Fridge Trailer Controls.

From time to time, somebody asks how to use the controls of a fridge trailer, so while I’ve got 10 minutes I’ll try to give a brief overview. If I miss anything others can add to it.

This is a Carrier fridge, but they are all broadly similar.

The switch on the bottom right turns it on and off. When you turn it on it will self-check. This takes about 30 seconds. The warning buzzer will sound for 5 seconds and then the fridge motor will start.

The switch above that says engine/standby. This is set to “engine” when in normal use, and to “standby” when it is running on a plug-in, e.g. on a ferry.

The figure on the left, -26 is what it is set at. The figure on the right, -23.6 is what the box temperature actually is at the time.

To alter the set temperature, use the green/blue up and down arrows, this will change the figure on the left. When you reach the desired temperature, push the = button beneath the arrows and the display will briefly show “setpoint changed”.

There is a stop/start- continuous button. This broadly does what it says, changes the operating mode. Some loads need to be on continuous running, mostly delicate fruits, otherwise I generally set it to stop/start, which saves fuel. You can see from the green LED that it is currently set to stop/start.

There is a “manual defrost” button, although you don’t normally need to use that as it auto-defrosts as part of the running cycle.

The red button brings up any fault codes although generally you don’t need to use this. In the picture above, you can see “Status OK” on the display, this is what it should read if working properly.

Hope this is of help to someone, perhaps when the question next gets asked the questioner can be directed towards this thread, and if anyone wants to add anything I’ve missed, feel free.

What an excellent post! This is the true value of this forum. No-one ever showed me how to use a fridge. I just had to figure it out. But, TBH, it was no-where near as complicated as the one shown in the OP.

Thanks for taking the time and trouble to post.

Pete S :laughing: :laughing:

Brilliant, thanks Harry.

One quick question - if running on an external power source, does the trailer normally come with a power lead already fitted somewhere, or is this something that needs to be carried in addition like a tail-lift lead?

Thanks
Gary

The lead will be supplied by the company providing the power source.

scaniason:
Brilliant, thanks Harry.

One quick question - if running on an external power source, does the trailer normally come with a power lead already fitted somewhere, or is this something that needs to be carried in addition like a tail-lift lead?

Thanks
Gary

If your are using an external power source make sure you unplug it and switch the fridge on before driving off!! It’s also worth waiting a moment to make sure the fridge is running correctly before you drive off. If your travelling down the road and things go quiet for a while it might be worth pulling over and making sure its running correctly, same goes for if you park up for the night…some drivers have been known to turn them off!

Regards SB

Means I can apply for Fridge work and not not turn up and look like a right ■■■■ when I make a balls up and cook their food :smiley:

Excellent post Harry, should be pinned/stickied.

Sam Millar:
Means I can apply for Fridge work and not not turn up and look like a right [zb] when I make a balls up and cook their food :smiley:

I have known somebody to set the fridge to +25 instead of -25 with a load of ice cream on, which wasn’t a pretty sight after 24 hours in the trailer. :wink:

Harry Monk:

Sam Millar:
Means I can apply for Fridge work and not not turn up and look like a right [zb] when I make a balls up and cook their food :smiley:

I have known somebody to set the fridge to +25 instead of -25 with a load of ice cream on, which wasn’t a pretty sight after 24 hours in the trailer. :wink:

Wasn’t Fiona Soltysiak was it? haha I joke. :slight_smile:

Good post!

What about two compartment fridges?
Which is compartment 1 and which is 2?
I have come across fridges that are split down the middle lengthwise and others that have a movable partition with a chiller at the front and one at the rear.

Harry Monk:
From time to time, somebody asks how to use the controls of a fridge trailer, so while I’ve got 10 minutes I’ll try to give a brief overview. If I miss anything others can add to it.

Hi Harry,

What a great post!!

Following Peter and Sam’s replies, I’ve copied your OP into the FAQ forum and I’ll add any useful additions that might appear.

:arrow_right: Fridge Trailer Controls - FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (READ ONLY FORUM) - Trucknet UK

mkb600:
Good post!

What about two compartment fridges?
Which is compartment 1 and which is 2?
I have come across fridges that are split down the middle lengthwise and others that have a movable partition with a chiller at the front and one at the rear.

Comp 1 is the front end or left channel if split length ways.

The only thing i would add is if parking overnight at services try to park away from unfridge drivers, they get irate at the fridge barstewards. Doesnt bother me at all, i sleep like a log anywhere.

Also at night, i used to set it to continuous running, so you could hear if anyone turns it off, you’d be surprised how it wakes you up when the noise stops that you’ve had droning in your ears for the last 12 hours!

Is their a fridge fuel gauge on the tank? Or where would you locate how much fuel is in it?

Should a tank always be full before a days work or do the fridges not use a great deal from the tank?

There is normally a gauge on the tank but after about 6 months they are as much use as ■■■■ on a fish, you can notmally sine a torch in and see, as for how long a tank last depends on a lot of factors like how hard the motor is working (what temp its set to, how full the trailer is, what temp the load was when loaded) and also how good the trailer is, if the seals are knackered the fridge will be running like linford if they are good it wont need as much running.

A tank used to last me about 3 days on constant but i had a semi decent trailer with good seals and was mainly just chilled to +2/4

MrMartyn1984:
Is their a fridge fuel gauge on the tank? Or where would you locate how much fuel is in it?

Should a tank always be full before a days work or do the fridges not use a great deal from the tank?

There will be a small fuel gauge on one side of the tank, which is beneath the trailer, usually just behind the landing legs but sometimes at the rear of the trailer. These gauges don’t require an electrical supply, they work purely mechanically on a float in the tank.

However, you should be aware that these gauges are notoriously unreliable.

The fridge fuel tank normally has two caps, one on either side, so you can fill it up regardless of what side the diesel pump is.

Some larger firms insist on tanks being brimmed every time they return to the yard, but a full fridge tank will normally last for a week on stop/start deep-frozen work, less if it is set to constant.

All good info for me,As i’m starting a new job on the fridges

One question,What to you do with the 2 or 3 load bars that you need to secure the load,when you are being loaded? will the loaders take them out then chuck them back in after loading,or do they want an empty floor,?
Once your backed on the bay,you don’t usually have access to get in to see what they want,

My new boss,says his fridges will run for a few weeks on stop start chilled,

I believe i will be running out of sandycroft and paramount foods at deeside,Cant wait,hopefully beats the shunting iv’e been doing for the last 5 years,

The hardest part for me,will be finding a place to park without upsetting the neighbours,and hopefully getting some sleep lol

regards
tonyb

tonyb70:
All good info for me,As i’m starting a new job on the fridges

One question,What to you do with the 2 or 3 load bars that you need to secure the load,when you are being loaded? will the loaders take them out then chuck them back in after loading,or do they want an empty floor,?

tonyb

Don’t ever trust the loaders to put the bars back in. Reverse towards the bay, stop about six feet short of it, open the doors and put the bars underneath the trailer. After loading, pull forward by six feet, put the load bars into place and shut the doors.

tonyb70:
The hardest part for me,will be finding a place to park without upsetting the neighbours,and hopefully getting some sleep lol

It’s difficult to sleep for the first few weeks on fridge work, it’s like trying to go to sleep at home with a London taxi in the bedroom. But you do get used to it and eventually don’t notice it. Many loads can stand the fridge motor being turned off at night.

Harry Monk:

tonyb70:
All good info for me,As i’m starting a new job on the fridges

One question,What to you do with the 2 or 3 load bars that you need to secure the load,when you are being loaded? will the loaders take them out then chuck them back in after loading,or do they want an empty floor,?

tonyb

Don’t ever trust the loaders to put the bars back in. Reverse towards the bay, stop about six feet short of it, open the doors and put the bars underneath the trailer. After loading, pull forward by six feet, put the load bars into place and shut the doors.

tonyb70:
The hardest part for me,will be finding a place to park without upsetting the neighbours,and hopefully getting some sleep lol

It’s difficult to sleep for the first few weeks on fridge work, it’s like trying to go to sleep at home with a London taxi in the bedroom. But you do get used to it and eventually don’t notice it. Many loads can stand the fridge motor being turned off at night.

Thanks harry

I want to do a good job for the boss,So i want to get it right first time,
I believe most of the loads are chilled,But i wouldnt turn it off unless it was cold enough outside,I wouldnt want to poison anyone,
Its all good kit,so the seals should be ok,
Ive got some earplugs from when i was on nights and sleeping in the day,so hopefully they reduce the hum a bit,

regards
tonyb