hello all, not sure if this is the correct place to input this question, but here goes. im looking at changing standard blaupunk cd player with something else, also fitting a new companants in the dash and a small subwoofer behind passenger seat. question is. can i use current products you install in cars or has it all got to be 24v compatiable weather car audio equipment is or not im not sure, just dont want to spend out rig it all in then it pops.
many thanks james
Should be OK with 12V stuff. Check the voltage on the wiring first. If the subwoofer is powered you’ll need to run it from the dropper.
wiring that i put in, or on the headunit wires? id get bigger powered wires to the amp anyway, once i get a definate answer ill then buy the stuff ive got lined up. also whats a dropper. sorry not totally into all ins and outs of things yet.
cheers buddy
Aftermarket speakers are fine to use
A 12v car radio will work but will have to be powered from the dropper
ok follow now, with the dropper, where would i wire this into ? of the battery or a point in the cab?? would i need one for the headunit?? and i one for the amp. or just one for the amp?? anyone wired this in before?? cars im fine with as i have done mine, but 24v is throwing me
Lamby-BET:
ok follow now, with the dropper, where would i wire this into ? of the battery or a point in the cab?? would i need one for the headunit?? and i one for the amp. or just one for the amp?? anyone wired this in before?? cars im fine with as i have done mine, but 24v is throwing me
Buy a dropper wire it to a supply point on the fuse board. Power everything from the dropper at 12v fella, simples 
so find a dropper with multiple output positive wiring?? but wire it into a live on the fuse box then link lives to the head unit and amp via the dropper that way■■?
Lamby-BET:
so find a dropper with multiple output positive wiring?? but wire it into a live on the fuse box then link lives to the head unit and amp via the dropper that way■■?
Yep, take a 24v feed for the dropper then you have a 12v feed out of it to do what you want with. Doubt you’ll need multiple output dropper just use connectors to provide relevant number of feeds i.e. head unit, amp … 
cheers buddy helps alot
found this… ebay.co.uk/itm/Truck-24v-To- … 564f96b16a
or go for a bigger wattage one??
then i could just run two lives from the 12v output side one to each part■■? as they will be self earthed wont need to use the - terminal on the 12v side on the dropper should i…
If you put the dropper near the fuse box you may be able to “hijack” the power feed for the radio off the fuse board too, meaning less messy wiring . Especially if you can get a lead made up by local car radio place or find one online to connect your new head into the existing loom possible even keeping steering wheel controls that way too
That’s about as far as my electrical knowledge goes mate sorry
good thinking, only problem is my fuse box is in flemish lol… so have to research to where that fuse is. wiring things in isnt a problem. just finding what i need is lol. and keeping wheel controls would be a bonus, are the connections on the back of the head unit the same iso connectors as cars or need adapters from headunit to iso blocks??
Lamby-BET:
cheers buddy helps alotfound this… ebay.co.uk/itm/Truck-24v-To- … 564f96b16a
or go for a bigger wattage one??
then i could just run two lives from the 12v output side one to each part■■? as they will be self earthed wont need to use the - terminal on the 12v side on the dropper should i…
I would definitely connect the -ve on the dropper to a good neg. via a suitable cable.It’s no good having well fused inputs and adequate output wires because the - side has to cope with the same current demands.
ahhh ok, fair point thank you… ill earth everything out properly . hopefully this droppper i get will be good enough. worse i can do is blow fuses if not. everything im getting has its own fuse. ordering bits up now so will test fit before it all goes in then rig it all up properly.
thanks everyone for your help.
Looking at that dropper you a put link up for, it is only rated at 5amps. From experience in a previous job you’ll need something that will supply at least 10amps. Most of the 24-12v droppers show a current rating that is the maximum load the dropper is capable of supplying, but this is usually for short periods of time not for continous use at that quoted max.rating. As you have said you might wish to fit a sub woofer along with a new head unit this will place an extra load on the supply from the vehicle, and this is presuming you’re not going to fit an amplifier to power the sub, which would require a dropper even more substantial to power it! Tread carefully with the placement of the dropper as they are designed to dissipate heat as they operate, the smaller the dropper/more power you draw from it the hotter it will get. This is why I advise getting something that will supply more power than you’ll need, as the dropper will work more efficiently and will not heat up as much when in use. As an example the manufacturer dropper fitted to the 51plate DAF XF I once drove, which came with a cassette deck fitted, wasn’t powerful enough to power a CD headunit I replaced it with. The power to the headunit cut off every time I played a CD, the only remedy was to upgrade the dropper already fitted. Hope this info is of assistance…
if your thinking of powering an amp you will need thicker cable than those that will come from a dropper usually direct battery with decent sized cable 6-8mm or thereabouts can’t remember haven’t done a truck amp for a while but that will need to be just off of one battery that can drain them not easy on a truck to put sub amp in etc can be done but not straightforward sure someone will be along in a bit to tell u exactly how to do it
thanks for your information, ill look at a bigger dropper, yes ill be using a amp to power the sub, so in real terms look for a dropper is like looking for a amp better out put more it will give, and i treck quite far so it will be in constant use, and i got thick cables to run from everything to make it adiquite to run. ill look into the dropper more only thing ive not brought yet bar everything else, cheers guys
found this one, 20amp
ebay.co.uk/itm/20-AMP-Voltag … 2ec02a3b08
With it being a blaupunkt head unit, is it in a Renault by any chance? Make sure its not a 24 volt head unit as blaupunkt do make them.
DAFs also come with 24v Blaupunkt units from some time in 2007.
If swapping head units then double check that the standard unit isn’t a 24v one because it will probably be fitted with standard DIN type plug and if you plug an aftermarket 12v one in you will fry it.
Depending on the spec you may also find other functions wired through the power side of the DIN connector so you may need to replicate these if you don’t want to touch the original wiring. Also bear in mind you will ideally need a switched and permanent 12v supply for your new radio. The permanent is there to keep the units memory active whilst the ignition is switched off.
As for an external amp then these are ideally powered direct from the battery and as such a 12v item is no problem. Just make sure it’s connected to the batteries correctly. Also bear in Maine that any cabling needs to be run in such a way that the cab can be tilted without damaging it.
Cheers
Neilf
no i got a man tga xxl. thanks guys, much appreiciated. im going to split the live from the outside so when i do need to tilt the cab i can. take all of 10 secs. cheers for all the help. now got everything ordered