I’ve been working with fridges for a while now but all with the split partition doors that supermarkets use. Started running with a full size partition door this week elsewhere. Apart from being much heavier and awkward to move along the trailer, I’m finding that when I try to lock it in the up position, it’s very very stiff and needs forced all the way in. Being a gigantic 5’8" this is causing me some problems. I find that I can’t get it all the way up even when standing on something. Should doors be this tight to the side of the trailer that it causes this issue? I’ve resorted to running with the door down even if running at same temp and just having both compartments set to the same temperature.
Keen to hear if anyone has had any similar issues and any hints or tips with this.
But give planners flexibilty with loads. There are certainly some partitions that are better at moving than others. It’s a lottery and depends on the size of the partition (some of them are really thick others are much thinner) I found on Chereau trailers they were really easy to move and to fold up and down. Alternatively, Schmitz cargobull reefers were a nightmare. I really can’t give you a guide for every trailer out there, like I said, it’s a lottery.
As long as your temperatures are good at the delivery point, carry on setting two temperatures and leaving the wall in place. As you’ve found out, that’s the easy way. For those really stubborn ones that have to go up, get a stack of blues to stand on (if you can’t do that, stand on the load lock bars is a last resort) and ask someone to give you a hand.
I too have pulled a lot of fridges, including those with split temperatures…some are easy, others are not, and tend not to get serviced, i resorted to trying them before picking it up, if it was difficult, i reported it, and refused to take it out unless looked at…i mean, why should one break his back for somebody elses problem.
You do not need to run a split trailer on two motors if the door is up and the temp is the same, just run it at one temperature…if carrying frozen, that really need to go in the front compartment, as the rear one will struggle to maintain temperature if at all…only really good for + 2/3/4 ( fruit for eg )
truckyboy:
if carrying frozen, that really need to go in the front compartment, as the rear one will struggle to maintain temperature if at all…only really good for + 2/3/4 ( fruit for eg )
truckyboy:
if carrying frozen, that really need to go in the front compartment, as the rear one will struggle to maintain temperature if at all…only really good for + 2/3/4 ( fruit for eg )
+1
Yes if we have a split load of frozen it’ll always be up front.
If you are struggling to lock the door to the roof use a gas bar, put the bar upright under the door release it and it will push the door up far enough to lock, or if you don’t have a gas bar then wedging a normal load bar under it until it locks the door in place also works
Thanks for the replies guys. Not running any frozen so no worries about needing a crowbar! Just +14 and +2. Discovered last night that 3 pallets is the ideal height for me to get the door locked up if I stand on them. Not ideal but a workaround at least. I was expecting more of a click as it locks in place but not getting much. Definitely locks though as it clunks when I unlock it.
Maybe a stupid question, but I can’t think why there is a vent in the door that can be opened. What’s the point if the door is designed to allow split temps?
kjw21:
Stand to be corrected but it’s to aid it moving by lessening the vacuum effect by allowing air to vent.
Correct .
And an engineer years ago told us that running dual temp at the same time and temp causes problems so if only running 1 temp only have the front chiller running