should be an inline fuse near the back covered near the hydraulic pump.
stobarttrucker:
should be an inline fuse near the back covered near the hydraulic pump.
The Megafuse.
Ken.
we had a tail lift go a few months back and that’s what it turned out to be,someone had run the battery flat using the tail lift and somehow that blew the inline fuse.
Just been told the engineer will be here in (wait for it…) 3 hours. What a shambles…
Don’t suppose any of you guys know of anyone who would be in the area and would fancy giving us a hand with another tail lift trailer back up against us?
It’s a long shot - you can’t blame a bloke for trying!
Quinny:
stobarttrucker:
should be an inline fuse near the back covered near the hydraulic pump.The Megafuse.
Ken.
Yep
Start here, at the battery end, testing with, either a bulb or some other in cab accessory and work backwards to the tail-lift.
What make?
Have you tried the switch inside the trailer, if there is one, to switch between buttons in the trailer and the ones outside??
If you’ve got some jump leads or can find somewhere to buy them you can drop the trailer and position the unit to put the power straight into the tail-lift if needs be.
Also is the a red emergency stop push in button anywhere?
I do tail-lift call outs and will try and have a look back in a bit.
Quinny:
it’s as though using the central locking remote was shutting the power off.
will do if you pressed the keyfob twice.
is there no firms around with a forklift,pull back the curtains and get em lifted off if possible
time to call it a night and hit the pub before closing tell the spanners to call you when its done.
best solution I can think of.
If its the same or similar to a caravan plug(7 pin plug), try bridge out the connections on the trailer and that should rule out a faulty controller. Usually theres only 3 out of the 7 pins used on the plug so just bridge 2 and see if you get anywhere. If nothing happens and youve tried every 2 pins together then theres a fault with that plug or the fuse is blown. You could also take the wires out the back of the plug and bridge them together that way but youll need to be careful you dont blow the fuse
How are you going to erect each counter once off the lorry?
StuSweeney:
If its the same or similar to a caravan plug(7 pin plug)
Nothing like it.
karl67:
StuSweeney:
If its the same or similar to a caravan plug(7 pin plug)Nothing like it.
What is the plug like? how many pins are in the connection? Bridging the wires should get it moving providing there isnt a broken wire further back or no power going to the plug. There should also be a solinoid on the hydraulic pump housing that could be frozen.
Thanks for the advice guys. Now been told another engineer on the way from Dundee and should be here within the hour.
Once the counters are down on their pallets they’ll be wheeled in and can be lifted into final location. They are half constructed of glass and very heavy so manually lifting them down 4ft when the pavement’s slippery with snow is a no-no these days - too risky.
StuSweeney:
karl67:
StuSweeney:
If its the same or similar to a caravan plug(7 pin plug)Nothing like it.
What is the plug like? how many pins are in the connection? Bridging the wires should get it moving providing there isnt a broken wire further back or no power going to the plug. There should also be a solinoid on the hydraulic pump housing that could be frozen.
I like your thinking but the chances of none of the functions working - making a noise - are slim due to broken wires…
I’m with dozy on the cowbell or switch fault really.
If you’ve got a multi meter or some wires and a 24v bulb, you can test if the cowbell’s working quite easily - disconnect it from the trailer and test the trailer end of the lead.
Try the switch in the internal position and see if the inside buttons work, the switch might just have gone faulty?
If it’s underslung, does it have 1 of those ‘safety’ buttons that you hold when trying to do anything, if so, that might be gone, but I think the remote over-rides that? Unless it’s those stupid foot controls 
The hydraulic pump will be driven by a starter motor. So if you know how to SAFELY short the small solenoid terminal to the solenoid power terminal then if there is power at that point then the motor and pump will operate. With luck a second person may then well be able to work the up and down buttons.
Be careful where anyone stands.
This is better than Trucks n Trailers, edge of my seat, what’s the latest ■■ 
Did you get it sorted? What was the problem?
Quinny:
Happened to me today.Used the central locking remote control on the 62 plate Renault Premium, plugged in the tailift (Anderson lead.) and the tailift wouldn’t work. Opened the door manually, and it’s as though using the central locking remote was shutting the power off.
Strange.
Ken.
Double clicking the remote isolates the batteries on renaults. You will hear a big clunking noise from the battery compartment when you do it. Thats also the way to get your radio working when it plays up.
Comeon…wots happening