on for 10 minutes minimum after engine started anyway, plenty of time to get screen clear.
…never heard that one before, what does that do then??
I was told to connect up the slave battery but without the engine running, leave it connected to the dead battery for about 10 mins then have a go at fireing up, again without the engine of the slave vehicle running!!!
This may explain why i cooked the ECU on my Range Rover 
bullitt:
The_DAF_Man:
Leads should be left on for 10 minutes minimum after engine started anyway, plenty of time to get screen clear.
I was told to connect up the slave battery but without the engine running, leave it connected to the dead battery for about 10 mins then have a go at fireing up, again without the engine of the slave vehicle running!!!
This may explain why i cooked the ECU on my Range Rover
If the batteries are really dead, when the leads are disconnected the alternator will see a low voltage. This is when it spikes the ECUs, trying to compensate for low battery voltage, hence putting the lights on while disconnecting, this will blow your headlight bulbs rather than your computer. The heater motor and wipers are turned on as a voltage spike will simply make them run faster for a second, again to ‘soak up’ the voltage spike.
Leaving the leads on after starting is to get as much charge into the batteries as possible, also to prevent a spike.